J 



THE ONE MAID 
COOKERY BOOK 



THE ONE MAID 
BOOK OF COOKERY 

Some 'Press Opinions 

Ladies' Field. — "This is such an excellent little 
book that I cannot forbear mentioning it here." 

Field. — "Will be welcomed alike by the beginner 
and those of more mature experience." 

Spectator. — *'*The One Maid Book of Cookery' 
gives, besides many well-thought-out receipts, some 
excellent advice on the art of housekeeping." 

Pall Mall Gazette. — "Now that so many people 
live in flats, and have only accommodation for one maid, 
a * One Maid Book of Cookery ' is a good idea." 

World. — " No mere collection of recipes, but a real 
culinary manual which ought to enable any maid-of-all- 
work to turn out decently-cooked dishes, and any 
housewife with but one servant to provide agreeable 
menus for the most exacting of * beasts.' " 

New Statesman. — "A book by whose aid any 
intelligent person, however inexperienced, should be 
able to cook a simple dinner successfully. It contains 
hints concerning shopping and the general management 
of a kitchen which beginners will find extremely useful." 

Daily Graphic. — " For the young housewife who has 
to carry out her domestic duties in a small house, and 
for the business girl in a flat with but one maid to assist, 
a useful cookery book has been published which will 
make a useful addition to the culinary library." 



THE ONE MAID 
COOKERY BOOK 



BY MISTRESS 
A. E. CONGREVE 
FIRST-CLASS DIPLOMEE 



E. P. BUTTON AND COMPANY 
68i FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK 









WYMAS AKD SONS LTD., PRINTERS, fcOMDON AND ReABING, ENGLAND. 



JO 






FOREWORD 



The conditions of living are fast changing, the 
number of gentle people living in small houses and 
flats run with One Maid, or with no maid at all is 
rapidly increasing. The One Maid Book of Cookerv 
is specially written with a view to these modern 
conditions. It is a book of Cookery (not a book of 
recipes) and as such must be read if to be of any real 
use. It is strongly urged that the chief methods of 
cookery together with their principles be mastered 
before practical work is started. Before using a 
recipe the notes at the commencement of the partic- 
ular chapter should be carefully studied. Obviously 
it is impossible to repeat minute instructions with 
each recipe. The Index should be referred to in 
any difficulty. It is hoped that the One Maid Book 
of Cookery (aptly named by its publisher) may help 
in the attainment of that 'peace of mind and har- 
mony within* to which all aspire. 

A. E. CONGREVE. 

Hove, 1913. 



CONTENTS 



PAOB 



THE ART OF COOKERY 9 

THE ART OF CATERING 12 

THE ART OF SHOPPING 15 

THE KITCHEN AND UTENSILS 19 

THE SCULLERY AND WASHING UP . . . . 22 

THE STORE CUPBOARD 25 

THE LARDER 27 

COOKERY METHODS AND THEIR PRINCIPLES . 28 

SOUPS 39 

FISH 49 

MEAT 61 

POULTRY AND GAME 77 

VEGETABLES 85 

SALADS .100 

SAUCES, GRAVIES, FORCEMEATS . . . .106 
SAVOURY DISHES AND SAVOURIES . . . .115 
EGGS .......... 122 

SWEET DISI-IES 128 

PASTRIES, PIES, PUDDINGS 147 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 



BREAD AND ROLLS •164 

CAKES 170 

THE LARDER AND SCRAPS 184 

DRINKS 200 

JAMS AND JELLIES 204 

TABLE OF CONTENTS .211 




: :the one maid: : 
book of cookery 

THE ART OF COOKERY 

OOKERY is the art of preparing food for 
use by the aid of heat, or rendering it palat- 
able and easy to digest, the aim being to 
get the maximum of nutriment and flavour out 
of the material available. With this end in 
view, methods of cookery have been evolved which 
require to be known and understood, together with 
the principles on which they are based, otherwise 
much of the nourishment and value of food is 
wasted, and it may become a fruitful source of 
digestive trouble. 

An Eastern writer lately called attention to the 
fact that natives of so many countries cook excel- 
lently without having had any training. Ask them 
how they cook, and they will answer with their 
own proverb *0n each occasion use your sense 
accordingly.' In this country there are some born 
cooks, but they are few and far between. It is 
probable that the overloading of the brain with 
book-learning knocks out much of what we call 
common sense. We have Schools of Cookery and 

9 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Books of Cookery to help the large number of 
mistresses and maids who find themselves in the 
position of having to run a house in complete 
ignorance of the principles of Domestic Economy. 
Only practice and experience will make a cook, 
though books and lessons will help. Much can be 
learnt by studying physiology (particularly the 
processes of digestion and assimilation), the chem- 
istry of Food and Food Values, and by learning the 
several methods and principles of cookery. With 
some knowledge and common sense practical work 
soon becomes easy. 

In cookery, method is important and there is a 
reason why for everything. Recipes are of little 
value without a knowledge of how to work them, 
what ingredients can be omitted without spoiling 
the result, and what substitutes can be used. Cook- 
ery is not an exact science, many recipes cannot 
be accurately written. For instance, * take two 
onions' : an onion may weigh a pound or an ounce. 
What size of onion is to be used? The answer is 
'on each occasion use your sense accordingly.' 

The importance of the subject of Food and its 
preparation is beyond question : standing as it 
does for health, efficiency and happiness, or the 
reverse. 'Show me what you eat, and I will tell 
you what you are.* Where every home contains a 
kitchen, it is unpardonable that girls of all classes 
should not be able to cook, and incredible that 
anyone should put up with bad or badly prepared 
food. The neglect of the Domestic x\rts can only 
be accounted for by the fact that, generally speak- 

10 



THE ART OF COOKERY 

ing, their importance and interest are not recog- 
nised. Here I will plead for the fair treatment of 
good food. Meals should be given a certain dignity 
and due time allowed for their enjoyment. The 
cook should not be blamed for troubles that arise 
from insufficient and hurried mastication, or for 
dishes spoilt through unpunctuality. It is well to 
remember, moreover, that adverse criticism always 
reaches the kitchen. Cooks are human, and enjoy 
praise and appreciation when deserved as much as 
anyone else. Food is fuel for the body, providing 
material for building, repairing, and warming. To 
eat is a necessity and a duty, it should also be a 
pleasure. Without being a 'gourmand' it is well to 
be a * gourmet,' to possess both knowledge and 
palate to enjoy and encourage the production of 
good food. 

Shopping, housekeeping, and cooking, are games 
that are beloved in childhood. Later on the game 
becomes a serious occupation, enjoyable or not 
according to the skill with which it is played- 



II 



THE ART OF CATERING 

THE art of catering is to provide, with due 
regard to efficiency and health, the dailj; 
food of a household. It is essentia] 
that it should be well chosen, well cooked, and 
well served and no thought or trouble is wasted 
which accomplishes this. Complaints should be 
listened to and investigated, when justified the 
housekeeper should accept the blame. Monotony 
should be avoided, there is no excuse for it in 
this country. When shops are easy of access 
all perishable stuff should be bought in small 
quantities, so that there may be fresh food daily, 
and few or no scraps to use up. Each day's food 
should be complete and harmonious in itself. If 
lunch has been poor, dinner must make up for it; 
if meat be scanty, a good soup, savoury dish or 
fish shquld be served at the same meal; if uninter- 
esting, a choice vegetable should accompany it. If 
salt bacon has been the breakfast dish, avoid salt 
meat for dinner, if pastry has been served at lunch 
avoid a pie for dinner. If the soup be a white one 
the fish following it should be browned ; if the meat 
be boiled, a blancmange should not follow it. One 
rich dish will be enjoyed, two may produce discom- 
fort. Roast pork would tax the digestion if served 
after scolloped lobster. Few of us would deliber- 

12 



THE ART OF CATERING 

ately eat half a dozen eggs in a day, but in the form 
of custards, souffles, omelettes, that number may 
easily be exceeded. The butter and flour founda- 
tion termed a Roux, white or brown (see Sauces) 
may be unduly repeated in one meal; in a thick 
soup, in sauces, with fish, entree, vegetables, fowl; 
in souffles and savouries. 

Where meat is omitted from a menu, eggs, milk, 
butter or cheese (the most valuable of animal foods) 
will make good the deficiency; or peas and beans, 
fresh or dried (the most valuable of vegetable foods) 
may be substituted. 

In cold weather food of a warming character 
(that is containing fat, sugars and starch) should 
be served, hot if possible; cocoa, oatmeal, porridge 
with cream, hot thick soups and stews, suet pud- 
dings are all typical cold-weather foods. On the 
other hand in warm weather food should be light; 
clear soups, fish, poultry, eggs, junkets, vegetables, 
salads and much fruit. A hurried meal should 
always be light and short, one that is easily eaten 
and digested. 

Fruit is a most valuable and necessary food, it is 
frequently advisable to substitute it for pudding, 
where both cannot be provided. 

Where one pair of hands does the work of a house 
or flat the catering must be carefully planned, so 
that sufficient time is allowed for good cooking; 
and no menus should be drawn up which cannot be 
successfully carried out. (It is well to remembei 
that well cooked food is an essential, the polishing 
of silver a non-essential.) 

13 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Breakfast and lunch should be simple, as time is 
valuable in the mornings. A stew can be prepared 
early and practically cooks itself; potatoes can be 
roasted in their skins, saving the amount of time 
wasted and nourishment lost by peeling them 
before cooking. A fish or a chop is grilled in a 
few minutes. Earthenware and fireproof cooking 
utensils and dishes are invaluable; in them food is 
excellently and easily cooked and they may be put 
straight on the table thus avoiding dishing up : 
also a hot dinner is easily managed even on the 
weekly 'evening out.* Soup in a marmite, stew in 
a casserole, a French pie, baked fish, are among the 
dishes which may be kept hot without spoiling over 
gentle heat, with an asbestos mat under to prevent 
burning. It is neither possible nor practicable to 
arrange the daily food of unknown households; 
tastes differ, means, material available and other 
conditions vary. It is often difficult to cater when 
one's view is limited to the larder, whereas ideas 
and inspirations come readily with the sight of 
well-furnished shops. The table of contents of the 
One Maid Cookery Book has been carefully com- 
piled with the view of helping the young house- 
keeper to plan food for the day, and the chapter 
entitled 'The Larder and Scraps* gives many reci- 
pes for the using up of left-overs. 



14 



THE ART OF SHOPPING 

THE art of shopping is to get the best 
possible value for the sraallest possible 
expenditure. It is always advisable that 
a housekeeper should personally choose the daily 
food ; where means are limited it is absolutely 
essential. Experience only can teach how to 
recognise quality and condition, to determine the 
quantity of food required and to know what prices 
are reasonable. 

With food the golden rule is to buy the best of 
everything, 'the best' meaning quality, not size or 
fashion. It is sometimes the most expensive; but 
always the most economical in use ; there is more 
value and satisfaction in a small quantity of good 
material than in a large quantity of poor quality. 
Who would hesitate between one new laid egg and 
two doubtful eggs? All food should be fresh, it is 
then palatable, wholesome and nourishing, and less 
of it is required. Shopkeepers are to blame in 
allowing so much good material to deteriorate and 
waste ; all perishable goods should be renewed daily, 
since dangerous chemical changes rapidly take place 
in many foods through being kept in stock. What 
is good to-day may be indigestible to-morrow and 
poisonous the day after. 'The stomach is lord of 
the body,* and it does not pay to cheat him. 

15 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Eggs must always be fresh, the theory that stale 
eggs may be used for cooking is both inexplicable 
and dangerous. An egg held up before a lighted 
candle should appear clear if fresh. Appearance 
and smell will tell even the inexperienced when an 
opened egg is stale. 

Butter for all purposes must be pure. Cooking 
butter, so called, contains a large proportion of 
water and salt, and often has a very strong and 
objectionable flavour. An ounce of pure butter 
gives a better result than an ounce and a half of 
cooking butter, and the cost is the same. Where a 
substitute is wanted dripping, lard or any vegetable 
fat should be used. Butter should be carefully 
and speedily carried home, and after removing 
from the paper, should be put into the lardeif. 
Butter once softened by the sun or kitchen heat 
will be greasy and will never harden properly. 

Fish rapidly deteriorates. The choice should be 
of that which is in season and in abundance and 
consequently in the best condition. A fresh fish is 
stiS, the skin, eyes and gills are bright, and the 
smell not unpleasant. 

Meat should be most carefully chosen. Where 
possible a butcher should be selected who uses a 
glass screen to keep the road dust off the meat ; it 
should be explained to him, where the household is 
small, that the quantities purchased will be small, 
but that the best qualit}'- only will be required. 
The eye can be trained to recognise qualit}?- in meat 
by comparing the contents of a first-class shop with 
those of an inferior one. Beef should be firm, the 

i6 



THE ART OF SHOPPING 

lean a bright red and in the best meat is inter- 
grained with fat, the fat a creamy colour. Mutton 
should be firm, the lean darker than beef, the fat 
whiter and harder. Lamb, an immature meat, is 
lighter in colour than mutton. Veal, also an imma- 
ture meat, should be very light in colour, as it is 
bled, and must be small. Pork should be dairy fed, 
small, firm, and with a thin skin. Bacon of good 
quality is firm, the fat a clean white, the lean a 
good red. In the chapter on Meat, joints and 
pieces suitable for a small family are given. 

A chicken should have a smooth skin ; vv-hen the 
bird is young the end of the breast bone is gristle 
and is easily bent. Game that is tainted should 
never be purchased. A young rabbit has soft ears 
and sharp claws, the inside is a bright pink. 

Root vegetables, such as potatoes, carrots, onions 
at their best when young and freshly dug, may be 
bought in quantities and kept in a wire vegetable 
stand, they should always be firm : Green vege- 
tables should be fresh and crisp. Fruit, ripe and 
sound, is an important item in the day's cater- 
ing. Unripe fruit is usually bought for cooking. 
Bruised fruit is dear at any price, the damaged 
parts are waste and the remainder is often unwhole- 
some. Soft fruits, such as pears, greengages, med- 
lars, and all berries should be carried home in 
baskets or trays, and not in paper bags. The best 
methods of growing, packing and delivering are 
encouraged by purchasers insisting on all fruit 
being sound and in good condition. 

Dried fruits are at their best at the beginning 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

of the winter season, especially dates, figs, and 
raisins. 

In buying groceries it is well to examine the 
different sugars, rices, &c., kept in stock, and to 
smell the various teas and coffees; in fact, the 
housekeeper should educate herself to recognise thfi 
many qualities and varieties instead of choosing by 
price alone. The housekeeper should always aim 
at avoiding monotony and be constantly on the 
lookout for novelties. New biscuits, jams, pickles, 
are frequently put on the market. 

Bread. There are many different kinds of bread, 
and a change is always welcome. Wholemeal and 
brown bread should be often on the table. 



i8 



THE KITCHEN AND UTENSILS 

THE kitchen should be arranged with due 
regard to convenience, and ease in keep- 
ing clean. It should have good fitted 
cupboards and shelves; the floor should be cov- 
ered with linoleum, the walls with a light wash- 
able distemper, or varnished paper. A wash- 
ing curtain should be adopted in preference to 
a blind as it takes off less light. A rod of light 
brass should be fixed about six inches below the 
top of the window, so that steam and smell mav 
escape even when the curtain is drawn. In smoky 
towns a strip of fine wire gauze should be fitted at 
the top of the window frame to keep out smuts. 
iThe table should be of a convenient height, covered 
with a light linoleum, or American cloth. Both 
table and chairs should be fitted with Domes of 
Silence, for easy moving. The dresser should be 
stained, varnished or painted. Soft white wood is 
not easy to keep clean, or to dry. 

The Stove. A stove for cooking should be placed 
in a convenient position for light, and should 
stand out from the wall. It is wise to learn the 
construction and working of the stove one has to 
use. Where gas is available a cooker should be 
hired from the local gas company. One of the 
latest improvements is a plate-rack with an enamel- 

19 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

led back which is fixed on the cooker. No one 
having used gas for cooking would willingly revert 
to other methods. Gas is always ready, clean and 
economical, giving and maintaining any degree of 
heat required. There is no stoking and more time 
and thought can be given to cooking. To keep a 
stove clean, it should alv/ays be rubbed over with 
soft paper after using. (A bag to hold paper should 
hang in a convenient place in every kitchen). The 
burners should be regularly brushed and kept clear, 
the stove occasionally black-leaded, the steels kept 
bright with emery paper. 

The following list of kitchen furnishings may be 
taken as suggestions only. Good and sufficient 
utensils must be provided if good work is expected. 
Small and inexpensive tools aiming at economy of 
labour are constantly invented. 

Wood. A Chopping Board, Pastry Board, Hair 
Sieve, Wire Sieve, Rolling Pin, Stand lor t!,^gs, 
small Spoons, Pastry Brush, Vegetable Brush, 
Flat Wire Brush, Scrubbing Brush, String Mop, 
Pot Brush. 

Enamel. Pint, Half Pint, Gill Measures, Bath 

for Washing Up, Basins, Pail, Colander, Sink 
Basket, Spice Box, Spoons, Flour Tin, Tins for 
Groceries. 

China. Jugs, Basins, Coffee Jug and Milk Jug, 
Pie Dish, Fireproof China Oval Dishes, Souffle 
Dish, and small Cups, a French Pie Dish, Glass 
Lemon Squeezer. 

Metal. A Wire Stand for Vegetables, Wire 
Frying Spoon, Egg Whisk, Fat Strainer, Gravy 

20 



THE KITCHEN AND UTENSILS 

Strainer, Flour Sifter, Grater, Potato Masher, 
Skewers, Apple Corer, Tin Opener, Corkscrew, 
Pastry Cutters, Cake Tins, flat Tins with holes 
for little Cakes, Baking Tins, Yorkshire Pudding 
Tin, Patty Tins, Cook's Knives (one medium, one 
small). Kitchen Knives and Forks, Spatula (Palette 
Knife), Knife Tray, Medium Basting Spoon, 
Table Spoon, Tea Spoons, Knife Sharpener, flat 
Irons, Iron Stand and Slipper, Asbestos Mats and 
Kettle Holder, Kettles, a Steel or other light Sauce- 
pan with a steamer to fit. An unlined Steel Stew- 
pan for frying', with a frying basket to fit. A Stand 
for Saucepans. 

Earthenware. Baking Dishes, Casseroles, Mar- 
mites, a Devil (for Roasting Potatoes), Bread Pan. 
Scales, a Looking Glass, a reliable Clock. 



31 



THE SCULLERY AND WASHING-UP 

THE art in washing-up is to carry it out 
effectively in a cleanly and orderly manner, 
with the minimum of labour. The follow- 
ing articles are required : — 

An enamel bath or basin, some soda, boiling 

water. 
A basin with cold water for rinsing. 
A string mop, as hands should never go into 

soda-water and the water can thus be really 

boiling. 
A draining-board, usually fastened at the side of 

the sink. 
A plate rack : small racks to stand are now made 

in wood, and may be folded-up when not in use ; 

these will take small plates, saucers, cups, etc., 

and save much drying. 
A soft linen cloth for wiping and polishing 

glass. 
A. heavy linen towel for drying china, etc. ; strong 

coarse huckaback is the best and most econo- 
mical in use; when washing and rinsing are 

well done there are few dirty cloths. 
A leather for polishing silver : if silver is kept 

well washed, and rubbed, cleaning is not often 

required. 
A knife cleaner : small and simple ones are now 

22 



THE SCULLERY AND WASHING-UP 

to be had ; knives are easily cleaned if done at 
once. 

A thick apron ; a leather one is a good investment. 

The sleeves should be well tucked-up. Every- 
thing should be arranged neatly and the cleanest 
things washed first, such as glasses, these often 
require only a rinse, dry and polish. Then silver : 
wipe spoons and forks with soft paper, wash, rinse, 
drain, dry and polish. Next cups and saucers, 
dishes and plates; scrape off all pieces, and when 
greasy wipe them over with paper. All china is 
washed with the mop, then rinsed, drained, dried 
and polished. There is an art in drying, a final 
light rub gives a polish to china. 

Knives are wiped with soft paper, dipped in the 
soda-water, rinsed and drained. They clean easily 
when damp, and require careful rubbing afterwards 
in order to remove all powder. Barthenware pans 
are wiped out with paper; then washed with a pot 
brush, rinsed and turned over to dry. To clean 
metal pans, first wipe them out, if necessary boil up 
with water and soda, then use a pot brush or flat 
wire brush. This latter is a most effective cleaner, 
it must be used flat, and cleans both the outside 
and inside of pans and kettles. 

It is not practical to keep utensils that are in 
daily use in a high state of polish. Where labour 
is limited and time valuable, an array of 'kitchen 
gods' on the mantelpiece is not to be encouraged. 
Those tins that are always used greased, such as 
cake tins, should be well rubbed with soft paper 
and not washed or polished. Wooden articles, 

23 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

'^oards, spoons, etc., should if possible dry in the 
open air. They must never be put away damp. 

The Sink. There should always be a sink basket 
for pieces. If all dirty water is poured through 
this, there is no fear of a stoppage in the pipe. A 
sink cleaner (a small flat shovel) is also useful. 
Boiling water should be poured down the pipe once 
a day, but where paper is used as suggested for 
rubbing over plates and dishes there is little grease 
left in the sink. Taps should be fitted with anti- 
splash nozzles. 



24 



A 



THE STORE CUPBOARD 

GOOD store Cupboard is a necessity. It 
should be well stocked at the start of 
house-keeping, and can then be kept up 
at a small weekly expenditure. A slate and pencil 
should hang in the cupboard, and a note be made of 
anything exhausted. There should be tins or jars 
to hold the groceries. 

The following list must be taken as suggestive 
only, no two households have the same require- 
ments. 
Tea, Coffee, Cocoa. Sugars : loaf, raw, castor. 
Flour, Cornflour, Paisley Flour, Baking powder, 
Maccaroni, Spaghetti, Vermicelli, Italian Paste. 
Sago, Tapioca, Rice, Patna Rice, Pearl Barley, 

Oatmeal, Groats. 
Table Salt (jar or tin), Table Salt (id packet) for 
cooking. Mustard, Salad Oil, Malt Vinegar, 
Tarragon Vinegar, Chutney. Pickles, Pepper 
(white or black). Coralline Pepper, Cayenne, 
Peppercorns, Nutmegs, Cloves, Ginger, Carra- 
ways. Cinnamon. 
Sauces : Anchovy, Tomato, Worcester, Mush- 
room. 
Glaze (glass jar), Lemco, Marmite, Curry Pow- 
der, Jam. 
Essences : Lemon, Vanilla, Cherry, Raspberry, 

25 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Carmine, Rennet tablets, Raisins, Currants, 
vSul tanas, Mixed Peel. 

Almonds, Coconut, Walnuts, Pistache kernels. 

Glace Cherries, Angelica, Violets, Roseleaves. 

Dried Butter Beans, Haricot Beans, Peas. 

Biscuits (in 5^ lb. packets) : sweet, plain, savoury. 

Soda, Soaps, Matches, Candles, Tapers, Knife 
Powder, Whitening, Ammonia (household), 
Emery, Blacklead, Blacking, Ronuk, Brass 
Polish, Stout Kitchen Paper. 

Dish Papers, Swabs, Housemaid's Gloves, Lea- 
ther. 

The following should be kept in the larder : — 

Butter, Lard, Suet (block), Bacon, Eggs. 

Tinned Lunch Tongue, Soup, Sardines, Potted 
Meat, Fruits, and Golden Syrup. 



26 



THE LARDER 

THE Larder, or Safe for the keeping of food, 
should be so placed that fresh air circulates 
freely through, the windows fitted with 
fine wire gauze, and when necessary lined with 
white muslin, which is easily removed for washing. 
The danger of flies as carriers of germs is now well 
understood, and they must be kept out of the larder. 
Walls should be lime-washed, or have a varnished 
paper. The floor should be tiled, or if of wood, 
covered with linoleum, the shelves covered with 
white American cloth, or linoleum, both easily 
wiped over. 

Milk should be kept in jugs or basins, with alu- 
minium or muslin covers. Butter should be kept 
in a cooler, the water renewed daily. Eggs should 
be kept on a wooden stand. Fine wire gauze dish 
covers should be provided for meat, a crock or 
other pan for bread (to be emptied regularly) and a 
wire stand for vegetables. 

The contents of the larder should all be seen and 
smelt daily, and nothing kept that has a suspicion 
• of taint. An important point is that nothing 
should be put away in the larder while hot. 



27 



COOKERY METHODS AND THEIR 
PRINCIPLES 

THE chief methods used in cookery are : — 
Roasting, Grilling, Boiling, Steaming, 
Stewing, Braising, Frying, and Baking. 
With most of these methods the principle is 
the same, namely, to keep in the juices and 
goodness of what is being cooked. With that 
object in view the procedure is the same with 
each method; to expose at once to great heat in 
order to scorch the outside. In most cases the heat 
is reduced after about ten minutes, so as to avoid 
cooking too quickly and hardening throughout. 
Stev/ing is a method always used where food is 
tough; the long, slow cooking softens hard fibres, 
the juices lost from the meat are found in the 
gravy. In Stock-making, the principle is. to draw 
out the juices, etc., from meat and bones, first by 
soaking in cold water, then by gradually warming 
up and digesting. 

Roasting. — Properly speaking this is cooking 
in front of a fire, the meat hanging on a hook. 
Fires are now much reduced in size, ovens (those 
of Gas Cookers especially) well ventilated, and, with 
e^T&y roasting in the oven is excellently done. With 
these advantages, less heat is necessary, the meat 
requires less basting, and loses less in weight. In 

28 



COOKERY METHODS AND PRINCIPLES 

either case the principle is the same, the meat is 
exposed to great heat for the first ten minutes, m 
order to harden the albumen on the outside, to 
close the pores, to form a skin which will keep in 
the juices of the meat. The heat is then reduced, 
and cooking finished slowly, or the jneat would 
harden all the way through. 

If a fire is used, it is made up to a clear red 
heat. If a Gas Oven, the burners are lit, turned 
on full (or nearly so, according to the pressure of 
the gas), the door closed, and in ten minutes it will 
be ready for use. The meat is placed on a stand in 
a baking tin; or on an earthenware baking dish. 
These dishes are delightful in use, the fat does not 
splutter or burn, they can be sent to table, and are 
easily cleaned. A good deal of dripping or other 
fat must be put on and round the meat, and the 
tin or dish must be large enough to allow room for 
basting. 

To baste is to pour melted fat over whatever 
is roasting, taking it up with a large metal spoon. 
A rough cloth should be put over the hand in case 
of splashing, the oven door kept open for as short 
a time as possible. The more frequently basted 
the more juicy the meat will be, and the less it will 
lose in weight. Lean meat requires more basting 
than that which is fat. Where it is not possible to 
give a roast constant attention, it should be covered 
over with a well-greased paper, which should be 
tucked in all round. As an alternative, thick slices 
of fat bacon (all fat) may be tied or skewered on. 

The same rules apply to the roasting of birds. 

29 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Times for roasting, cannot be accurately given. 
A joint that is thick and solid meat will take 
longer than one of the same weight which is 
thinner and contains bone. White and immature 
meat requires to be better cooked than brown meat. 
Beef may be underdone. Pork is uneatable unless 
thoroughly cooked. Extra time for cooking must 
be allowed in cold weather. Frozen meat must 
thaw slowly before being cooked. An average Time 
Table is : — 

Beef and Mutton, to each lb. 15 minutes, and 15 
minutes over. 

If a thick piece, to each lb. 20 minutes, and 20 
minutes over. 

Pork and Veal, to each lb. 20 minutes, and 20 
minutes over. 

If a thick piece, to each lb. 25 minutes, and 25 
minutes over. 

Baking. — All baking requires a hot oven. Bread, 
pastry, and cakes contain yeast, or Baking Pow- 
der. These when moistened and warmed generate 
a gas, which pushes up or raises the dough. 
The heat of the oven hastens this rising, and sets 
the raised bread or cake. If the heat is not suffici- 
ent the dough will not rise properly, if the heat is 
not maintained for a sufficient time the dough will 
rise and go down again. (Take a spoonful of Bak- 
ing Powder, add a little water to it, and its action 
will be seen.) 

Broiling or Grilling. — This is the quickest of 
cookery methods but suitable only for small pieces 
of meat, fish, etc. Grilling takes place over, 

30 



COOKERY METHODS AND PRINCIPLES 

or in front of the fire, or in the case of gas, under 
the grill. The fire must be clear and red, or the 
grill made red hot. The principle in grilling (as 
in roasting) is to scorch the outside at once, forming 
a skin to keep in the juices. The gridiron is 
rubbed over with fat to prevent sticking. The 
meat, fish, etc., to be grilled is brushed over with 
oil, liquid butter or fat. If thick, it is scored, 
cutting across with a sharp knife so that the heat 
gets quickly through. The fish or meat is turned 
when brown on one side, a knife being used, as, if 
pricked with a fork, the juice will run out. A grill 
must be served as soon as it is ready, in fact the 
table must wait for a grill. 

Boiling. — To boil is to cook in boiling water. 
Water boils at a temperature of 212 degrees, when 
bubbles rise freely in the centre of the pan. To 
boil meat, it is placed in boiling water, and kept at 
the same temperature for ten minutes. The prin- 
ciple is the same as in roasting and grilling, the 
hardening of the albumen on the outside, thus form- 
ing a skin to keep in the juices. After ten minutes 
boiling the heat is reduced and the meat simmered 
only until done. In simmering, bubbles rise slowly 
in a corner only of the pan. If meat is boiled all 
the time, it becomes tough, indigestible, and taste- 
less. All scum must be carefully removed (a little 
salt helps it to rise), or it may spoil the appearance 
of the meat, and will make the stock muddy. In 
boiling meat, fowl, etc., it is well to put any bones 
that have previously been removed at the bottom 
of the pan, the meat standing on them, or on a wire 

31 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

stand. The water should be sufficient to touch but 
not to cover the meat; so that it is really cooked in 
steam. The same rules apply to the boiling of 
birds. 

Times for Boiling, cannot be accurately given, 
they depend on thickness, bone or no bone, tem- 
perature and other conditions. An average time 
is to each lb. 20 minutes, and 20 minutes over. 
Salt meat requires more time, and more water, and 
is put into warm water to cook. In the process of 
pickling much of the goodness is drawn out, so that 
salt meat is less nourishing than fresh. It requires 
long simmering to make it tender, as salt hardens 
the fibre. 

Dried Salt Meat, such as ham, requires soaking 
for some hours; the moisture which has been eva- 
porated must be replaced. To cook, put it in a pan 
of cold water, bring very slowly to the boil and 
simmer slowly for a long time. An average time 
for a small piece is to each lb. 30 minutes or more 
according to thickness. 

In all cases boiling counts from the time when 
the water, with the meat in it, reaches boiling point. 
This is important. Dried meat may take an hour 
to reach this point, and during this time the meat, 
though warming through, is not cooking. It is also 
important that boiling or simmering be continuous, 
and the lid of the pan should be occasionally raised 
to see that the heat is maintained. With gas there 
is no difficulty, the burners can be regulated to give 
the exact amount of heat necessary to keep the water 
at the required temperature. 

32 



COOKERY METHODS AND PRINCIPLES 

Steaming is boiling in steam. With meat, 
fish, birds, puddings, etc., it is, generally speaking, 
an easier method than boiling in water, and gives 
better results ; flavour is retained, the flesh is more 
tender, and less bulk and goodness are lost. A 
steamer is a tin pan, the bottom pierced with many 
holes, which fits over a sauce-pan. In the lower 
pan water is kept boiling, and the steam rising 
through the holes cooks whatever is in the steamer. 
With a steamer two dishes can be cooked with the 
heat and space required for one; for instance, meat 
may be boiling in the sauce-pan, potatoes in their 
skins or a pudding in the steamer. Or steaming 
may take place in a sauce-pah, placing the meat or 
pudding on a wire stand (see Boiling) so that it 
stands above the water and is cooked in steam. In 
steaming birds, the breast is covered with strong 
greased paper to keep off drops which fall from the 
lid. Steaming requires rather more time than 
boiling. 

Braising. — True braising is cooking in a pan 
with heat above and below. A special braising pan 
has a deep lid on which hot coals are placed. The 
same result is now attained by putting a casserole 
in the oven. The casserole is lined with fat bacon 
(see recipes), a small quantity of water or stock is 
used, and cooking is very slow and gentle. When 
ready the stock should be reduced to a glaze. It is 
now usual, and in a small household more economi- 
cal, to reduce the time for braising, and to brush 
over the meat or bird with bought glaze. Meat is 
often braised on the top of the stove. 
» 33 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Stewing. — This is a slow process, producing 
savoury dishes, and a most useful one in a small 
establishment. A stew can be made early in the 
day and warmed up; it can be kept hot for a long 
time and, with care, rather improves than deterior- 
ates, an occasional stir being all it requires. It is 
wise to put an asbestos mat under the pan to pre- 
vent sticking. In stewing, the meat, etc., is put in 
an earthenware or other pan with cold water, which 
is very slowly brought up to simmering point (when 
the water bubbles slowly in a corner of the pan) 
and kept at that temperature. The time required 
will depend on the size and degree of hardness of 
meat or bird ; almost ^ny tough meat can be made 
tender by stewing if given sufficient time (a spoon- 
ful of vinegar in the water helps to soften hard 
fibres). An Irish stew will take about two hours. 
Ox tail requires four hours. It is easy to ascertain 
with a fork when the meat is tender. 

A brown stew is coloured by frying onions, meat, 
etc., before stewing. In this stew the gravy is 
generally thickened with flour; this flour must be 
well cooked, the best plan being to fry it with other 
ingredients as given in recipes. 

In stewing much of the goodness is drawn into 
the gravy. As meat and grav3^ are eaten together 
there is no loss of nourishment. Stews should be 
served in the casserole in which they are cooked, or 
in a deep dish ; and small soup plates are advisable 
so as to avoid waste of the gravy. 

Frying. — This method is sometimes called 
Trench' or 'Wet frying.' To fry is to boil in hot 

34 



COOKERY METHODS AND PRINCIPLES 

fat or oil. Water boils at 212 degrees, fat boils at 
350 degrees (some oils reach a higher temperature), 
and at that heat cooks very quickly, and browns. 
In using fat, the high temperature must be kept in 
mind ; whatever is to be fried must be slipped in 
slowly and gently; a splash means a burn, should 
the fat come into contact with lighted gas it will 
ignite. Water bubbles when it boils, fat is still 
and gives off a blue smoke when ready. It should 
then be at once used, or taken off the gas, or it 
quickly burns and spoils. All rendered animal or 
vegetable fats are good mediums for frying, pro- 
vided they are pure and contain no water, salt or 
other substance. As there must be sufficient to 
cover the article to be fried, the 'frying fat' should 
be started with about 2 lbs. of Hugon's block suet, 
or rendered fat (see directions). Once started this 
fat should be kept up, as it reduces with use, 
-adding to it any raw fat trimmed off meat, after 
rendering. The frying fat is kept clean by taking 
off any scum rising to the surface, and carefully 
straining through a fine sieve after using, to remove 
crumbs, etc., which would otherwise burn and spoil 
the fat. Fat must be left to cool a little before 
straining, or the great heat may unsolder the 
strainer. It should not be put in the larder until 
cold. The same fat can be used over and over 
again. Whatever is to be fried (fish, rissoles, etc.) 
is rubbed in flour, egg and breadcrumb, or batter, 
etc. The great heat sets this at once, forming a 
skin ; so that the fat does not touch the substance 
of fish or meat, and cannot become flavoured. 
When the fat becomes a bad colour and exhausted, 

35 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

as it will in timCj a fresh 'frying fat* should be 
started. 

An unlined iron and steel stewpan is used for 
deep frying, and there should be a wire basket to 
fit it. This basket greatly facilitates the putting 
in and taking out of potato chips, rissoles, etc. Or 
a frying spoon may be used ; this is flat, made of 
wire, and very open to allow of the fat draining off. 
Both basket and spoon should be cleaned by rub- 
bing with soft paper while hot, and should not be 
washed. When practicable the pan should be 
cleaned out in the same way. 

To Fry. — Put the fat in the stewpan and heat 
(with the basket, if to be used) till the fat is still 
and smoking. It will take some time. Should 
the light be bad, and not allow of the smoke being 
seen, the heat can be tested by putting in a piece 
of bread ; if it crisps and browns at once, the fat is 
ready. The article to be fried should be rubbed 
in flour or e^gg and breadcrumb at the last moment, 
so as to be dry on the outside, otherwise spitting 
takes place and the fish, etc., may not be crisp. 
A small quantity should be fried at a time, or the 
fat will be unduly chilled. The fat must smoke 
again between each frying. Generally speaking, a 
thing fried is ready when a golden brown ; but if 
thick, the colour must be deeper; no actual times 
can be given. On taking fried things out of the 
pan, whether by basket or spoon, these should be 
tilted a little to run off any fat. They are then 
placed for a minute on soft paper (crumpled on a 
tin), so as to drain off any remaining fat. Fried 
food should be dry. If it be greasy, either it was 

36 



COOKERY METHODS AND PRINCIPLES 

put into the fat wet, or the fat was not 'boiling' ; 
or too much was put in at the same time, and the fat 
chilled. Fried food should be served as soon as it is 
!' ready, or crispness is lost. No cover should be put 
on the dish. 

Dry frying. This is to cook in a fry pan with 
a small quantity of fat, dripping or butter (a 
method used for chops, steaks, onions, pancakes, 
omelettes, etc.). The pan must be hot, and the fat 
must be smoking before anything is put in to fry. 

The principle in frying is to make a dry outside 
by flouring, etc. ; to plunge into boiling fat so that 
a skin is at once formed, keeping in the goodness 
of whatever is being cooked. The high tempera- 
ture of the fat makes frying a quick process. 

To render fat for frying. Buy 2 lbs. of fat scraps 
(mixed), add any trimmings of raw fat that may 
be in the larder. Cut the fat in thin strips, put in 
an iron saucepan with a small quantity of water, 
just to prevent burning. Stir occasionally with a 
steel fork or knife. Simmer till, the water having 
evaporated, the pieces of skin brown, curl up and 
float in the oil. Cool the fat and strain into a 
special basin or pan, it will be white and hard when 
cold. 

To clarify dripping. The fat that drips from a 
joint during the process of roasting is called drip- 
ping. When cold this fat is taken off the gravy 
and the under side scraped to remove any brown 
pieces that may adhere. Dripping is generally 
used for dry frying. If the fat becomes too dark 
in colour it may be clarified by putting it in a 
pan, covering with boiling water and just bringing 

37 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

it to boiling point. When quite cold the fat is 
easily lifted, the under side scraped and all im- 
purities will be left in the water. 

Stock making. The making of stock differs 
from other methods of cookery in that the object is 
to draw out all juices and goodness by slow simmer- 
ing, or digesting, instead of to keep them in. 
Stock is generally made with raw meat, or bones, 
fish and fish bones, vegetables, etc. An earthen- 
ware marmite, or casserole, makes an excellent 
stockpot, and is easily cleaned. Nothing should 
remain in a stockpot over night. In making stock 
the bones are broken as small as possible, meat 
without fat is cut up small. These are covered 
with cold water, put over a gentle heat, and sim- 
mered for two or three hours. The water should 
never reach boiling point. If allowed to boil, the 
meat will harden and no more goodness will be 
extracted from it. If the stock is kept on too long, 
or boiled, the smell is often offensive, and the stock 
muddy. All scum must be carefully taken off as 
it rises, the putting in of salt helps to bring it to 
the surface. If the scum is removed two or three 
times the stock should be clear and fit for ordinary 
use. Vegetables to flavour are best put in the last 
hour of simmering, they give a stale taste to the 
stock if over cooked. When ready, stock is strained 
into a basin, and put in the larder when cold, any 
fat will then float on the surface and can be easily 
removed. All stock should possess food value, 
whether used for soup or gravies ; it is better to 
have a small quantity of good stock than a large 
Due of poor stuff. 

3S 



SOUPS 

STOCK is the foundation of most soups and 
gravies, and is best made in an earthen- 
ware marmite or stewpot, which must be 
emptied daily. To make stock, raw meat freed 
from fat is cut small, bones of meat, poultry, 
game, rabbits (cooked or uncooked) are broken 
up, and covered with cold water. The pan is 
put over gentle heat, and very slowly brought 
up to simmering point, when the water bubbles 
gently on one side of the pot. Salt is now 
added, all scum is carefully removed as long as any 
rises, and the stock is left to simmer very gently 
for three or four hours. If the bones are already 
cooked, simmer for not more than two hours. The 
last hour add a scraped carrot, an onion stuck with 
cloves, and half a dozen peppercorns. When the 
stock is ready, pour it through a wire strainer into 
a basin. When it is cold remove all fat, which will 
be floating on the surface, and the stock is ready 
for ordinary use. It should look clear and clean. 
A small quantity of Lemco (Meat Extract) or Mar- 
mite (Vegetable Extract) or a few drops of Caramel 
will improve the colour if necessary. Caramel is 
made by browning a lump of sugar in an old iron 
spoon, holding it over heat till it takes the required 
colour. If stock is cooked at too great a heat, the 

39 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

albumen in meat is hardened, and the juices are not 
extracted. If it is overcooked, galloped, or not well 
skimmed, the result is an offensive smell, and a 
muddy, stale tasting liquor. A small quantity of 
good stock is of greater value than more of an 
inferior quality. The water in which meat, poul- 
try, rabbits and fish have been boiled forms stock. 
Fish bones and skin and coarse fish will make a 
good stock for fish soups. The water in which peas 
and beans have been boiled is a vegetable stock. 
Soups must always have food value. Where the 
stock is thin and poor, it can be enriched by adding 
butter, milk, egg, cheese, meat extract, vegetables, 
sauces and starches, etc., as required. The clear- 
ing of soup removes much of the goodness and 
flavour ; therefore, stock used for a clear soup must 
be strong. 

A GOOD STOCK 

Shin of Beef, 2 lbs. Cloves, 4 ; Pepper- 
Knuckle of Veal, I lb. corns, 6 
Ham or Bacon Bones Salt 
Cold Water, 3 pints Sugar, i lump 
Carrot, Onion 

Proceeding according to directions for making 
Stock. 

CLEAR SOUP OR CONSOMME 

Good Stock, 2 pints Small Carrot 

Gravy Beef, 4 oz. Onion, Celery 

Peppercorns, Salt Lump of vSugar 

Shred the meat as small as possible, put it in a 
saucepan with the stock and other ingredients. 
Whisk this over the fire till it nearly boils. Remove 

40 



SOUPS 

the whisk, boil for ten minutes, reduce the heat, 
and let the pan stand on the stove for half an hour. 
Strain the soup through a linen cloth tied over a 
basin. Pour very gently; this is best done with a 
large spoon. If the soup is not quite clear, strain 
a second time, but this should not be necessary. A 
lump of sugar added when warming up gives brilli- 
ancy. A tablespoon of- sherry may be put in the 
tureen, if liked. The stock may be cleared by 
using, instead of raw meat, the whites and crushed 
shells of two eggs. These are put into the stock 
and whisked till boiling, in the same manner. 

JULIENNE SOUP 

A clear soup with finely shredded carrot, turnip, 
onion, French beans, or a few green peas. The 
vegetables may be boUed; or cooked in a little 
butter, drained on paper, and put in the hot soup. 

ROYAL SOUP 

A clear soup, with savoury custard. To make 
the custard, beat up a yolk of &gg with half a gill 
of stock, season, pour into a small buttered cup or 
jar, cover with paper and steam very gently for 
about ten minutes, or till' firm. Let the custard 
cool, turn it out, cut in squares and put in the 
tureen with the hot soup. The custard may be 
divided — one part yellow, one salmon, one green. 

ITALIAN SOUP 

All clear stocks may have added to them Italian 
paste, spaghetti or other maccaronis, vermicelli, or 

41 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

rice. These may be boiled in water and warmed in 
the soup, or, if there is enough stock to allow of 
reduction, they may be cooked in the soup. Dry 
grated cheese should be served with these soups. 





POTATO SOUP 


Potatoes 


Stock 


Onion 


Milk 


Butter, I oz. 


Celery, Salt 



Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the sliced 
vegetables, cover, and let them cook for ten minutes 
without browning. Pour in a little stock, and 
simmer till the vegetables are tender. Rub through 
a sieve, return to the pan, add milk, seasoning, and 
stir till hot and smooth. A little grated cheese may 
be stirred in at the last moment, or a small quantity 
of cream. Cooked floury potatoes can be used, 
putting in the butter when warming them up, after 
they have been sieved. 

Artichoke Soup. — This is made with Jerusalem 
artichokes, in the same way as potato soup. 

CARROT SOUP 

Carrots Stock or water, i pint; 

Butter, 2 oz. or Milk 

Cornflour, ^ oz. Seasoning 

Cut the carrots in slices, and put them in the 
stewpan with an oz. of butter. Cover, and simmer 
gently for ten minutes. Pour over stock or water, 
and simmer till the carrots are soft. Rub through 
a sieve. Melt the second oz. of butter in the pan, 

42 



SOUPS 

add the flour, and cook a little. Add some milk 
and boil to cook the flour. Pour in the puree, and 
simmer gently for about ten minutes, adding milk 
or stock to thin if necessary. Season, add a pinch 
of sugar, and a few drops of carmine for colour. 

Onion Soup. — Use Spanish onions, and make in 
the same way as carrot soup. 

Cabbage Soup. — Prepare a small crisp cabbage, 
cut it up, and proceed as with carrot soup. 

MARROW SOUP 

A Small Marrow Stock or Milk, i pint 

An Onion Crushed Tapioca, i oz; 

Butter, I oz. or Semolina 

Cut up the vegetables, and cook in the butter, as 
for potato soup. Cover with stock or water, and 
simmer till tender. Rub through a sieve, and 
return to the pan, with the tapioca, seasonings, and 
milk, and simmer till the tapioca is clear, stirring 
occasionally. 

TOMATO SOUP 

Tomatoes, i Yt>. Lean Ham, 2 oz 

I Onion Butter, i oz. 

Tapioca, i oz. Stock or Milk, i pint 

This is made as Marrow Soup. 



SPINACH SOUP 

Spinach, 5^ lb. (or less) Stock, i pint; or Milk 
Butter, I oz. and Water 

Cornflour, ^ oz. Sugar, i teaspoon 

43 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Wash the spinach thoroughly, and cook without 
water for about ten minutes. Rub it through a 
sieve. Melt the butter, add the flour, and cook the 
two together, stirring well. Add the stock or milk, 
and bring it to a boil. Stir in the puree, season 
well, and stir till hot. Or cold spinach may be 
used. 

GREEN PEA SOUP 

Peas too old to be eaten as^a vegetable make a 
good soup. Shell, put them in a stewpot with some 
butter, cover, and simmer gently for ten minutes. 
Cover with water, simmer gently till tender (with 
a sprig of mint). Rub the peas through a sieve, 
return to the pan, and boil up, stirring well to 
keep the puree smooth. Add seasoning, a pinch of 
sugar, and thin with milk as required. A little 
cream greatly improves this soup. 



CHESTNUT SOUP 

Chestnuts, ^ lb. Stock or Milk, i pint 

Butter, I oz. Cream and Seasoning 

Slit the chestnuts at both ends and boil them in 
water for ten minutes. Remove the husks and 
inner skins. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, 
put in the nuts, cover, and simmer for a few 
minutes. Add the stock, and boil till the chest- 
nuts are soft. Rub through a sieve, return to the 
pan, add seasoning and a pinch of sugar, and just 
bring to the boil. A little cream improves this 
soup. 

44 



SOUPS 

MINNESTRONE 
Butter, 2 oz. Small Onion or Leek 

Carrot, Turnip A Potato, Tomatoes 

Cabbage, a small piece Rice, i oz. 

Cut up all the vegetables except the tomatoes, 
and simmer in the butter in a stewpan or marmite 
for ten minutes. Add the stock or water, and 
bring up to the boil. Sprinkle in the washed rice, 
a little later put in the quartered tomatoes, pepper 
ajdd salt. Simmer till the rice is cooked, sprinkle 
with grated cheese, and serve in the marmite. 

PEA SOUP 
Dried Peas, i pint Stock from Boiled Meat 

Onion, Carrot, Turnip Butter, i oz. 

The peas may be whole or split, they should soak 
all night and be well looked over. If there is 
plenty of stock and it is not salt, the peas may be 
boiled in it. Or the peas may be boiled in water 
till tender, they generally require two hours' boil- 
ing. The second hour put in the other vegetables. 
Rub all through a sieve, return to the pot, stir to 
keep smooth, and thin with stock or milk. Add a 
teaspoon of sugar, a good piece of butter or drip- 
ping, and serve with powdered mint and fried bread. 

Haricot Soup, and Butter Bean Soup are both 
made in the same way as pea soup. 

VELVET SOUP 

Tapioca, i oz. Butter, i oz. 

Milk and Water, i pint Yolk of Egg 
Cloves, 2 Peppercorns.. 4 

Put the milk and water in a small pan with the 

45 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

cloves and peppercorns. When it boils, remove 
the spices, and sprinkle in the finely crushed 
tapioca. Boil, till this is quite clear, add the 
seasonings and the butter; and stir over the fire 
till the butter is melted. Beat the yolk of egg in 
the tureen, pour the hot soup over very slowly, 
stirring well. Serve at once. Sago or semolina 
can be substituted for tapioca, and cream can take 
the place of the egg. 

MUTTON BROTH 
Take stock in which mutton has been boiled, 
remove the fat. Put it in the stewpot, when boiling 
add carrot, turnip and onion cut in small dice, 2 or 
3 oz. of well washed rice, and seasoning. Boil till 
the vegetables and rice are cooked. Chop some 
parsley fine, put it in the tureen, pour the hot broth 
over, and serve. Pearl barley may be used instead 
of rice. This should be scalded and soaked, and 
requires about two hours* boiling. 

Veal Broth. — Take stock in which veal has 
boiled, and use as mutton broth. 

Chicken Broth. — Take stock in which chicken 
has been boiled, and use as mutton broth. 

Rabbit Broth. — Take stock in which rabbit and 
pork have been boiled, and use as mutton broth. 
Should the stock be too salt, use half stock and 
half milk. 

MOCK TURTLE wSOUP 
Take stock in which half a calf's head has boiled. 
Fry I oz. of butter and i oz. of flour in a small pan 

46 



SOUPS 

till brown, stirring all the time. Add a small tea- 
spoon of Worcester and tomato sauces, add the 
stock gradually, and boil for ten minutes. Season 
with pepper and salt and a pinch of celery salt. 
Cut some square pieces of the meat from the head 
and warm in the soup. Just before pouring the 
soup into the tureen, add a tablespoon of sherry and 
a small squeeze of lemon. Add Lemco or other 
browning if necessary to make the soup a good 
colour. 

MULLIGATAWNY SOUP 

Butter, 2 ozs. Chicken or other stock 

Flour, I oz. Onion, Carrot, Turnip 

Curry Powder, a Des- or Green Apple 

sert spoon Salt 
White vSugar, i teaspoon 

Melt I oz, butter in a small stewpan, slice the 
onion and fry it brown, stir in the flour and curry 
powder, and fry. Cover with stock, put in the 
other vegetables and simmer till they are soft. 
Rub all through a sieve. Return to the pot and 
heat again, adding the sugar, salt, and more stock 
if necessary. Add Lemco or other browning if 
required to make the soup a good colour. Dry 
boiled rice is served with this soup. 

JYSTER SOUP 

Butter, I oz. Stock and Milk, i pint 

Flour or Cornflour, i oz. 6 Oysters or tin of 
Anchovy Essence, i Oysters 

teaspoon Salt and Pepper 

Melt the butter in a small saucepan, lift off the 

47 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

fire and stir in the flour, return to the fire and cook 
lightly. Stir well. Add the stock gradually, add 
the milk, and simmer for a few minutes. Cut the 
oysters in halves, warm them in the soup, which 
must not boil or the oysters will harden. Add a 
little anchovy essence and a small pinch of cayenne. 
The stock may be the strained liquor of the oysters, 
fish, or any white stock. 

Shrimp Soup. — This is made in the same way 
as oyster soup. Shrimps are sold ready cooked and 
picked. Anchovy and a few drops of carmine give 
flavour and colour. Half milk and half fish stock 
should be used. 

LOBSTER SOUP 

Take a small lobster, break the shell and flake 
the meat. Put aside the claw pieces. Put the fish 
and shell in a small stewpan, with a small quantity 
of water and a piece of carrot and onion to flavour. 
Simmer very slowly for about 15 minutes. Take 
out the vegetables and rub the fish through a sieve. 
Melt an oz. of butter in the stewpan, add yi oz. of 
flour and, gradually, the stock. Boil for 5 or 6 
minutes. Stir in the fish ; add anchovy essence, and 
a pinch of cayenne. The claw pieces are stirred in 
to warm at the last. This soup must be thinned 
with milk or stock if too thick. A little cream put 
in the tureen, the hot soup poured over it, is a great 
improvement, or a yolk of ^%g may be added. 



48 



FISH 

FISH should be very fresh. Herrings, 
Mackerel and Sprats especially so. A 
fish when fresh is stiff, the skin and 
eyes are bright, the gills are red, and the 
smell is not unpleasant. In warm weather, 
or when packed, the condition of a fish rapidly 
deteriorates, and it maj'^ be necessary to wash it in 
vinegar and cold water to restore the stiffness; 
otherwise rinse the inside of the fish under the tap 
after cleaning, or wipe it with a piece of wet tissue 
paper only. A small fish is sweeter than a large 
one. For a small household it is always advantage- 
ous, to buy slices or the tail end of a small fish. 

To skin a flat fish. Place the fish on a hard 
board, with a sharp pointed knife cut across the 
tail, loosen the dark skin with the right thumb 
dipped in salt, hold the fish flat with the left hand, 
and draw the skjn off towards the head. There is 
no difficulty in this, provided the fish is fresh, the 
skin moist and the knife kept very sharp and wet. 
The dark skin of a sole is removed by the fish- 
monger, but not that of either lemon sole or plaice, 
making all the difference in their flavour and 
delicacy. 

To fillet a flat fish. After removing the dark 
skin, cut down the backbone, slip the knife under 

49 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

the flesh, keeping close to the bone, till the fins are 
reached. Cut a fillet off each side, turn the fish 
over, and cut off two more fillets, making four to 
each fish. If these are too large they can be divided. 

To fillet other fish. Whiting is especially good 
when filleted. Whiting, herring, mackerel, had- 
dock, etc. : Cut down the back with a sharp knife, 
lift the flesh carefully off the bone, making two 
fillets to each fish. These can be divided if pre- 
ferred. 

Time for cooking fish. It is impossible to give 
accurate times, which must depend on the thick- 
ness and character of the fish. An average time is 
ten minutes to each lb. and ten minutes over. A 
2 lb. flat fish is much thinner than 2 lbs. centre cut 
of cod, and will therefore cook more quickly. The 
flesh of salmon is firm and substantial, and requires 
longer cooking than equal weight of any other fish. 
Fish must always be well done. To test take a 
sharp pointed knife and make a small cut in the 
thickest part, close to the bone. If the fish is ready 
the flesh will come away easily, and there will be 
no sign of blood. In frying fish, a thin fish or 
fillet is ready when a golden brown; a thick slice 
must take a darker colour. 

To boil fish. This is a method which loses much 
of the goodness and flavour of the fish, and is not 
to be recommended. If fish must be boiled, put 
salt and a little vinegar in the water before putting 
in the fish, and never let it do more than simmer. 
If a fish kettle is used, the strainer can be raised 
on short legs, and the handles shortened. The fish 

50 



FISH 

will then cook in steam without touching the water 
(as below). 

To steam fish. Rub the fish over with a piece of 
lemon. Fold it in well buttered, strong, grease- 
proof paper. Place it in a steamer (or on a raised 
strainer, as above) over slowly boiling water. This 
is a conservative mode of cooking, and nothing is 
lost. The liquor in the paper is used in the sauce. 

To cook fish in the oven. This is an easy and 
conservative mode of cooking, the fish loses none of 
its flavour or goodness. Use a fireproof or earthen- 
ware dish, just large enough to take the fish (or a 
tin). Melt a good piece of butter in it, lay in the 
fish, season with salt, pepper, and a good squeeze 
of lemon. If a thick piece of fish, put small dabs 
of butter on the top. Cover with a strong greased 
paper, large enough to tuck in, and cook in a warm 
oven till the flesh comes away from the bone easily. 
The heat should not be great enough to burn the 
paper or colour the fish. It can be served in the 
dish in which it is cooked, a teaspoon of anchovj*-, 
shrimps, or chopped capers added to the liquor 
(which consists of essence of fish, butter, and lemon 
juice). Or dish the fish, and serve with a white 
sauce to which the fish liquor has been added. Fish 
done in this way is often called 'boiled,' as though 
cooked in the oven it is not allowed to colour. 

To fry fish. The following are suitable mediums 
for frying fish : — Rendered fat, lard, oil, Hugon 
Suet (in blocks), Palmine, and other vegetable fats. 
About 2 lbs. are required, there must be enough to 
cover the fish. The fat should be added to occa- 

^1 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

sionally, and care taken that it does not burn, and 
it will last a considerable time. Fat must always 
be strained before putting away, letting it first cool 
a little. An unlined steel stewpan which will take 
the frying basket is the best in which to cook small 
fish and fillets. Or a deep oval fry pan, with a 
wire slice for lifting and draining. The fat is ready 
for use when quite still and smoking freely, it has 
then reached a temperature of about 350 degrees. 

To egg and breadcrumb fish. Dry the fish, and 
rub in seasoned flour (a tablespoon flour, a teaspoon 
salt, J^ teaspoon pepper). Make crumbs by rub- 
bing stale bread through a sieve on to a paper. 
Beat an egg on a plate; use a brush and cover the 
fish with tggy lay it in the crumbs, covering well, 
and batting them on with the hand. Put the fish 
carefully in the smoking fat, using the frying 
basket if convenient, avoid splashing. When the 
fish is a golden brown (a thick slice must take a 
darker colour) lift it out with a basket or wire spoon, 
holding a minute over the pan to let the fat run off. 
Place the fish on soft crumpled paper to drain. 
Fish fried in deep fat does not get dry, so does not 
require a sauce. Dish on a paper, garnish with 
raw or fried parsley, and quarters of lemon. Fried 
fish should be served as soon as ready, and must not 
be covered, or the crispness will be lost. 

Fish may also be dipped in milk and well flourei 
or crumbed, or covered with a batter for frying. 

GARNISH FOR FISH 

White fish requires careful garnishing. 

52 



FISH 

Parsley, raw or fried (see Fried Parsley). 

Cucumber, the rind cut in strips, or slices cut 
with the rind left. 

Lemon, slices or quarters (no pips), or the rind 
grated. 

Tomato, in quarters or slices (squeeze out the 
seeds). 

Capers, Gherkin, or other pickle, cut up. 

Anchovies, the fillets boned and rolled and pre- 
served in oil are the best. 

Olives, preserved in oil and stoned. 

Lobster Coral. Or Coralline Pepper, which is a 
bright red, and not so hot as cayenne. 

FRYING BATTER FOR FISH 

Flour, 4 oz. Warm Water, a gill 

Olive Oil, a tablespoon ^gg, i white 

Sift the flour in a basin, make a well in the centre, 
and pour in the oil. Add the warm water very 
slowly, stirring hard from the centre with a wooden 
spoon, and keeping it very smooth. Let the batter 
stand an hour if possible. Whisk the white of &gg 
to a solid froth, fold it carefully to the batter at 
the last moment. Cut the fish in rather small 
pieces, dry in seasoned flour, dip into the batter, 
and cover well. Fry in boiling fat a few pieces at 
a time, drain on soft paper, serve and garnish. 

SALMON 

A tail of small Salmon Butter 
Lemon Seasoning 

53 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Melt a good piece of butter in a fireproof or 
earthenware dish, or baking tin. Lay in the fish, 
squeeze over lemon juice (no pips), pepper and salt, 
and put some small pieces of butter on the top. 
Cover with strong buttered paper, tucked well in, 
and cook in a moderate oven for thirty or forty 
minutes, according to the thickness of the fish. 
Serve in the same dish, adding a little Anchovy to 
the liquor. Or lift carefully to another dish, and 
serve with a Maitre d* Hotel, Tar tare, or Piquante 
Sauce. 

The following may be cooked in the same way : — 

Cod, small tail, or slice Serve Oyster Sauce 

Fresh Haddock Serve Egg Sauce 

Halibut Serve Shrimp Sauce 

Hake Serve Anchovy Sauce 

Turbot Serve Lobster Sauce 

vSole Serve Maitre d 'Hotel 

Sauce 



FILLETS OF SOLE (STUFFED) 

A Lemon Sole Potted Fish, or Shrimps 

Lemon, Seasoning or a Forcemeat or 

Butter Lobster Sauce 

Take o£E the dark skin, and fillet a Lemon or 
Scotch sole. Lay the fillets on a board, the skin 
side uppermost. Place in the centre of each a small 
quantity of potted fish, shrimps or other stuffing. 
Fold in three, taking care that the pieces look of 
an equal size. Melt butter in a fireproof dish, lay 
in the fillets, the folded side underneath, season, 
squeeze over a little lemon juice, cover with buttered 

54 



FISH 

paper, and cook in a moderate oven for about lo 
minutes. ^Garnish and serve as they are, or move 
to another dish, and cover with a good Dutch Sauce, 
which may be yellow (yolk of Qgg), salmon colour 
(yolk of egg and Anchovy), or green (a few drops 
of green colouring). Shake a little Coralline Pepper 
on each fillet, and garnish with small sprigs of 
parsley. 

FRIED SOLES 

2 Slip Soles Egg 

Seasoned Flour White Breadcrumbs 

Trim and skin the fish, rub in seasoned flour; 
eggy breadcrumb, and fry in boiling fat (see To fry 
fish). Garnish parsley and quarters of lemon. 

FRIED FILLETS 

Take the dark skin off a Lemon or Scotch sole, 
or plaice, and fillet the fish. The seasoned flour 
may have added chopped parsley, a grating of lemon 
rind, or cayenne. Or spread on the fillets a little 
Anchovy Paste or Essence before putting on the 

Fillets of whiting are fried in the same way. 

PLAICE IN BATTER 

Remove the dark skin, fillet the plaice, and cut in 
ibng pieces. Spread on each some Anchovy paste. 
Make a frying batter (see Frying Batter for Fish), 
dip in each piece, covering it well, and fry in smok- 
ing fat. (See Fried Soles.) 

55 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

WHITEBAIT 
Whitebait, ^ pint Seasoned Flouj- 

Whitebait is not an expensive fish. The cooking 
of it offers no difficulties if the rules of frying are 
observed. (See Fish to Fry.) The fish must be 
washed, the seaweed, etc., carefully picked out, and 
the fish well dried in a cloth. Heat deep fat in a 
stewpan with the frying basket in it, till smoking 
freely . Make seasoned flour, put a small handful of 
the dried fish in it, separating and covering each 
fish, lay on a wire sieve and shake lightly to remove 
the superfluous flour. Lift the basket from the hot 
fat, put in the fish, lower gently, and cook till 
crisp, a few minutes only. Hold the basket over 
the pan, to drain off the fat, turn the fish on crushed 
soft paper on a tin and keep very hot. See that the 
fat smokes again before putting in the next fish, 
and continue till all are cooked. Dish on a paper, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper, garnish with quar- 
ters of lemon, and serve at once. The table must 
wait for whitebait. Hand brown bread and butter. 
It is important that the fish is not floured till it is 
going to be cooked, and that only a small quantity 
should be fried at a time. 

DEVILLED W^HITEBAIT 

Highly season the Whitebait, with cayenne and 
black pepper, and serve very hot. Fish left over 
can be devilled the next day. 

SCOTCH HERRINGS 
Herrings should be absolutely fresh, the small 

56 



FISH 

ones are the best. Flour lightly to dry, brush over 
with egg or milk, cover with oatmeal, and fry a 
deep colour in smoking fat, in a fry pan. Or 
herrings may be filleted. 

SPRATS 

Dry the fish and rub in seasoned flour. Take 
small skewers of equal sizes, run each one through 
the heads of about half a dozen fish. Fry crisp in 
smoking fat in a fry pan. 

LOBSTER CUTLETS 

A Lobster, or small tin Egg and Crumbs 
Panada Anchovy 

Make a Panada (see Sauces). Flavour with 
Anchovy, Coralline Pepper, a pinch of salt. Take 
the lobster out of the shell, flake with two forks, 
stir it into the sauce, and put on a plate to get 
cold. Divide the mixture into quarters, and again 
into as many cutlets as are required. Shape on a 
floured board, flour lightly, egg and breadcrumb, 
fry in deep fat, using the basket (see To Fry Fish) . 
Drain, dish on a paper, garnish with parsley. 

LOBSTER AU GRATIN 

A Lobster White Sauce 

Breadcrumbs Butter 

Take all the meat out of the shell, cut it up with 
a silver knife, keeping aside the red claw pieces. 
Make a small quantity of good White Sauce, using 
half milk and half fish stock (if available). Add 
Anchovy Essence, season well, stir in the fish, and 

57 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

warm it over the fire. Take the two halves of the 
head and tail of the lobster shell, making four 
pieces, trim them neatly. Put some of the mix- 
ture in each, cover with brown breadcrumbs, and 
small pieces of butter, and brown under the grill. 
vSprinkle with Coralline Pepper. 

SOIvE AU GRATIN 

A Sole Butter 

2 or 3 Mushrooms Brown Crumbs 

Small piece of Onion or Glaze 

Shalot Seasoning 

Lemon Juice or Sherry- 
Melt a piece of butter in a fireproof dish. Chop 
finely the mushrooms, the onion and parsley, and 
sprinkle half in the dish. Skin and trim the sole, 
and score it lightly with a sharp knife. Tay it in 
the dish, season, pour over a little sherry. Sprinkle 
over the rest of the mushrooms, &c., the brown 
crumbs, and lay small pieces of butter on the top. 
Bake in a moderate oven for 15 minutes or more, 
according to the size of the fish. Melt a half tea- 
spoon of glaze in a tablespoon of hot water, and 
pour round the fish. It should be served in the dish 
in which it is cooked. 

SOUSED MACKEREL 

2 small Mackerel Peppercorns 

Yi Pint Vinegar and Bay Leaf, Parsley 
Water 

Trim the fish, cutting off the heads and tails, 
and put in a deep pie or fireproof dish, with the 

.S8 



FISH 

vinegar and water, the peppercorns, 2 cloves, a 
sprig of parsley, and a Bay leaf. Cover closely 
and cook in a slow oven for an hour. Serve cold. 
If the fish is filleted it is quicker cooked. 
Herrings may be soused in the same way. 

SCALLOPS 

The small Scallops are the best. Wash very 
carefully to remove all sand. Put in a saucepan 
with enough hot water to cover and simmer gently 
for three quarters of an hour, or an hour, according 
to size. Make a white sauce, using half milk and 
half fish stock, stir in the fish. Place on a greased 
fireproof dish, sprinkle with brown bread crumbs, 
put small pieces of butter on the top, and brown 
under the gas grill, or in front of the fire. Or 
dish in small Scallop shells, and brown in the same 
way. 

Scallops are nutritious, and easily digested, when 
sufficiently cooked and tender. The remaining 
stock make.'j an excellent soup. • 

TO GRILL FLSH 

Make up a hot clear fire, or make the gas 
grill red hot. Rub over the bars of the grid- 
iron with fat, to prevent sticking. If the fish 
is thick, score it, making cuts across with a 
sharp knife. Or split it open. Brush it over with 
oil, or melted butter, and put the fish on the grid. 
Cook sharply, turning the fish when one side is 
done. Fish is very quickly cooked this way. It 
should be served at once with small pieces of plain 

59 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

or Maitre d' Hotel butter placed on it. The follow- 
ing fish can be grilled : — Slice of Salmon, Slice or 
Tail of small Cod (split open), Sole, Mackerel 
(split), Herrings, &c., Dried Haddock, Kippers, 
and Bloaters may be grilled in the same way. 

SMOKED FIIXETS OF FISH 

Put in a basin, pour boiling water over, cover 
closely, and leave for 5 or 10 minutes. Dry the fish, 
brush over with oil or butter, and grill. Place 
butter on the top when dishing. A large dried had- 
dock may be treated in the same way. 

Smoked Fillets may be boiled gently, drained, 
and served with egg sauce. 

Lobsters, Crabs, Prawns, Shrimps, are sold 
ready cooked and are generally eaten cold. They 
may be warmed (as recipes) but should never be 
recooked, or the flesh becomes tough and indi- 
gestible. 



60 



MEAT 

THE highest priced pieces of meat are the 
most economical to buy. For small house- 
holds, meat should be cut off small beasts. 

In cold weather, or when out of cold storage, 
meat should be kept in the kitchen to thaw slowly 
for some time before cooking. In hot weather meat 
may require the outside trimmed off, and washing 
with vinegar and water. It should never be cooked 
if tainted after this trimming and washing. 

Meat should be carefully looked over before cook- 
ing. All impurities, blood vessels, dried skin, 
visible muscles and sinews removed. The meat 
should be wiped over with wet tissue paper if 
necessary. All excess of fat should be cut off, in 
mutton especially (this will be rendered for frying). 
A butcher usually chops bones, but it is well to see 
that this has been properly done. Joints should be 
shaped with a view to easy carving. Wood skewers 
taken out, and replaced by steel, which are readily 
removed with a fork. 

To bone is to cut the bones out of the flesh in 
the neatest manner possible. A sharp pointed 
knife, and a firm board being necessary. Printed 
directions are difficult to follow, but in practice the 
art is quite an easy one. When meat is to be boned 

6i 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

it must not be previously chopped. Many small 
joints, such as loins, best end of neck of mutton or 
veal, a small shoulder of lamb, or half shoulder of 
mutton are specially good and economical when 
boned and stuffed. 

The following jointi» are suitable for a small 
household : — 

BEEF 

To Roast. Fillet of Beef, 2 lbs. (cut without the 

flap). 
To Boil. 2 or 3 lbs. of Salt Brisket (not too fat). 
To Bra:.5e. 3 lbs. Fillet of Beef. 
To Grill. R".mp Steak, or Slices of Fillet, any 

weight. 
To Stew. Rump or Buttock Steak. Ox Tail. 
For Pies or Puddings, Rump or Buttock Steak, Ox 

Kidney. 

MUTTON AND LAMB 

To Roast. 2 or 3 lbs. Loin, or best end of neck" 
(chined). A small shoulder of Lamb (which 
may be boned and stuffed). The Blade half of 
a Shoulder of Mutton. 

To Boil. 2 lbs. Best End of Neck (chined). The 
knuckle half of a leg or shoulder. Sheeps head 
(boiled, the meat taken off the bones, a brain 
and parsley sauce). Sweetbreads. 

To Stew. About 2 lbs. Best End of Neck (chined) 
for a Brown Stew or Haricot. About 2 or 3 
lbs. Scrag End of the Neck for a White or 
Irish Stew, Kidneys. 

62 



MEAT 

To Broil or Fry. Cutlets, Mutton or Lamb, are 

cut from the Best End of the Neck (chined). 

It is well to ask for as many bones as cutlets 

required. Kidneys, Sweetbreads. 
To Grill. Mutton Chops, Lamb Chops. 
To Braise. A small Shoulder of Lamb, boned and 

stuffed. A Breast of Lamb or Mutton, not too 

fat. Sweetbreads. 
Welsh or Mountain Mutton, when in season, is 

very small and sweet. Canterbury Lamb is 

small, and not too fat. 

VEAL 

Small Veal is far more delicate and tender than 

large, and easily digested. 

To Roast. The Blade half of a Shoulder or 
Oyster. A piece of Fillet (the bone taken out, 
the hole filled with Forcemeat or a piece of fat 
Bacon), a small Loin boned and stuffed. 

To Boil. A Knuckle (from the shoulder) with 
sufficient meat on it. The bones should be 
broken in two places, but the flesh not cut. 
Weight, about 3 or 4 lbs., it is mainly bone. 
The liquor makes good broth. Half a Calf's 
Head (small). Calves Feet. Sweetbreads. 

To Braise. The Best End of the Neck, boned, 
stuffed and rolled. Breast. Sweetbreads. 

To Fry. Veal Cutlet. Liver. Sweetbreads. 

PORK 

Pork should be very small and dairy fed. It is 
then delicate in flavour, tender and easily digested. 

63 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Pork is best bought from a dairy. The skin is 

always scored for roasting. 

To Roast. 2 or 3 lbs. of I^oin. A small leg. 

To Boil. Half a Hand (Shoulder) or small Hand, 
salted. A piece of Flank. The Cheek or Chap 
is generally sold ready boiled, and is eaten 
cold, being very fat. A whole Ham is too large 
for a small household. A corner can be bought 
weighing 33^ to 4 lbs., and is excellent eating 
hot and cold. 

To Fry. Chops may be fried or grilled. Break- 
fast Bacon is generally Back or Streaky. If 
only a lb. or so is bought it is a good plan to 
have it cut in Rashers, thick or thin, as it is 
not easy to cut well with a small piece. Saus- 
ages are best bought from a dairy, and must 
be good and fresh. They should be fried till 
a dark brown in fat deep enough to cover them. 



ROAST BEEF 

Take 2 lbs. Fillet of Beef, which will take about 
three-quarters of an hour to roast. Trim, and 
make into good shape for carving, a Fillet is carved 
down, not across. Put dripping in an earthenware 
baking dish, place the meat in on a stand, and more 
dripping on the beef. The oven must be very hot 
for the first ten minutes, the heat then reduced. 
Baste constantly. When the meat is sufficiently 
brown, remove the iron sheet from above it. When 
the beef is ready, place it on a hot dish, pour 
gravy round, and garnish with watercress, or baked 

64 



MEAT 

Tomatoes. For the gravy; if good stock is avail- 
able, warm it up, season and brown. Or, after 
dishing the beef, pour off the fat, put a little water 
in the baking dish, add some salt. Boil it up on 
the top of the stove, smoothing out with a knife any 
brown pieces sticking to the dish. Add a little 
Extract of Meat and pour the gravy through a fine 
strainer round the meat. Small joints do not make 
sufl&cient good gravy, it always requires adding to 
and improving. 

The Fillet may be served in the baking dish in 
which it has cooked. Lift the meat, pour av/ay the 

I fat, replace the meat, and pour hot gravy round. 
Small potatoes, which should be kept whole, may 
be cooked in with the meat. Or they may be par- 
boiled and fi.nished in the dripping. Meat cooked 

, in an earthenware dish is particularly good. 

ROAST MUTTON 

Mutton requires rather more cooking than Beef, 
and must always be well done and brown. Serve 
with Onion Sauce or Red Currant or Blackberry 
Jelly. In winter Dried Haricot Beans as a vege- 
table. 

ROAST LAMB 

Should be very well cooked and brown. It is 
generally served with Mint Sauce. 

ROAST VEAL 

Must be thoroughly cooked right through, and 
c 65 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

having little fat requires constant basting. It is 
served with rolls of Bacon (unless stuffed). Garnish 
with quarters of Lemon. Spinach or Tomatoes for 
vegetable or Sea-kale. 

ROAST PORK 

To be digestible, Pork must be well cooked right 
through. It requires a very hot oven (or the 
crackling will not crisp) and the heat must be kept 
up. Serve with Apple Sauce. Baked or boiled 
Onions, or Greens. 

BOILED MUTTON OR LAMB 

Take about 2 lbs. of the Best End of Neck of 

Mutton (previously chined, and the rib bones 

chopped short). It will take about an hour to boil. 

Remove the backbone, the sinew which lies along 

at the top of the meat, and a muscle which is easily 

found. Cut out the short bones, folding the flap 

underneath to make the joint a good shape. Cut 

or tear off all superfluous fat (to be rendered). 

Very little boiled mutton fat can be eaten. Put the 

bones in a Casserole with cold water. When it 

comes up to the boil add salt, skim well, and put in ■ 

the meat. The water should touch but not cover ' 

the meat. Add Spanish Onions (as many as are ; 

required for Sauce) stuck with two or three Cloves, t 

Carrots, Turnips, and half a dozen Peppercorns. 

Boil fast for ten minutes, and take off all scum. < 

' . . . / 

Reduce the heat, and simmer till the meat is done. '^ 

Serve on a hot dish, pour over a good Onion Sauce * 

(using the onions cooked with the meat) or Parsley 

66 

^? 



MEAT 

Sauce, or Caper Sauce. Garnish with Carrot and 
Parsley. If the vegetables are small and young 
put them in later to avoid overcooking. The liquor 
makes good broth. A small shoulder of lamb will 
boil as above. 

BOILED VEAL 

A knuckle, weighing 3 or 4 lbs. (mainly bone) 
has Oyster or Parsley Sauce poured over and served 
in a Sauce Boat. Small rolls of Bacon may be 
served with it. Garnish with Carrots and Parsley. 
Time to boil, about i^ hours. The liquor makes 
good Broth. 

BOILED BEEF 

Take 2 or 3 lbs. of Salt Brisket, which will 
require about an hour and a half to boil. Wash the 
meat, to remove the salt on the outside. Put it in 
an earthenware saucepan with warm water to cover 
and simmer slowly. Take off the scum as long as 
any rises. Put in Onions (stick with Cloves), whole 
Carrots and Turnips, being careful they are not 
overcooked. The meat being salted and hard 
requires very slow cooking in order to make it 
tender. Dish with the vegetables round, and serve 
with steamed floury Potatoes or Potato Snow. If 
the meat is to be eaten cold, cooking should con- 
tinue till the bones slip out easily. It is then 
pressed between two boards, with weights on the 
top, and left till next day, when it is trimmed and 
glazed. Some of the liquor if not too salt may be 
used in the making of Pea Soup. 

67 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

BOILED BACON 

Take a Corner, weighing 3^ to 4 IHs. which 
will require 2 hours to simmer, and about half an 
hour or more to rise to that point. This meat is 
cured and smoked, and dried, so will require some 
hours soaking according to dryness. Put the 
Bacon in a stewpan, cover with cold water, bring it 
very slowly to boiling point, skim thoroughly, and 
do not let the water again rise above simmering. 
An Onion, Carrot, and Turnip, and Peppercorns 
put in the second hour, improve the flavour. When 
the Corner is cooked take off the skin, cover thickly 
with Brown Crumbs. Garnish with Carrot and 
Parsley. Serve some of the liquor as gravy, 
improved with a small quantity of Meat Extract 
and Sherry. Serve broad Beans when in season. 
Butter Beans or Haricot Beans in the winter. 
Serve hot the first day. The lean and fat should 
be cut together to avoid waste. 

vSTEWED OX TAIL 

An Ox Tail Carrots, Onions, Turnips 

Dripping Seasoned Flour 

An Ox Tail requires about 4 hours stewing to 
make it tender. This is a brown stew. Cut the 
tail in neat pieces, and rub in seasoned Flour. 
Melt a little dripping in a fry pan, when smoking 
put in the meat, and brown on both sides. Have 
a Casserole part full of warm water, put the meat 
in as it is ready fried. Fry the onions in the fat | 
(adding a little more if necessary), tut in thick | 
rings if large, keep whole if small. Add these to 

6S 



MEAT 

the stew pan when brown. For the thickening, fry 
what is left of the seasoned Flour (or make more), 
in a little fat, smoothing it with a knife. When it 
is brown, pour in a teaspoon each of Worcester, 
Ketchup, Tomato and Anchovy Sauces, and add a 
little water from the stewpan. Stir this well, let it 
boil up, and add to the stewpan. Add Carrots and 
Turnips cut in slices, in the last hour. Remove all 
fat and scum as it rises. Simmer the Oxtail till the 
flesh will come off the bones easily. Serve in a deep 
dish and use soup plates. If a small quantity only 
is left over it may be thinned down next day and 
will make soup. 

STEWED STEAK 
Rump Steak, i lb. Onions, Carrots, Turnips 

The Steak may be cut in pieces, or left whole. 
Rub it in seasoned Flour, heat a little dripping in 
a casserole, put in the Steak, and fry brown on both 
sides. Lift it out, and keep warm on a plate. Fry 
a sliced Spanish Onion; when this is brown, stir 
in what seasoned Flour remains, and fry, smooth- 
ing it with a knife. Add a teaspoon each of 
Worcester, Ketchup, Tomato, Anchovy Sauces, as 
much water as is required, and boil for a few 
minutes. Put the Steak back in the pan, and 
simmer very gently for about two hours. When 
the stew is half done put in Carrots and Turnips 
cut in thick slices. Take off all scum as it rises. 

For lunch serve in a casserole, using small soup 
plates. Maccaroni and Tomatoes may be substi- 
tuted for Carrots and Turnips. 

6q 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

STEWED MUTTON 

Take the Best End of the Neck (chined), divide 
into cutlets, and cook as Stewed Steak. 

STEWED VEAL 

Veal cutlet in one or more pieces. Cook as 
Stewed Steak. Celery, Sausage, or Forcemeat 
Balls may take the place of the other vegetables if 
preferred. 

STEWED KIDNEYS 

Sheeps Kidneys, 6 Seasoned Flour 

Onion Sauces 

Scald and skin the Kidneys, cut them in halves, 
take out the small hard piece, and rub in seasoned 
flour. Heat a little dripping in a small casserole, 
put in the Kidneys, and fry them brown. Take 
them out without pricking, put on a plate and keep 
warm. Chop a small Onion, put it in the casseiole, 
and fry till brown; add the rest of the seasoned 
flour, and brown. Add a teaspoon each of Wor- 
cester, Ketchup, Tomato and Anchovy Sauces. 
Add gradually as much water as is required, stir- 
ring well to keep smooth. Return the Kidneys to 
the pan, and simmer for about an hour. Take off 
any scum. A little Sherry can be added if liked. 

STEWED LIVER 

Calves Liver is scalded, cut in slices, all the 
blood vessels removed, and cooked as Stewed Kid- 
neys. Serve wdth Bacon. Arrange the slices 

70 



MEAT 

neatly on a dish, pouring the gravy round, or serve 
in the casserole. 

IRIwSH STEW 

Scrag End Neck of Onions, Potatoes 

Mutton, 2 lbs. 

This is a white Stew. To be really good 
requires two or three hours simmering. The 
scrag requires very careful cleansing, all dried 
pieces cut off, and blood removed. Cut the meat 
into neat pieces, put in a casserole half full of cold 
water, and bring it slowly to the boil. Take off 
the scum. Add Potatoes and Onions, skinned and 
cut in thick slices. Salt and Peppercorns, and 
simmer gently. As the slices of Potatoes go to 
pieces it is a good plan to put in some small 
Potatoes the second hour to keep whole. Serve the 
Stew in the casserole and use soup plates. 

BRAISED VEAL (BONED) 

Neck of Veal Vegetables 

Sausages, 5^ lb. Glaze 

Buy the best end of the Neck of Veal, which has 
a skin on. It must not be chopped or chined. 
With a sharp knife start at the backbone and cut 
the meat off the bones. Remove all sinews, &c. 
Lay the meat flat on a board, with the skin under- 
neath. Place in the centre the Sausages (skinned). 
Roll up the meat, sew the edges together with a 
strong thread, leaving a long end of thread. Line 
a casserole just large enough to take the meat with 
slices of fat Bacon, lay in the meat, and add thick 

71 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

slices of Onion and Carrot. Cover the pan, and 
let this cook for about 20 minutes. Add water, or 
Stock (not too much, when ready, there should only 
be enough for a good supply of rich gravy). Sim- 
mer gently on the top of the stove for about 2 hours. 
Or put the casserole in the oven. Dish the meat, 
hold a fork close to it and pull away the thread 
carefully. Brush over with glaze, rinse the brush 
in the grav}^, and pour round. Garnish with the 
braised vegetables, some Green Peas, new Carrots 
or Cooked Tomatoes. The Veal may be pressed 
between two boards till cold, and glazed next day. 
The bones make excellent stock. 

BRAIvSED LAMB 

Bone a small shoulder, or take out the blade bone 
only. Stuff with a Forcemeat, sew it up and bind 
with tape a good shape. Braise for two hours or 
more, according to size, as Braised Veal. The 
gravy may be made sharp with Capers or Chopped 
Gherkin. 

FILLETS AND TOMATOES 

Fillet of Beet Tomatoes 

Butter Glaze 

Take slices of Fillet, as many as required, about 
three quarters of an inch thick. Cut the meat as 
nearly as possible into rounds, using tiny wood 
skewers, or sharpened matches to keep a good 
shape if necessary (these to be removed when dish- 
ing). Put a small quantity of Butter or dripping 
in a fry pan, when it smokes fry the Fillets 

72 



MEAT 

sharply, turning them without pricking when 
brown on one side. Fry also a small slice of fat 
for each Fillet. Arrange the Fillets down the 
centre of a narrow dish, put on each a piece of fat 
and brush over with glaze. Cook some very small 
Tomatoes in the oven, put one on each Fillet. 
Pour round the dish a little good gravy with glaze 
in it. At the moment of serving place on each 
Fillet a pat of Maitre d'Hotel Butter. Mushrooms 
or Spinach may take the place of Tomatoes. It is 
not possible to give a time for the cooking of 
Fillets, this depends on their thickness. Press the 
centre of the meat with the blade of a knife, it will 
feel fairly firm when sufficiently cooked. The 
Fillets should be juicy. 

LIVER AND BACON (Fried) 

Calves Liver, i lb. Seasoned Flour 

Bacon 

Fry as many rashers of Bacon as are required, 
take them out and keep hot. Scald the liver, cut 
in slices about half an inch thick, rub in seasoned 
flour and fry for about lo minutes, turning over 
with a knife. Arrange the slices neatly on a dish, 
pour off the fat, make a small quantity of gravy in 
the fry pan and pour round the meat. Add the 
fried Bacon. Liver must be well cooked, but not 
allowed to harden. It may also be stewed. 

FRIED CUTLETS 

Best End of Neck of Frying Fat 

Lamb, or Mutton Egg 

Seasoned Flour Breadcrumbs 

73 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Choose small meat, as many bones as Cutlets 
required. Have it chined and the rib bones 
chopped short. Divide the Cutlets with a sharp 
knife, trim well, leaving little fat, and scraping 
bare an inch of the end of the bone. Rub lightly in 
seasoned flour, brush over with egg, and cover with 
white breadcrumbs when ready to fry. Heat deep 
frying fat in an iron stewpan, when it smokes put 
in the Cutlets, two or three at a time. If not very 
thick they are ready when a golden brown. Drain 
on soft paper, keeping very hot. Arrange the Cut- 
lets down the centre of the dish, leaning on each 
other. Twist silver paper round the end of the 
bones. Serve with Green Peas, Spinach, Tomatoes, 
Mashed Potato, &c., on each side. Gravy or 
Tomato Sauce can be served, but are not necessary. 
Cutlets fried in deep fat do not become dry. 

VBAL CUTLETS 

Buy a pound or more of Veal Cutlet, which has 
little bone. Cut into rounds about half an inch 
thick. If the piece is thicker, cut it through, or 
bat it thin with the blade of a knife. Rub the 
rounds in seasoned flour, to which has been added 
a little grated Lemon Rind, Chopped Parsley and 
a pinch of Coralline Pepper. Cook as Mutton Cut- 
lets, but the colour must be a richer brown, as 
Veal requires to be well done. Serve with Spinach, 
Peas, or Mushrooriis, and Oyster Sauce. 



LAMBS' SWEETBREADS 

ov 

74 



Pour boiling water over the sweetbreads to 



MEAT 

blanch them. Simmer them gently in boiling 
water, or stock for 30 or 40 minutes. Take them 
out, and let them get quite cold. Now rub the 
sweetbreads in seasoned flour, &gg, breadcrumb and 
fry as Cutlets. Dish with Green Peas, and a little 
good gravy, half glaze. 

Or the sweetbreads may be boiled, and served 
with White Sauce poured over, or braised with 
vegetables. 

CALVES' SWEETBREADS 

These may be boiled in the same way, giving a 
longer time for simmering, according to size. After 
boiling, press the Sweetbread till cold; cut into 
neat pieces, flour, oiggy breadcrumb, and fry. 

GRITXED STEAK 

Rump Steak, i lb. Maitre d'Hotel Butter 

Salad Oil Seasoning 

The Steak should be about three quarters of an 
inch thick. The fire must be red and clear, or the 
gas grill must be red hot. Rub the bars of the 
grid with a piece of fat. Plump the Steak, and 
brush over with oil on both sides. The meat 
should scorch at once; turn with a knife when 
brown on one side. The Steak will take 12 
minutes, more or less, to grill, according to thick- 
ness. It should be very juicy when cut. Serve 
at once. The table must wait for a grill. Put 
small pats of Maitre d' Hotel or Anchovy Butter on 
the meat. Serve with Fried Potatoes and Baked 

75 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Tomatoes, or with Spanish Onions, cut in rings 
and fried. 

GRILLED CHOPS 

Chops are cut from Loin of Mutton, Lamb or 
Pork, and are grilled in the same way as Steak. 
A Pork Chop should be well cooked throughout. 
Mutton and Lamb Chops may be juicy according to 
taste. Serve with very hot plates. 

GRILLED KIDNEYS 

Scald and skin and split the Kidneys, brush over 
with oil. Grill with a piece of toast underneath to 
catch the gravy. Serve on the squares of toast and 
season well. Or with a Devil Sauce. 

Or buy the Kidneys in their own fat, and grill 
as they are, serving each one on a piece of toast. 
Time, about 15 minutes. A dish for lunch. Or 
Kidneys may be stewed. 

BRAISED CUTLETS 

Cut and trim the Cutlets, put in a baking dish 
or tin with the fat and trimmings, and a small 
piece of onion and carrot. Cover with a tin 
and braise gently in the oven, or on top of a 
stove for about half an hour. Press the Cutlets 
till cold between two plates. Brush over with 
glaze, cover the end of the bones with silver paper. 
Arrange the Cutlets down the centre of the dish, 
and put a Russian Salad round. Or Braised Cut- 
lets may be served hot. Brush over with glaze 
(without pressing) dish with hot peas, or new 
carrots. 

76 



POULTRY AND GAME 

IN towns Poultry and Game are sold prepared, 
ready for cooking, and when service and 
space are limited it is always advisable to 
send birds to a poulterer to be dressed, when 
possible. If this has to be done at home, a lesson 
should be taken in plucking, cleaning, and truss- 
ing. These processes require to be seen. The art 
of Boning birds is easily learnt by demonstration 
followed by practice, but it is not easy to make 
printed directions clear. 

To Choose a Fowl. When a fowl is young the 
end of the breast bone is gristle and bends easily, 
the legs are smooth and the claws break readily if 
turned back. For roasting, a bird must be young. 
An old bird will eat well if boiled, or braised very 
slowly for two or three hours, till tender, and 
flavoured with vegetables. Or it can be boned, 
stuffed and braised till tender, pressed between 
boards till cold, making a galantine. An old bird 
makes excellent soup. All poultry must be thor- 
oughly cooked, the time required must vary accord- 
ing to the size and age of a bird. 

Game is hung in order to make it more tender. 
The length of time depending on the situation of 
the larder, and on the temperature. If the weather 
is hot or damp, the birds are soon high. No game 

77 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

is fit for food that is tainted. Wild birds have as 
a rule no fat, therefore require to be well basted. 
Small birds are served on toast, and are often 
cooked on it. Potatoes served with game are 
always fried. 

ROAST CHICKEN 

Truss the fowl with steel skewers, these are 
easily removed. Place it on a stand in an earthen- 
ware dish, or baking tin. Cover with dripping, 
and put a piece inside the bird. The oven should 
be very hot for ten minutes, the heat may then be 
reduced. Baste constantly; if this is not possible, 
cover the breast of the bird as soon as it is brown, 
with a strong greased paper. Allow three quarters 
of an hour, an hour or more, for cooking, according 
to the size of the bird. Rolls of bacon, sausages 
(cooked with the bird), brown gravy, or bread 
sauce, may be served. But if the bird is fat and 
well roasted it is excellent served with a salad only, 
or garnished with watercress. 

BRAISED FOWL 

Take a casserole just large enough to hold the 
bird. Cover the bottom with slices of fat bacon, 
add thick slices of onion, carrot and turnip, and 
put in the fowl. Cover the pan and let it cook on 
the top of the stove for 15 minutes. Now add a 
pint (more or less) of hot water. Cover the breast 
of the bird with greased paper (to avoid drops from 
the lid) and simmer an hour or more according to 
the size and age of the fowl. Dish the bird^ wipe 

78 



POULTRY AND GAME 

the breast with soft paper and brush over with 
glaze. Put the vegetables round the dish ; take 
some of the stock for gravy, stirring it with the 
glaze brush. Serve with green peas. Sausages or 
bacon if wished. 

An old bird will require at least two hours 
braising. 

BOILED FOWL 

Put the neck, scalded feet, gizzard, &c., of the 
Fowl, in a casserole, and cover with cold water. 
Bring it slowly to the boil, take off the scum, and 
put in the Fowl, standing it on the bones. Rub the 
breast over with half a Lemon, and cover with 
greased paper. Put in Carrots, whole, or cut in 
thick slices, Turnips, an Onion or more, stuck 
with Cloves, Salt and Peppercorns, and simmer 
gently for an hour if the bird is young. Or two 
hours or more if an old bird. Dish the Fowl, pour 
over it a good White Sauce, decorate quickly with 
a hard boiled yolk of egg rubbed through a wire 
strainer, or with Chopped Parsley, or with small 
pieces of lean Ham or Tongue. 

Or the Chicken may be brushed over with glaze 
and served with a brown gravy. It will be noticed 
that the bird is steamed, and not boiled. The 
water touches, but does not cover it. 

Pickled Pork, Bacon, or a Bath Chap, may be 
served with a boiled fowl. Hot Beetroot, Peas, 
French Beans, or Carrots, as vegetable. 

ROAST TURKEY 

A Turkey for Roasting must be young (see 

79 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Roast Fowl). As soon as it is brown the breast 
should be covered with a greased paper. A Turkey 
requires carefully basting. It may be stuffed with 
Sausage Meat, a Forcemeat, or with Chestnuts. 
Bread Sauce or Cranberry Sauce may be served 
with it. 

BOILED TURKEY 

A Boiled Turkey (see Boiled Fowl) is covered 
with a good White, Celery, or Oyster Sauce, and 
is served with fried Sausages. The time required 
for cooking depends on the age and size of the 
bird. 

GUINEA FOWL 

A Guinea Fowl has little fat, therefore the breast 
is either larded or covered with slices of fat Bacon 
before roasting (see Roast Chicken). This bird 
requires careful basting ; a piece of dripping should 
be put inside. Bread Sauce and Fried Crumbs 
may be served with it. Mushrooms and Fried 
Potatoes. 

A Guinea Fowl can also be braised and glazed. 

ROAST DUCK 

A Duck is served with Brown Gravy, Apple 
Sauce, Green Peas or small new Turnips. Time 
for roasting from three quarters hour to one and a 
half hour, according to size and age. (See Roast 
Chicken.) A duck must be very well cooked. 

ROAST PIGEON 

(See Roast Chicken.) A Pigeon is roasted on a 

80 



POULTRY AND GAME 

piece of toast, served with rolls of Bacon, and with 
watercress round the dish. Mushrooms or Peas, 
and Potato Chips for vegetables. Time, about 20 
minutes to roast. 

BOILED RABBIT AND PORK 

A Tame Rabbit Onion Sauce 

Pickled Pork, i lb. Peppercorns 

Wash the Pork to remove the salt, put it in a 
saucepan, cover with water, and let it simmer for 
half an hour. Take off the scum. Cut off the 
head of the rabbit (it should not be sent to table). 
Truss it as near the shape of a chicken as possible. 
When the water in the pan boils put in the Rabbit 
with the Pork, add Onions (as many as are wanted 
for sauce), a Carrot, and Peppercorns, and simmer 
for an hour or more according to age. Take out 
the onions as soon as they are tender. Make 
Onion Sauce, and pour over the rabbit when dished. 
Garnish with Carrots and Parsley. Serve the Pork 
on a separate dish. A tame Rabbit has a better 
flavour and colour than a wild one; it is more 
tender, and therefore cooked more quickly. 

RAGOUT OF RABBIT 

A Rabbit, wild or tame Onions 

Seasoned Flour Sausage or Forcemeat 

Cleanse the Rabbit carefully, and cut off the 
head. Cut off the forelegs, the back legs (which 
are cut in halves). Cut through the flesh, and 
divide the backbone into four or five pieces. Rub' 
the pieces of Rabbit in seasoned Flour, and fry in a 

81 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

small quantity of hot fat in a fry pan till brown on 
both sides. Put the pieces of rabbit, as they brown, 
in a casserole with hot water to cover, and simmer 
gently for about two hours. Fry Button Onions, 
Forcemeat or Sausage Balls in the frypan, and add 
to the stew the second hour. Make thickening by 
frying seasoned Flour in the fry pan, with a very 
little fat. Smooth with a knife and let it brown 
(making a brown roux), add a teaspoon each of 
Worcester, Ketchup, Tomato and Anchovy Sauces, 
add a little stock from the stew pan ; bring it up to 
the boil and pour in with the Rabbit. Small 
Tomatoes are excellent with this stew, they should 
be placed on the top of the meat, and allowed time 
to cook, but not lose their colour, or go to pieces. 
Serve the Rabbit in the casserole. 

ROAST HARE 

A leveret should be chosen. The head must be 
cut off, the blood should not be used. Cleanse the 
Hare carefully. Put a pound of sausage meat in 
the body and sew it up. Truss the Hare as close 
and plump as possible, and tie on slices of fat 
Bacon. Place it in an earthenware dish, pour 
some milk round and place in the oven. Baste 
constantly. When the milk is exhausted use 
dripping to baste with. Time to roast, from one 
to one and a half hours. Make a good gravy, add a 
little Port Wine. Serve Red Currant or other Jelly 
with the Hare. Instead of Stuffing, Sausage or 
Forcemeat Balis may be browned, cooked with the 
Hare, and dished round it. 

82 



POULTRY AND GAME 

STEWED HARE 

A Hare is cut up in the same manner as a 
Rabbit, and stewed (as Rabbit Ragout). The 
casserole is put on the stove, or in the oven. 
Three or four hours gentle simmering will be 
required. Sausage or Forcemeat Balls are added 
the last hour, and Button Onions. The Gravy 
should be thick and rich. Add a wineglass of 
Port to it ten minutes before serving. Jugged 
Hare warms up well; or any left over may be 
thinned down for soup. The blood of the Hare 
should not be used. 

ROAST PHEASANT 

A Pheasant for roasting must be young. Tie 
fat Bacon over the breast, removing it later to let 
the bird brown. Roast quickly for 40 to 60 
minutes (see Roast Chicken). Serve with Bread 
Sauce, garnish with Fried Crumbs and Watercress. 

An old bird may be braised and glazed (see 
Braised Chicken). Or boiled and covered with 
Celery Sauce (see Boiled Chicken). 

GROUSE 

A Grouse is roasted on a piece of toast, with a 
lump of Butter inside, and requires good basting. 
Time, about 30 minutes sharp roasting (see Roast 
Chicken). Serve with Fried Crumbs^ Mushrooms, 
and Fried Potatoes. 

WOODCOCK AND SNIPE 
It is customary to cook these birds without 

83 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

drawing them, but to be wholesome they should 
certainly be cleaned as other game. Roast quickly, 
and serve on Toast. 

BLACK GAME 

Blackcock and Greyhen, Ptarmigan, take longer 
to roast in proportion to their size than other game, 
and being dry birds require very careful basting. 
Serve with good gravy, to which a little Port is 
added. An Orange Salad is excellent with Black 
Game. 

WILD DUCK 

A Wild Duck requires about 20 or 30 minutes* 
sharp roasting. The gravy should have a little 
Port in it, and a teaspoon of Red Currant Jelly. 
Garnish with Watercress. Serve with an Orange 
Salad. 



84 



VEGETABLES 

VEGETABLES are cooked in order to make 
them digestible and palatable, care being 
taken to preserve their food value, fla- 
vour and colour. Root Vegetables, Potatoes, 
Carrots, Onions, &c., are best when young 
and freshl}?- dug. When old they may be kept 
some time in a wire vegetable stand, but are 
not fit for use once they are soft. Roots re- 
quire some soaking, and well scrubbing before 
cooking. They should be boiled whole if pos- 
sible, choosing all of the same size for a dish. 
The saucepan should be kept well covered. 
Potatoes should be cooked in their skins or they 
lose much of their value. Large Potatoes are 
kept for baking or roasting, smaller ones, and 
those that have to be cut and trimmed, are 
steamed, mashed, fried, &c. Old Potatoes re- 
quire long cooking to make them floury. No 
times can be given for the cooking of vegetables. 
These may be large or small, young or old, 
quickly or slowly grown, close or open, and 
require more or less time accordingly. Thc 
vegetables are cooked when a skewer goes easily 
through the thickest parts. All root vegetables 
are improved by the addition of butter, when 
served. 

85 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

BOILED POTATOES (OIvD) 

Soak the Potatoes, and scrub them clean with 
a small brush. Put them in a saucepan with 
sufficient boiling water to cover; add a teaspoon 
of salt, cover, and cook quickly, till done. The 
skin can be removed before serving if liked 
Steaming is a better and easier process. 

STEAMED POTATOES 

Scrub the Potatoes, put them in a steamer over 
boiling water, cover and cook gently till done. 
Serve the Potatoes in their jackets for lunch. 
For dinner, remove the skins carefully, and 
sprinkle with salt. A steamer is a tin pan with 
holes in the bottom; it fits over an ordinary 
saucepan in which water is boiling. 

POTATO SNOW 

Take the skin off Steamed Potatoes, press 
them lightly through a masher into a hot vege- 
table dish. 

MASHED POTATOES 

Steam and snow the Potatoes as above. Add a 
good piece of butter or dripping, melted. Sea- 
son with pepper and salt; if liked, add a little 
cream or milk. Mix all lightlj^ with a fork, and 
serve very hot. Or the Potatoes may be mashed 
with a fork in the saucepan, adding the butter 
and seasoning. 

S6 



VEGETABLES 

POTATO MOULD 

Heap up the mixed and seasoned Mashed 
Potato on a greased fireproof dish. Rough it with 
a fork, put a little butter on the top, and brown in 
the oven, or under the grill. Or, put the Mashed 
Potato in a greased tin, bake in the oven till brown, 
and turn the mould out carefully. 

POTATO BALLS 

Add the yolk of an egg to the Mashed Potato, mix 
well, and leave it to get cold. Shape the Potaco 
mixture into balls, flour the outside lightly, brush 
over with eggy cover with bread crumbs. Fry the 
balls in deep smoking fat. Garnish with Parsley. 

POTATOES BAKED 

Take large Potatoes of an equal size. Scrub and 
dry them. Bake slowly for an hour or more. If 
the oven is very hot the skin should be pricked with 
a fork, or a slit made round the middle of the 
Potato, or the skin may burst in cooking. These 
Potatoes should be dry and floury, and are especi- 
ally good eaten with Cold Meat. 

Or Potatoes can be baked in a 'Devil.* This is 
a double pan, top and bottom alike, in unglazed 
earthenware. It is used on the top of a stove, or on 
a gas ring. The Potatoes are scrubbed, dried, and 
put in the Devil. The pan is turned over occasion- 
ally in order to cook the Potatoes evenly. They 
should be dry and very floury. No water is put in 
this pan, and it is never washed. 

87 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

NEW POTATOES 

New Potatoes should be quite small and waxy, 
Kidneys are the best. Soak in cold water and rub 
with a coarse cloth. Cook the Potatoes in boiling 
water, add salt, sometimes a sprig of Mint, and 
boil till a small skewer will just go through the 
centre. Drain, and put in a hot dish with a good 
piece of butter* New Potatoes are spoilt if over- 
cooked. 

FRIED POTATOES 

Old Potatoes are the best for frying. Wash and 
peel them thinly. Cut into thin slices, or into sticks, 
making Chips ; or cut thick slices, and each slice 
round and round, making ribbons; or cut in small 
quarters. Heat deep frying fat in a stewpan till it 
smokes. Dry the Potatoes, a few at a time, in a 
cloth. Put them into the smoking fat, using the 
frying basket if convenient. Raise the basket a 
little till all the bubbling is over, and give an occa- 
sional shake to separate the Chips. When the 
Potatoes are crisp and ^ golden brown, lift up the 
basket, holding it over the pan for a minute. Turn 
the Potatoes on soft paper to drain. The fat must 
boil up again, and the process repeated till all are 
cooked, keeping the Fried Potatoes hot on a tin. 
Serve at once on a dish paper, and sprinkle freely 
with salt. Fried Potatoes should not be covered. 

CARROTS (OLD) 

Scrub the Carrots. The skin is very thin, so 
they are scraped and not peeled, unless old and 

88 



VEGETABLES 

cracked. Cook the Carrots whole in boiling salted 
water till tender; if large they will take an hour. 
Drain in a colander. Cut the Carrots in rather 
thick slices, melt a good piece of butter in the 
saucepan, put in the Carrots and shake them over 
the fire for a few minutes, but do not brown. Put 
the Carrots in a hot dish, sprinkle with pepper and 
salt, sometimes a little finely chopped Parsley. 

CARROTS (NEW) 

Wash and soak the Carrots. Put them in boiling 
salted water, and cook till tender. Strain, take off 
the skins. Finish with butter, as with old Carrots. 
Or, put the Carrots in a hot dish, and the butter 
and seasoning over them. 

TURNIPS 

Turnips, especially if young, have a thick rind. 

''hen the top is cut off a line is seen, all rind out- 
ride this line must be removed or the Turnips are 
)itter. When Turnips are like a sponge or full of 
'strings they are only good for flavouring. Put the 
Turnips in boiling salted water, and cook gently 
till tender. Drain and finish with butter. Or, if 
large, Turnips may be mashed with a good lump 
of butter and seasoning. 

ONIONS 

Spanish Onions of a medium size are the best for 
boiling. Hold the Onion on a fork to take off the 
skin. Cook in boiling salted water, simmering 
gentlv for about an hour, or till tender, test with 

89 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

a skewer and do not over-cook. Drain well, and 
serve in a hot dish, with a good piece of butter. 

BAKED ONIONS 

Skin the Onions, put them on a fireproof dish 
with some dripping or butter. Bake in the oven 
till tender, basting occasionally with the fat, serve 
on the same dish. 

STEWED ONIONS 

Small or medium Onions can be stewed. Heat a 
little butter or dripping in a small casserole. Skin 
the Onions and let them brown over the fire in the 
fat. Add a small quantity of stock, and simmer 
till tender. Dish the Onions. Reduce the stock 
b37 boiling fast without a lid till little remains, stir 
in half a teaspoon of glaze. Pour this stock over 
the Onions. 

BEETROOT 

Wash carefully without breaking the skin, or the 
Beet will bleed. Cook gently in boiling salted 
water till tender. Take off the skin, cut in thick 
slices, pour melted butter over and serve hot. 
Small globe Beets are kept whole. Or eat the Beet- 
root cold with a dressing of vinegar. Beets are 
generally sold already cooked. 

PARSNIPS 

These are scraped or peeled, according to age. 
Cook in boiling salted water till tender. Serve 
with a little butter. Or, after boiling, the Parsnips 

90 



VEGETABLES 

may be dried, and browned in the oven with a little 
dripping. Or they may be mashed with butter, 
and well seasoned. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES 

Scrub and peel. Put a teaspoon of vinegar in 
the boiling salted water in which the Artichokes are 
cooked. Serve with melted butter poured over. 



GREEN VEGETABLES 

All green stuff should be fresh gathered, and 
should not be cooked unless it is crisp. To crisp 
up, cut off the end of the stalk and stand in cold 
water. To wash, cover with water and put in a 
spoonful of salt to draw out all insects. Look well 
over before cooking. Green vegetables are gener- 
ally over-cooked in this country, the texture, colour, 
and flavour spoilt. It is not possible to give accur- 
ate times for the cooking of green vegetables. They 
may be large or small, old or new, quickly or slowly 
grown, close or open, and accordingly require more 
or less time for cooking. Greens should be drained 
off immediately a skewer will go through the stalk. 
There should always be enough resistance in a 
cooked vegetable to require mastication. If not 
over-done, the water hanging on cooked vegetables 
is easily shaken off ; the juice in vegetables is valu- 
able. If Greens are fresh the water does not usually 
begin to smell till they are ready cooked. The 

91 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

water in which Greens have been cooked should be 
poured at once down a drain, and not in the sink. 
Green vegetables should be green when cooked. 
They are always put in salted and fast boiling 
water. The lid of the saucepan may be kept on for 
a minute or two after putting in the vegetables, but 
must be removed directly the water again boils. 
All scum should be taken off carefully. A lump of 
sugar should always be put in the water with green 
vegetables when cooking. 

CABBAGE 

Take off all coarse and discoloured leaves and 
cut off the bottom of the stalk. The Cabbage 
should lie for a short time in salted water in order 
to draw out all insects. Cut the bottom of the 
stalk across both ways about an inch deep, especi- 
ally if the heart is very close. Put the Cabbage in 
boiling salted water without a cover, taking off all 
scum. The water must boil fast all the time. Add 
a lump of sugar. Directly a skewer will go in 
the stalk, drain the Cabbage in the colander and 
shake off the water. Cut the Cabbage across both 
ways two or three times. Melt a good piece of 
butter in the pan, put in the cabbage, season, and 
shake over the fire for a few minutes. Dish and 
serve very hot. 

GREENS 

Greens are many and various. They are cooked 
and finished in the same way as Cabbage, and being 
small take a short time only. 

92 



VEGETABLES 

vSPROUTS 

These should be all of the same size. They are 
trimmed, cooked and finished as Cabbage. 

CAULIFLOWER 

A Cauliflower requires good soaking and looking 
over. It is cooked in the same way as Cabbage. 
The flower should be put downwards in the water 
at first, and care should be taken to avoid breaking 
it. All scum must be removed. After thoroughly 
draining, dish the Cauliflower, pour melted butter 
over, and season with pepper and salt. 

FRENCH CAULIFLOWER 

After draining the Cauliflower, cut it in neat 
pieces, and lay on a small fireproof dish. Pour 
melted butter over, sprinkle with brown bread- 
crumbs and grated cheese, pepper and salt. Brown 
under the grill, or in front of the fire, and serve on 
the same dish. 

CAULIFLOWER WITH CHEESE SAUCE 

Cauliflower Grated Cheese, i oz. 

W^hite Sauce vSeasoning 

Boil and drain the Cauliflower. Lay it on a 
greased fireproof or soufile dish. Make a good 
White Sauce, stir in the grated cheese and a little 
coralline pepper. Pour the sauce over the Cauli- 
flower and serve as a savoury vegetable. 

CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN 

After covering the Cauliflower with the Sauce as 

93 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

in the preceding recipe, sprinkle over a little more 
cheese, put some small pieces of butter on the top, 
and brown under the grill, in front of the fire, or 
in the oven. 

SPINACH 

Pick out all discoloured leaves, tear off the thick 
stalks and wash well (without bruising) in several 
waters, to get rid of grit. Spinach is cooked with- 
out water. Pack it in a small saucepan, pushing 
well down, as it reduces very much in cooking. 
Sprinkle with salt, and turn over occasionally. It 
is cooked when the fork will go through the leaves, 
and takes only a few minutes. Drain in a colander, 
and shake well. Put it on a board, make it into a 
ball, and cut through with a chopping knife again 
and again till it is fine. Melt a good piece of butter 
in the pan, return the Spinach, shake pepper and 
salt, and a pinch of white sugar. Stand the pan on 
the stove without a lid, shaking it occasionally till 
the Spinach is sufficiently dried. Serve very hot. 
Cream may be used instead of butter. Spinach 
when cooked should be a good green. 

SPINACH, A VEGETABLE ENTREE 

Dish the cooked Spinach piled up on rounds or 
squares of fried bread. Garnish with the yolk of a 
hard-boiled egg, rubbed through a wire strainer. 

SPINACH AND EGGS 

Make a bed of the cooked Spinach on a dish, and 
serve with poached eggs on it. 

94 



VEGETABLES 

GREEN PEAS 

Peas should be young, and freshly shelled. Cook 
in fast boiling salted water, add a lump of sugar, 
sometimes a sprig of mint, and cook without a lid. 
Drain directly they are tender. Serve in a hot dish, 
with a good piece of butter and a shake of pepper. 

PEAS AND BACON 

Cut thin slices of Bacon and fry till the fat is 
clear. Put the cooked Peas in the frying pan with 
the Bacon, and warm in the fat. Season well, dish 
together and serve very hot. Peas may also be 
served with Ham (see French Beans and Ham). 

PEA-PODS 

At the end of the season when the Pods will not 
£11, they can be picked young, strung, and boiled 
like French Beans, and finished with butter. 

FRENCH BEANS 

Cut off the stalk of French Beans and string 
down each side. Cook them whole if young. Or, 
cut across slant-wise three or four times. Or, slice 
finely. Boil quickly as Peas, drain, return to the 
pan, and finish with butter, cream, or good salad 
oil. Season well. 

FRENCH BEANS AND HAM 

Half-pound of cut Ham i lb. French Beans 

Yi Wineglass White Wine Butter 

Boil the French Beans, and finish with butter. 

95 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Take thin slices of Ham and make into rolls. Put 
the Ham in a soup plate with a little white wine or 
melted glaze, cover with another plate, and warm 
through over a saucepan of hot water. Arrange 
the ham on a dish with the Beans. Ham ready- 
cooked is sold at many good shops. 

BROAD BEANS 

Broad Beans should be young and fresh shelled. 
Boil as Peas, and serve with butter melted. Some- 
times sprinkle with chopped Parsley. Broad Beans 
are excellent eaten with Boiled Pork on Bacon. 

SEAKALE 

Wash the Seakale and scrape when necessary. 
Tie it in small bundles. Cook in boiling salted 
water till tender. Drain well, dish, and pour 
melted butter over. 

CELERY 

Celery may be cooked as Seakale. Or boil in a 
small quantity of stock, when it is tender put on a 
dish, reduce the stock, put in a little glaze, and 
pour over the Celery. 

MARROW 

A Marrow should be gathered small, young and 
green, and is best cooked whole. Peel the Marrow, 
and cook in boiling salted water till just tender. 
Avoid over-cookisg. Drain well, cut open the 
Marrow, take out the seeds, dish, and pour over 
butter melted, pepper and salt. 

96 



VEGETABLES 

ASPARAGUS 

Scrape the stalks of Asparagus, cut to equal 
lengths, tie in bundles, and stand in salted water. 
Cook in boiling salted water. If the pan is deep 
enough, stand the Asparagus with the heads out of 
water. Avoid over-cooking. Drain carefully and 
place on a hot dish. Serve butter melted in a 
sauceboat 

GREEN ARTICHOKES 

These should be young and small. Boil the 
Artichokes in salted Avater till just tender. Drain 
carefully, and squeeze slightly, as the water lies 
between the leaves. Serve with melted butter in a 
sauceboat. 

GREEN CORN 

Maize should be very young. The sheath and 
fibres are removed and the corn cooked in boiling 
salted water. Or the corn gives a delicious flavour 
to soup if cooked in it. Serve with butter. 

MUSHROOMS 

These should be fresh gathered and pink under- 
neath. Peel the Mushrooms and cut the stalks 
short. Melt butter in a fireproof dish, put in the 
Mushrooms, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and put 
a small piece of butter on each. Cover with greased 
paper, cook in a hot oven for lo or 15 minutes, or 
more, according to the size. Send to table in the 
dish in which they are cooked. Or they may be 
D 97 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

served on toast with some of the liquor poured over 
them. 

Mushrooms may be cooked in an earthenware 
stewpan with a little butter, a few drops of lemon 
juice, and seasoning. Or with a little milk and 
butter. 

MUvSHROOMvS AND BACON 

Heat the frying pan and put in the Bacon. When 
it is partly done put in the prepared Mushrooms 
and fry together. A good breakfast dish. 

TOMATOES 

The small bright red Tomatoes are the best and 
are cooked whole. Wipe with a cloth, take off the 
stalks. Melt a small piece of butter in a fireproof 
dish, put in the Tomatoes and cook in the oven till 
they are just soft to the touch. They are quickly 
done and should keep their bright colour. Or bake 
the Tomatoes in a souffle dish with butter, brown 
crumbs and grated cheese. Tomatoes may be fried 
with Bacon (see Mushrooms and Bacon). If the 
Tomatoes are too large to cook whole, cut in halves, 
and run out some of the juice and seeds before 
cooking. 

PARvSLEY FRIED 

Fried Parsley is served with Fried Fish, Rissoles, 
etc. Take good sized sprigs, wash and dry. When 
other frying is finished turn off the gas under the 
frying fat and put the Parsley in at once. It will 
make a great splutter. As soon as the fat quiets, 

98 



VEGETABLES 

collect the Parsley quickly with the frying spoon, 
and drain on paper. It cooks in about a minute. 
Fried Parsley should be green and crisp. 

DRIED VEGETABLES 

All dried vegetables require soaking in water for 
some hours to restore their lost moisture. They 
are cooked slowly without salt, and with the sauce- 
pan covered. 

HARICOT BEANS (DRIED) 

Soak I lb. of Haricot Beans for some hours, 
picking out any that are discoloured. Put them in 
a casserole with warm water and cook gently till 
tender. They will take about 2 hours' simmering. 
Strain and dish. Stir a large piece of butter in with 
the Beans and season well. Sometimes sprinkle 
with finely chopped Parsley. Cold Haricots are 
excellent mixed with a dressing of oil and vinegar 
and eaten as a salad. They also make a good soup. 

BUTTER BEANS (DRIED) 

These are soaked, cooked, and finished as Hari- 
cot Beans. 

GREEN PEAS (DRIED) 

These are soaked and finished as Haricot Beans. 
A sprig of fresh Mint put in the pan the last half 
hour. 



99 



SALADS 

THE following are the vegetables generally 
eaten as salads. Lettuce, Endive, Water- 
cress, small Cress and Mustard, Toma- 
toes, Cucumber, Celery, Celeriac, Beet, Radish, 
Horseradish, Spring Onions, etc. French Gar- 
deners have introduced , various other salads. 
The young leaves of Dandelion, and Nastur- 
tium, and Nasturtium Seeds are edible as salads. 
Salads are made of one or several vegetables, 
as convenient. All green stuffs for salads should 
be fresh gathered. To crisp up, cut off the 
end of the stalks, and stand in cold water. 
Salad Greens should be washed just before they are 
required (not soaked), well shaken, and dried. 
Lettuce is lightly torn, not cut. Beetroot (see to 
Boil), already cooked, is scraped, cut in slices, 
cubes, or (with a vegetable cutter) into balls. 
Cucumber, which should be ripe, is peeled, cut in 
slices, cubes, or balls. Radishes are scraped, served 
whole, or cut up. Horseradish and Celeriac are 
peeled and finely scraped. Tomatoes are served 
whole if small, or cut in quarters or slices, and 
some of the juice and seeds run off. If scalded they 
are easily skinned. 

SALADS OF COOKED VEGETABLES 
All cold cooked vegetables, provided they are not 

100 



SALADS 

watery, can be mixed with a dressing, and eaten 
as salad. 

GARNIwSH FOR SALADS 

A Garnish for salads is chosen with regard to 
colour, as well as to taste. Any of the following 
may be used. 

Hard boiled egg cut in slices or quarters. Olives, 
stoned. Capers. Gherkins, or any pickle. Boned 
Anchovies in oil. Coralline pepper. Finely 
chopped Parsley. 

SALAD DREvSSINGS 

The following are used in the making of a Salad 
Dressing. Olive Oil. Malt, Tarragon, and Chili 
Vinegars. Salt. White Sugar. Peppers. Eng- 
lish and French Mustards. Yolk of egg, raw and 
cooked. Cream can be used in place of oil. Lemon 
juice used sparingly in place of vinegar. The 
proportions of these ingredients is altered accord- 
ing to taste. 

vSALAD DRESSING (i) 

Malt Vinegar, i tea- Made Mustard, J^ tea- 
spoon spoon 

Tarragon Vinegar, i White Sugar, i teaspoon 

teaspoon Pepper, Salt 

Oil, 2 tablespoons 

Dissolve the seasonings in the Vinegar, and pour 
over the Salad. Now pour over the oil, and mix 
lightly and thoroughly. 

lOI 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

SALAD DRESvSING (2) 

Cream, 2 tablespoons Sugar, Salt, Pepper 

Mixed Vinegar, 2 tea- Mustard, ^ teaspoon 
spoons 

Mix the seasonings with the cream, and stir in 
the Vinegar drop by drop. Pour this over the 
Salad, and mix very well. 

MAYONNAISE DRESSING 

Yolk of Egg, raw Mustard, Salt, Sugar, 

Oil, 2 tablespoons Pepper 

Mixed Vinegars, 2 tea- 
spoons 

Put the yolk of egg in a small basin, stir con- 
tinuously round and round with a small wooden 
spoon. Add one tablespoon of the oil drop by drop, 
the Vinegars in which the seasonings have been 
dissolved, the second tablespoon of oil, drop by 
drop, stirring all the time. The dressing should 
be smooth, and of the consistency of cream. It 
should stand in a cool place. The yolk of a hard 
boiled egg may be stirred in with the raw egg if 
liked. A dessert spoon of boiling water may be 
carefully added to the dressing, and will make it go 
further. 

TARTARE DRESSING 

This is a Mayonnaise Dressing with the addition 
of a chopped Gherkins, or Capers. 





A SPRING SALAD 


Lettuce 


Beet 


Cucumber 


Radishes 




102 



SALADS 

Wash, dry, and tear up the Lettuce. Peel and 
cut up the Cucumber. Scrape and cut up the 
Radishes. Put all in a small bowl or on a dish, 
and mix well with No. i Salad Dressing. 

RUSSIAN SALAD 
Cold Vegetables Mayonnaise Dressing 

Take any cooked vegetables, Potatoes, Carrots, 
Cauliflower, Peas, Beans, Beet, Cucumber, etc., 
and cut in neat pieces. Put all in a dish. Pour 
the Mayonnaise Dressing over, and mix well to- 
gether. 

POTATO SALAD 

Take cold waxy Potatoes, cut them in rather 
thick slices and lay on a dish. Pour over Dressing 
No. 2. Mix well, and sprinkle with finely chopped 
Parsley. A Spring Onion cut in thin slices can be 
added if liked. 

LOBSTER SALAD 

A Lobster Tomatoes 

A Lettuce Tartare Dressing 

Take the Lobster from the shell, and cut in 
convenient pieces with a silver knife. Prepare the 
Lettuce and Tomatoes. Mix the Lobster with the 
Salad, and pile it up on a small dish. Pour Tar- 
tare or Mayonnaise Dressing over. The Lobster 
is more easily found if arranged in the centre of 
the dish, with the Salad round. Decorate with any 
Garnish, and sprinkle Lobster Coral or Coralline 

Pepper over the fish., 

103 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

SALMON MAYONNAISE 

Remove the skin and bones from cold Salmon, 
divide it into convenient pieces, or flake with two 
forks. Arrange the fish on a dish. Pour Mayon- 
naise Sauce over and put the Salad round. Decor- 
ate according to taste. Any cold fish can be served 
this way. 

CHICKEN SALAD 

Cold Chicken Mayonnaise Sauce 

Celery 

Remove the skin and bones from some cold 
Chicken, and cut the meat into small pieces. Cut 
an equal quantity of crisp Celery into small pieces. 
Mix the Chicken and Celery together. Pour over 
a good Mayonnaise Sauce, and stir thoroughly. 

MEAT SALAD 

Cold Meat Hard Boiled Eggs 

Ham or Tongue Salad 

Take any pieces of cold Meat, free from skin and 
gristle, and Ham or Tongue. Cut up small, mix 
with a good dressed Salad of cooked or raw vege- 
tables. Cut the Eggs in quarters and put round 
the dish. Or put the Meat in the centre and the 
Salad round. 

ORANGE SALAD 

6 Oranges Port Wine 

White Sugar 

Peel the Oranges, scrape them carefully to re- 
move all pith. Cut them in rough pieces with a 

104 



SALADS 

sharp knife, avoiding the core and pips. Put the 
fruit in a glass dish, sprinkle with a little sugar, 
according to the sweetness of the fruit. Pour over 
a tablespoon or two of Port Wine, and sprinkle with 
a little Coralline Pepper. Cover, and let the Salad 
stand for an hour or two. This Salad, though 
chiefly eaten with hot Wild Duck and Black Game, 
is excellent with cold Meat or Game. The Wine 
can be omitted. 

FRUIT SALAD 

Tomatoes, ^ lb. Bananas, 2 

Apples, 3 Salad Dressing 

Scald and skin the Tomatoes, and cut into rough 
pieces, pouring off some of the seeds and juice. 
Peel and core the Apples, and cut into small 
quarters. Peel the Bananas, and cut in thick slices. 
Pour over Salad Dressing No. i or No. 2, using 
Tarragon Vinegar only, and omitting the Mustard 
and Salt. This Salad is served with any cold Meat. 

For Fruit Salads for Dessert, see Sweet Dishes. 



105 



SAUCES— GRAVIES— FORCEMEATS 

THE making of a Sauce requires time and 
great care. Smoothness is a necessity, 
lumps mean undissolved and uncooked 
flour, and their sequence is indigestion. Sauces 
are not essentials, and a menu can easily be 
spoilt by the repetition of Sauces with the same 
foundation of butter and flour. Where time 
is valuable, Melted Butter (dissolved butter) or 
Maitre d'Hotel Butter are quickly prepared, and 
always liked as a Sauce; for sweet dishes a 
Jam Sauce has the same advantages. In making 
a Sauce, the butter is weighed with a generous 
hand, the flour is weighed short. Should a Sauce 
be too thick (flours vary), more liquor must be 
added. Flour requires to be cooked, and not only 
to be thickened. A small pan and a wooden spoon 
are used in Sauce making. The smooth blending 
of butter and flour (making the foundation of a 
Sauce, a Roux, white or brown), the careful adding 
of the liquor, and thorough cooking of the flour, 
forms an important process in cookery. The same 
process is used in Vegetable Soups, Soufiles, and 
many other dishes, and should be thoroughly 
mastered. 

MELTED BUTTER 

Put butter in a small sauceboat, stand it on the 

io6 



SAUCES— GRAVIES— FORCEMEATS 

stove till it dissolves, and skim. Serve with vege- 
table^, fish or meat. A teaspoon of Anchovy 
Essence may be added. 

MAITRE D 'HOTEL BUTTER 

Dissolve some butter, add chopped Parsley and a 
squeeze of lemon juice, and mix well. 

WHITE SAUCE 

Butter, Fresh, i oz. Milk or White Stock, 

Flour, I oz. or Corn- ^ pint 

flour Pepper, Salt 

Weigh a full oz. of butter, dissolve it in a small 
pan. Lift o£E the fire, and with a wooden spoon 
stir in a short ounce of sifted flour. When this is 
smooth, return to the fire and fry the butter and 
flour together for a minute, without colouring. Add 
the milk, a little at a time, stir continuously, and 
keep smooth. Boil the Sauce for about six minutes 
to cook the flour, season with pepper and salt. 
This is the foundation of many Sauces. Flour 
must always be sifted. All milk, or all white 
stock (meat, fowl or fish), or half milk and half 
stock may be used. A spoonful of cream stirred 
in at the last moment is a great improvement. 

PARSLEY SAUCE 

Wash and dry the Parsley, chop it fine, and stir 
into a White Sauce. 

EGG SAUCE 

Boil two eggs hard. Chop them up, stir into a 

107 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

White Sauce, and warm up. Add more milk if 
necessary. 

CAPKR SAUCE 

Chop Capers, stir into a White Sauce, adding 
with care a little of the vinegar. 

ONION SAUCE 

Boil Onions, chop, add to a White Sauce, stir 
over the fire to heat up again. 

CELERY SAUCE 

Cut up cooked Celery, and stir into a White 
Sauce. Warm it up again. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE 

Make a White Sauce, stir in Anchovy Essence to 
taste. Add a few drops of Carmine. 

SHRIMP SAUCE 

Pick cooked Shrimps, stir into a White Sauce, 
add a little Anchovy, and two drops of Carmine. 

OYSTER SAUCE 

Take fresh or tinned Oysters. If they are large, 
cut in halves with a silver knife, strain the liquor 
into White Sauce, and warm the Oysters in it. '^ 

DUTCH SAUCE I 

Make a White Sauce with half fish or other white •' 

los ; 



SAUCES— GRAVIES— FORCEMEATS 

stock, take it off the fire, put in a yolk of egg and 
stir vigorously till smooth. Warm the Sauce over 
the fire, and put in carefully a few drops of lemon 
juice. 

BROWN SAUCE 

Butter, I oz. Brown Gravy, 5^ pint 

Flour, I oz. Seasoning, Glaze 

Weigh a full ounce of fresh butter, dissolve it 
in a small saucepan. Lift it off the fire and with a 
wooden spoon stir in a short ounce of sifted flour. 
Fry till brown, but not burnt. Dissolve half a tea- 
spoon of glaze or Lemco in the gravy (or stock) , add 
it gradually to the butter and flour, stirring all the 
time, and keeping smooth. The Sauce must boil 
some minutes to cook the flour. Season with 
pepper and salt. Half a teaspoon each of Worces- 
ter, Ketchup, Anchovy or Tomato Sauces may be 
stirred in. Or a tablespoon of port wine. Or a 
teaspoon of red or black currant or blackberry jelly. 

PIQUANTB SAUCE 

Make a Brown Sauce. Chop up Capers, Gher- 
kin, or any pickles, add a little of the vinegar and 
stir well in. Make hot and serve. 

PANADA 

Butter, I oz. Flour, i oz. 

Milk or Stock, i gill Seasoning 

A Panada is a thick Sauce used for binding, as 
for Rissoles, Lobster Cutlets, etc. It is made as a 
White or Brown Sauce ; using half the usual amount 

109 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

of liquor, which may be milk, stock or gravy. The 
flour must be well cooked. 

MINT SAUCE 

Wash and dry fresh Mint, chop it finely ; put in 
a small tureen with white sugar, pour over sufficient 
vinegar, and let it stand for some hours. Stir well. 

APPLE SAUCE 

Peel, core, and cut up the Apples, put them in 
a pan with brown sugar to taste, and a little water. 
Cover, and cook gently till quite soft, stirring occa- 
sionally. 

BREAD SAUCE 

Milk, 5^ pint Bread Crumbs, 2 oz. 

Onion, small Cream, a tablespoon 

Peppercorns Salt 

Simmer the Onion and Peppercorns in the milk 
for ten minutes. Strain the milk over the bread- 
crumbs, put all back in the saucepan and let the 
Sauce thicken a little. Season well; add the cream 
or a piece of butter. 

MAYONNAISE SAUCE 

Eggs, 2 yolks Tarragon Vinegar, i tea- 
Oil, 2 tablespoons spoon 
Salt, Sugar Mustard 
Malt Vinegar, i teaspoon 

Work the yolks in a basin with a wooden spoon, 
put in half the oil, drop by drop. Dissolve the 
sugar, salt, and mustard in the vinegar, and add 
slowly, stirring evenly all the time; then drop in 

no 



SAUCES— GRAVIES— FORCEMEATS 

the rest of the oil. A dessert spoon of boiling 
water may be added carefully, and makes the Sauce 
rather thinner. 

TARTARE SAUCE 

This is Mayonnaise Sauce with Capers or 
Gherkins, finely chopped, stirred into it. 

DEVIL SAUCE 

Melt about 5^ oz. of butter in a small pan, add 
a teaspoon each of Mushroom Ketchup, Anchovy 
Sauce and Pepper Sauce, a pinch of sugar, salt, 
black pepper, and about a gill of brown gravy. 
Make very hot. The Sauce may be varied by using 
red wine and red currant jelly instead of gravy. 
Or by adding chopped Capers, Chillies, made mus- 
tard, or pickles. 

GLAZE 

Glaze cannot be made economically in a small 
establishment. It is best bought in a small glass 
jar. Stand the jar in hot water or on the lid of a 
saucepan till the glaze is sufficiently dissolved. Put 
it on Meat and Birds with a brush, which should 
be afterwards rinsed in stock to avoid waste. Or 
add the glaze to Gravies and Soups with a spoon. 
Glaze should be quite cold before putting away. If 
a little mould appears on the top of the jar, wipe it 
off with soft paper, it will not affect the rest. 

GRAVY 

All Gravies should be good, of some food value > 

III 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

When stock is poor, or a poor colour, add Lenico, 
glaze or Marmite. A little Worcester, Ketchup, 
Anchovy, or Tomato Sauce may be added (not 
enough of any one to taste). Or a teaspoon of port 
or sherry. Or a teaspoon of red currant or any 
fruit jelly, according to the dish with which the 
Gravy is served. Small joints make little gravy. 
Food already cooked makes no gravy. That added 
to it when warming up must be especially good. 

FORCEMEAT 

Breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. Herbs and Seasoning 

Fat Bacon, 2 ozs. ^SS 

Rub stale bread through a sieve, the quantity 
required. Chop the Bacon small ; add Parsley and 
herbs chopped and rubbed very fine, season, and 
bind with as much of the egg as is needed. This 
is a stuffing for Meat and Poultry. Also for mak- 
ing Forcemeat Balls. Suet may be used instead of 
Bacon. Mashed Potato instead of crumbs. 

CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT 

Chestnuts, ^ lb. Butter, i oz. 

Breadcrumbs, 2 oz. Egg, Seasoning 

Cut off the tops of Chestnuts, and boil or bake 
them for about ten minutes. Take off the skins 
and simmer the Chestnuts in stock or water till 
tender. Rub through a sieve, pound with the 
butter, add the crumbs, seasoning, a pinch of sugar 
and egg to bind. This is a stuffing for Turke^^, 
Fowl and Pheasant, and is made in the quantities 
required. The crumbs may be omitted. 

112 



^SAUCES— GRAVIES— FORCEMEATS 

MINCEMEAT 

Raisins, i lb. Mixed PeeK, ^ lb. 

Currants, i lb. Moist Sugar, i lb. 

Dates, 3^ lb. Lemons, 2; Orange, i. 

French Plums, Yz lb. Mixed Spice and ground 
Beef Suet, Yz lb. Ginger, i teaspoon 

Apples, I lb. Brandy, Y2 tumbler 

Stone the Raisins, Dates and Plums. Peel and 
core the Apples and cut in dice. Cut the Candie.d 
Peel small. Chop the Suet very finely. Put these 
all together and mince very thoroughly. Clean the 
Currants in a little flour, pick them. Add the cur- 
rants, sugar and spices to the chopped fruit, the 
thinly grated rind of the lemons and oranges and 
the juice. Mix all well together, add the brandy 
and stir well again. Press the Mincemeat closely 
into small jars, cover and keep in a cool dry 
place. In making Mincepies be liberal with the 
Mincemeat. 



SWEET SAUCES 

JAM SAUCE 

Raspberry Jam, 2 table- Sugar, 2 or 3 lumps 

spoons Lemon Juice 

Water, i gill 

Dissolve the sugar in the water, stir in the jam, 
and let it just boil ; add a squeeze of lemon juice 
and pour through a strainer. Add carmine if a 
poor colour. Serve hot or cold with puddings. 
Any jam or jelly can be used, or marmalade. A 

113 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

teaspoon of sherry may take the place of lemon 

juice. 

CHOCOLATE SAUCE 

Cocoa (good), I oz. Milk, 5^ pint 

White Sugar, i oz. Egg, i yolk; Vanilla 

Mix the cocoa and sugar with a little of the milk. 
Boil the rest of the milk, pour on to the cocoa, stir- 
ring well. Return to the pan and let it boil. Put 
the yolk in a small basin, pour the cocoa over very 
slowly, stirring hard. Return to the saucepan and 
stir or whisk over the fire to slightly thicken the 
Sauce, a few minutes only. Do not let it boil after 
putting in the egg. x\dd Vanilla Essence to taste. 

SABAYON SAUCE 

Eggs, 2 White Sugar, a good oz. 

Sherry, i gill 

Whisk the eggs and sugar well, add the sherry 
carefully. Stand the basin over a saucepan of hot 
water on the fire and whisk till the Sauce is thick. 
If cooked too much it will curdle. 

CUSTARD 
can be used as a Sauce. 

CREAM 

if obtainable is always preferred to a Sauce, 
and the cost is about the same. If too thick, 
it is carefully thinned down with a little milk. Or 
the cream may be whipped. 



114 



SAVOURY DISHES AND SAVOURIES 

MACCARONI CHEESE 

Maccaroni, 4 oz. Butter, i oz. 

Dry Cheese, 3 oz. Milk, yi pint 

Seasoning Flour, 3^ oz. 

BOIL water in a small stewpan, add salt, 
put in the Maccaroni, and boil till just 
tender. It should offer enough resist- 
ance when cooked to require mastication. Strain 
in a colander. Make a sauce, melting the butter 
in the stewpan, stir in the flour and cook, 
add the milk, stirring all the time, and keep- 
ing all smooth. Boil for about six minutes. 
Add the boiled Maccaroni to the sauce, the cheese 
grated, pepper, caj^enne, and salt, a little made 
mustard (if liked), and stir till quite hot. Serve 
on a fireproof dish. Some tomato essence may be 
stirred in, or small tomatoes, skinned, cut in 
quarters, and cooked in the sauce before adding the 
Maccaroni. The Maccaroni may be Pipe, Ribbon, 
Spaghetti, or any other. 

MACCARONI AU GRATIN 

Cook the Maccaroni and sauce as Maccaroni 
Cheese, stirring in half the cheese only. Place it 
in a greased fireproof dish, sprinkle with the 
remainder of the cheese, some brown bread crumbs, 
and small pieces of butter. Put in a hot oven, under 

115 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

the iron sheet, to brown .quickly, or under the gas 
grill. Serve ver3^ hot. 

TOMATOES AU GRATIN (see Vegetables) 

CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN (see Vegetables) 

SAVOURY RICE 

Rice, y^ lb. Tomato Pulp, 2 table- 
Grated Cheese, 2 oz. spoons 
Stock Seasonings 
Butter, I oz. 

Boil half a pound of Rice in boiling salted water 
till nearly soft. Strain it and put back in the pan 
with a little good stock, which the Rice must absorb. 
The pan must be uncovered. Stir in the butter, 
grated cheese, tomato, and season well. Pile up 
on a very hot dish, and serve very hot. 

CHEESE PUDDING 

Milk, Yi pint Butter, i oz. 

Breadcrumbs, 3 oz. Dry Cheese, 2 oz. 

Eggs, I or 2 Seasonings 

Melt the butter in the milk, pour it warm over 
the crumbs. Stir in the cheese, mustard, pepper, 
and salt, and the beaten yolk of eggs. Whisk the 
whites to a stiff froth, and fold them in carefully. 
Pour into a buttered souffle or pie dish and bake for 
tvv'enty or thirty minutes. Serve at once. 

CHEESE AIGRETTES 

Butter, Yi oz. Cheese, i oz. 

Water, i gill Fine Flour, i oz. 

Egg, I Seasoning 

116 



SAVOURY DISHES AND SAVOURIES 

Put the butter and water in a small pan. When 
melted, lift off the fire and sift in the flour, beating 
it till quite smooth. Return to the fire, and boil 
for about six minutes, till the sides of the saucepan 
are left clean. Put in a basin, when a little cool 
beat in the €^gg very thoroughly, keeping it all 
light. Fold in the cheese, pepper and cayenne. 
Let this get quite cold. To fry, heat the frying 
fat in a stewpan till it smokes. Beat up the batter 
again, take out small pieces with a teaspoon and 
put in the boiling fat, not more than six or eight at 
a time. When the Aigrettes are a golden brown 
(do not let them burst), take out with a wire spoon 
and drain on soft paper. The fat must smoke 
again before more batter is put in. Serve piled up 
on a dish paper, and garnish with parsley. 

CHEESE STRAWS 

Flour, 4 oz. Cheese, 2 oz. 

Butter, 2 oz. Egg, i. 

Sift the flour, rub in the butter, add the grated 
cheese, cayenne, and black pepper. Mix to a dry 
paste with as much tgg as is required. Roll out 
about an eighth of an inch thick, cut into small 
sticks of even sizes, lift up with a knife, put on a 
tin, and bake a light brown. Serve hot or cold. 
Tie in small bundles with narrow ribbon. 

Cheese for grating may be Parmesan, Gruyere, 
Cheddar (mixed), or any other that is dry, and not 
green. 



117 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

SAVOURIES 

Savouries are arranged according to the material 
available, and may be varied indefinitely. Scraps 
of meat, game, fowl, fish, etc., can all be worked 
in with a little thought. Savouries are highly 
seasoned, and served very hot, or cold. The 
foundation is usually a round, square, finger, or 
crescent of brown bread buttered, toast, fried bread, 
pastry, plain or savoury biscuits. Savouries may 
be garnished with any of the following : — Hard 
boiled egg. Coralline pepper, Parsley, small Mus- 
tard and Cress, Capers, Pickles. 

ANGELS ON HORSEBACK 

Oysters, 6 Fried Croutes 

Bacon Cayenne 

Cut very thin slices of fat Bacon, bat them out 
thinner with a knife. Season the Oysters and wrap 
one in each slice of fat. Place each on a round of 
toast or fried bread, and cook in the oven for about 
five minutes, or till the bacon fat is clear. Season 
with cayenne and black pepper, and serve very hot. 
Or these may be covered and cooked over a gas 
ring. 

DEVILLED ROES 

Take the soft Roes of fresh herrings, fry lightly 
in butter, season highly with salt, pepper and 
cayenne. Serve very hot on fried bread or toast. 

DEVILLED SHRIMPS 

Take cooked shrimps which are shelled, warm in 

ii8 



SAVOURY DISHES AND SAVOURIES 

butter. Add a drop of lemon juice, season highly 
with pepper and cayenne, and serve on croutes or 
buttered toast. 

DEVILLED SARDINES 

Take Sardines, warm in some of their own oil, 
add a drop of lemon juice, season very highly, serve 
hot on toast. 

HAM TOAST 

Take Ham, or Tongue, and mince very finely. 
Warm in a small pan with a piece of butter. Add 
a few chopped Capers, or a little Chutney, pepper, 
and cayenne. When quite hot pile on buttered 
toast or fried bread. 

Scraps of Game, Chicken, Fish can be used up in 
the same way. 

TOMATO TOAvST 

Butter, y^ oz. Grated Cheese, 2 oz. 

Tomato Conserve, i Peppers 
tablespoon 

Melt the butter, add the thick Tomato Sauce, the 
grated cheese, a pinch of black and Coralline 
peppers, and make very hot. Pour on fried bread 
or toast. 

ANCHOVY FINGERS 

Pu5 Pastry Egg 

Anchovies Coralline Pepper 

Cut fingers of Pastry, brush over with ^%%, lay 
a fillet of anchovy (preserved in oil) on each finger. 
Cover with pastry, brush over with ^%gy and bake 

119 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

lightly. Garnish with Coralline pepper and 
parsley. 

DEVILLED BISCUITS 

Thin Captain, Water, or Cheese Biscuits can, be 
used. Make the biscuits very hot in the oven, or 
on the grill. Spread with Anchovy, Bloater, or 
Parsley butter, sprinkle with cayenne, and serve as 
hot as possible. 

ANCHOVY BUTTER 

Work fresh butter and Anchovy Paste well 
together. Or Bloater Paste, or any potted fish or 
meat. 

PARSLEY BUTTER 

Wash and dry Parsley, and pick it off the stalks. 
Press into a small ball, and cut again and again till 
very fine. Pound it in a small mortar with fresh 
butter, working the two well together. 

MEDICI BISCUITS (COLD) 
Cheese Biscuits Butters 

Make tiny balls of Fresh, Anchovy, and Parsley 
Butter, working a little pepper in each. Put a red, 
green, and yellow ball on each biscuit. 

SARDINE FINGERS 

Sardines Hard Boiled Egg 

Brown Bread Parsley 

Butter some fingers of brown bread. Skin the 
Sardines, take out the backbone, and lay a fish on 

120 



SAVOURY DISHES AND SAVOURIES 

each finger. Chop the white of egg, nib the yolk 
through a fine strainer, cut the Parsley very fine. 
Decorate the Sardines with the three colours, and 
shake Coralline pepper on the white of egg. 

SAVOURY SANDWICHES 

Chop finely any pieces of cold Chicken, Meat, 
Ham or Tongue, and pound in a mortar with one 
or two hard boiled yolks, a piece of butter, some 
chutney, pepper, and salt. Spread rather thickly 
on thin white or brown bread and butter; cover, 
and press the pieces together. Cut in rounds, 
squares, triangles, fingers, or crescents. 

SARDINE SANDWICHES 

Skin the Sardines and take out the backbone. 
Pound the fish in a mortar with a hard boiled yolk 
of eggy a little oil from the tin, pepper and salt. 
Make the sandwiches as above. Sandwiches must 
always be packed in greaseproof paper. 



121 



A 



EGGS 

LL eggs must be fresh, or they are 
unwholesome as well as unpalatable. 

BOILED EGGS 



Boil water in a small pan, put in the eggs care- 
fully, and look at the clock, allowing from 3/^ to 
45^ minutes according to taste. Take out the eggs 
with a spoon. 



POACHED EGGS ? 

Boil water in a shallow pan, add salt and a little 
vinegar or lemon juice. Break the eggs in carefully 
(or into a small cup first). Simmer till the white 
is set, lift with a wire spoon, and drain off all the 
water. Trim the edges if necessary. Serve on 
buttered toast, or on buttered Anchovy Toast. Or 
on Spinach (see Spinach). 

EGGS IN GRAVY 

Poach the eggs in good stock. Dish on rounds 
of toast, placed on a small fireproof dish. Pour off 
nearly all the stock, dissolve in the remainder a 
little glaze, pour this very carefully with a spoon 
over the eggs, and serve. 

ii 



EGGS 

BAKED EGGS 

Melt a little butter in a small fireproof dish. 
Break in as many eggs as are required. Put a 
small piece of butter on each and stand in a 
moderate oven till the white is set. 

Or cover and stand on the stove, or on a gas ring 
with an asbestos mat under the dish. 

EGGS IN SMALL CASSEROLES 

Melt a little butter in small casseroles or fireproof 
soufile cups ; put an egg in each. Sprinkle with 
brown crumbs, chopped parsley, grated cheese, and 
put a small piece of butter on each egg. Or a 
spoonful of cream or milk. Stand the cups in a 
fry pan, pour boiling water round, cover and sim- 
mer till the white is set. 

FRIED EGGS 

Heat deep fat in a fry pan till it smokes. Break 
in the eggs carefully, avoiding splashing. As soon 
as the white is set, lift the eggs with a wire spoon, 
and drain. Fry thick squares of stale bread till 
brown. Serve an egg on each. 

EGGS AND BACON 

Heat a fry pan, cut the bacon thin, taking off all 
rind, and fry till the fat is clear. Keep it hot on a 
hot dish. Tip the pan a little, and break the eggs 
carefully into the bacon fat. Fry till the white Is 
set ; lift with a wire spoon, and serve with the bacon. 
Triangles of bread may be fried brown in the pan. 

123 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

BUTTERED EGGvS 

Eggs, 3 Toast 

Milk, 3 teaspoons Butter, i oz. 

Make three or four rounds of toast, butter and 
keep them hot. Beat the eggs and milk lightly. 
Put the butter in a small saucepan, add the eggs, 
pepper and salt, and stir with a small' wooden spoon 
till the eggs begin to thicken. Pour over the toast 
and serve at once. A spoonful of tomato essence 
may be added to the eggs for a change, or finely 
chopped parsley may be sprinkled over. 

EGGS IN SAUCE 

Boil eggs for four and a half minutes, take off 
the shells. Put the eggs in a small deep dish (or in 
saucers) . Have a good White Sauce ready and pour 
over. Garnish with chopped parsley and Coralline 
pepper, and serve at once. 

Or the eggs may be hard boiled (ten minutes 
cooking). The Sauce may be Tomato, Anchovy, 
Cheese, Curry, or a good gravy with a little glaze 
dissolved in it. 

EGG CUTLETS 

Hard Boiled Eggs Egg and Breadcrumbs 

White Sauce (Panada) Frying Fat 

Boil the eggs for ten minutes, and stand in cold 
water, unless they are to be used at once. Take off 
the shells and chop up rather coarsely. Make a 
Panada (or a little cold White Sauce can be used), 
stir in the chopped &gg and season well. Smooth 

124 



EGGS 

the mixture on a plate, leave it to get quite cold. 
Cut across, and divide it into quarters, again into as 
many cutlets as are required. Shape on a board, 
rub lightly in flour, brush over with egg^ cover 
with breadcrumbs, and fry a golden brown in deep 
smoking fat. Drain, dish on a paper, garnish with 
parsley. 

vSCOLLOPED EGGS 

Cut hard boiled eggs in large pieces, mix with a 
little sauce, and season well. Put into greased 
Scallop shells, one egg to each ; sprinkle with brown 
bread crumbs, put a small piece of butter on each, 
and heat through. 

SCOTCH EGGS 

Hard Boiled Eggs (4) Egg and Breadcrumbs 

Sausages, 5^ lb. (4) Frying Fat 

Boil the eggs for ten minutes, take off the shell. 
Cover each one with a sausage, previously skinned 
and flattened out. Work to a good shape, roll in 
a little flour, brush over with egg, cover with white 
crumbs, and fry in deep smoking fat, cooking not 
more than two at a time. Drain on soft paper. 
Cut the eggs across in halves, and serve hot with a 
little good gravy flavoured with tomato. Or serve 
cold, garnished with small cress. 

STUFFED EGGS 

Boil the eggs for ten minutes. Put in cold water. 
Take off the shell, cut across in halves. Take out 

125 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

the yolk, pound it with anchovy paste, or potted 
fish, potted him or tongue, chopped parsley, etc* 
Fill the whites with the mixture, and dish with 
small cress round. Or serve on brown bread and 
butter. 

SAVOURY OMELETTE 

Eggs, 3 Fresh Butter, or Lard, 

Milk, 3 teaspoons ^ oz. 

Parsley and Herbs 

Divide the eggs; beat the yolks with the milk, 
add pepper and salt, finely chopped parsley and 
herbs. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth. Heat 
the butter in a fry pan. Fold the whites lightly 
into the yolks. Lift the pan when the butter 
smokes, pour in the eggs, and cook a minute or 
two till the bottom is set ; try the edge with a spatula. 
Add a little more fat at the side of the pan if it is 
necessary. Hold the pan under the grill or before 
the fire to lightly set, but not harden, the top of 
the omelette. Slip it on a hot dish, folding it over 
at the same time. Garnish with parsley, and serve 
immediately. The table must wait for an omelette. 

Small quantities of cooked fish (flaked), shrimps, 
or stewed kidneys (chopped and warmed), etc., may 
be put into an omelette at the moment of folding. 

An omelette can be made with one, or any number 
of eggs. 

CHEESE OMELETTE 

Stir finely grated Cheese, a pinch of salt, 
cayenne and black pepper into the yolk of eggs. 
Mix and cook as Savoury Omelette. 

126 



EGGS 

vSWEET OMELETTE 

Stir white sugar and Vanilla Essence into the 
yolk of eggs, mix and cook as Savoury Omelette. 
A spoonful of warm jam may be put in at the 
moment of folding. Sprinkle the omelette with 
icing sugar. 



127 



SWEET DISHES 

JUNKET 

Rennet (tablets) Brandy or Rum, i tea- 

New Milk, I pint ' spoon 

White Sugar, i teaspoon 

PUT the new milk in a jug; cover, and 
stand in a saucepan of hot water till it 
reaches blood heat, a few minutes only. 
Break up the rennet, and dissolve in a teaspoon 
of water. Put this in a china or glass bowl 
or dish, pour the milk over and stir in the 
brandy and sugar. Let it stand in the kitchen, 
without moving, till the Junket is set. Whip cream 
lightly (3d worth) and pile on the top. Or clotted 
cream. If the milk is made too hot (it will be hotter 
at the bottom than at the top of the jug), it will not 
set firmly. Vanilla essence can be used instead of 
brandy ; or nutmeg grated over after the Junket has 
set. 

SOUR MILK 

Put any uncooked milk left in a small glass dish, 
cover with a paper, and stand a day or more on the 
rack above the stove, till quite thick. Eat with 
white sugar. This is a hot weather dish. 

128 



SWEET DISHES 

RICE PUDDING 

Carolina Rice, 2 oz. Milk, i pint 

vSugar, 2 teaspoons Butter, y^ oz. 

Salt Flavouring 

Melt the butter in a souffle or pie dish, and run 
it up the sides. Wash the rice in two or three 
waters, put it in the dish with the white sugar, a 
pinch of salt. Pour in the milk, and grate a little 
nutmeg on the top. Bake in a moderate oven for 
thirty or forty minutes. Milk puddings are creamy 
if cooked slowly. They are best made without 
eggs. All puddings should stand for some minutes 
to set after taking out of the oven. Over cooking, 
or cooking too quickly must be avoided. 

This milk pudding may be taken as a standard, 
and the same proportions and method used in the 
making of others. 

Tapioca should be crushed with a rolling pin. 

Sago may be large or small. 

MaccarOj^ji if large or stale must be soaked. 

Vermiceli.! and Spaghetti make good puddings. 

Nut butter, suet finely shred, or dripping, may 
be used in place of butter. 

Lemon or orange rind, cut very thin, any 
essences or spices may be used for flavouring. 

RICE MILK 

Carolina Rice, 2 oz. White Sugar, 2 tea- 

Milk, I pint spoons 

Salt Butter, ^ oz. 

Lemon Rind 

Put the milk in an earthenware, or other pan. 
E 129 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

When it nearly boils add the washed rice, salt and 
sugar. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon, and 
simmer slowly till the rice is soft and creamy. Stir 
in the butter and grated lemon rind and serve hot 
or cold. If this is cooked in a double or porridge 
pan it requires less attention. It is a good plan to 
put an asbestos mat under the saucepan. Other 
starch foods, as in the preceding recipe, may be 
cooked in the same way. 

RICE MERINGUE 

Rice, 2 oz. White Sugar, 2 tea- 

Milk, I pint spoons 

Egg, I Butter, ^ oz. 

Salt and Flavouring 

Cook the rice, as Rice Milk. Take it off the fire, 
cool for a few minutes, and stir in quickly the yolk 
of an e:gg and half a teaspoon of Vanilla Essence. 
Put this into a greased souffle dish. Beat the white 
of egg to a stiff froth, pile it on the rice, sift over 
white sugar, and place in a moderate oven till the 
meringue is set. Serve hot or cold. A layer of jam 
may be put under the meringue, or a little stewed 
apple or other fruit. 

BLANCMANGE 

Cornflour, 2 oz. White Sugar, 2 tea- 

Milk, I pint spoons 

Flavouring 

Stand the milk on the stove in a small earthen- 
ware or other pan, with a piece of lemon rind cut 
very thin. Mix the cornflour and sugar smooth in 

130 



SWEET DISHES 

a small basin with a little extra milk or water. 
When the milk nearly boils take out the rind, pour 
slowly over the cornflour, stirring it well. Return 
all to the pan, stir carefully and continuously with 
a wooden spoon, as it bums easily. Boil for eight 
or ten minutes, till the sides of the pan are left 
clean. Pour the blancmange quickly into a wet 
mould or souffle dish. Do not turn it out till quite 
cold. Serve with jam on the top or round; or 
whipped cream. 

CHERRY MOULD 

Make as Blancmange, colour with carmine, when 
nearly cooked flavour with a few drops of Cherry 
Essence. Put glace cherries in the bottom of a 
large, or several small darriole moulds, and pour 
the mixture carefully in. Turn out when cold. 
Whip half a gill of cream and put on the top, or 
round the moulds. 

CHOCOLATE MOULD 

Cornflour, i]4 oz. White Sugar, i oz. 

Good Cocoa, i oz. Milk, i pint 

Vanilla Essence 

Mix the cornflour, cocoa, and sugar smooth with 
a little extra milk or water. Make as Blancmange, 
and flavour liberally with Vanilla Essence. Pour 
into a wet souffle dish, or plain mould. Serve with 
whipped cream piled on the top. 

CUSTARD 

Milk, I pint White Sugar, i oz. 

Eggs, 3 Flavouring 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Beat the eggs in a basin, leaving out two of the 
whites, add a pinch of salt. Put the milk in a 
saucepan, stand it on an asbestos mat and heat it 
over the fire till nearly boiling. Stir the eggs 
vigorously, pour the milk on to them slowly, and 
add the sugar. Return to the pan, stir with a 
wooden spoon over gentle heat till the custard 
thickens a little, coating the spoon. (If a custard 
boils it curdles.) Lift off the fire and continue 
stirring for a few minutes. Add Vanilla or other 
flavouring. Serve the custard in small glass cups. 
Or in a glass dish, and float meringue cases on the 
custard ; or Savoy Biscuits with jam between. 

Grated coconut stirred into the hot custard makes 
a Coconut Custard. 

CUSTARD (BAKED) 

Mix the eggs and warm milk, as in the preceding 
recipe. Grease small souffle cups, pour in the 
custard, and bake till set in a moderate oven. A 
few minutes only. Or bake in a souffle dish for 
about twenty or thirty minutes. 

BATTER PUDDING (BAKED) 

Flour, 3 oz. Milk, 5^ pint 

Egg, I Butter or Dripping, i oz. 

Sift the flour and salt in a basin ; make a hole in 
the centre, put in the egg and a little of the milk. 
Work from the middle with a wooden spoon, keep- 
ing perfectly smooth, and light, and adding a little 
more milk, as required. When all the flour is 
mixed beat vigorously till light. Add the rest of 

132 



SWEET DISHES 

the milk and let the batter stand for an hour or two. 
Melt the dripping in a baking tin, or earthenware 
dish, running it well up the sides; pour in the 
batter and bake for about three quarters of an hour. 
The time must vary with the size of the' tin. When 
ready, move the pudding to a hot dish, and cut up 
to eat with meat. Or serve in the baking dish, and 
eat with brown sugar or syrup. 

BATTER PUDDING (STEAMED) 

Flour, 4 oz. Milk, ^ pint 

Egg, I Salt 

Make a batter as for Baked Batter. Grease 
thoroughly a souffle dish, enamel, or china basin. 
Pour in the batter, cover with greased paper, and 
steam gently for about an hour. Take off the 
paper, and let the pudding stand a minute to 
settle. Put a dish over the basin and turn over 
carefully. Serve with butter and brown sugar, jam 
or golden syrup. 

PANCAKES 

Flour, 4 oz. Milk, ^ pint 

Egg, I Lard 

Make the batter as for Steamed Batter Pudding, 
and let it stand to thicken. Take a small shallow fry 
pan, rub it out with soft paper. Heat a small piece of 
lard in it, till the smoke rises. Lift the pan up, 
and pour in enough batter to cover the bottom. 
Fry till a light brown underneath, turn with a 
spatula (a flexible flat bladed knife) and lightly 
brown the other side of the pancake. Turn over on 

133 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

to crushed soft paper, fold in three, put on a hot 
dish, and keep warm. Pancakes take a long time 
unless cooked with method. It is a good plan to 
measure out the batter for each into a small cup; 
about 2 tablespoons, or more. Immediately a pan- 
cake is turned out of the pan, a small piece of lard 
should be put in to get hot, the next batter poured 
in at once, and while it is frying the preceding 
pancake is folded. Pancakes should be served 
quickly, a second dish can follow. Serve with 
quarters of lemon and white sugar. 

FRITTERS 
Pancake Batter I^ard 

Heat lard in a frying pan, enough to cover the 
bottom, till it smokes. Pour in tablespoons of 
batter, a few at a time. When the fritters are a 
golden brown, lift them with a frying spoon, and 
drain on soft paper. Serve at once on a dish paper 
sprinkled with sugar. The dish and plates should 
be very hot. 

FRUIT FRITTERS 

Peel and core some apples, cut in thick slices, and 
rub in white sugar and powdered cinnamon. Make 
a Pancake Batter, dip in the slices of apple, and fry 
as Fritters. Or bananas cut lengthwise or other 
fruit. A Frying Batter (see recipe) can be used if 
preferred to the Pancake Batter. 





GERMAN FRITTERS 


Stale Bread 


Milk 


Bgg 


Jam 




134 



SWEET DISHES 

Cut wide fingers of bread, about half an inch 
thick, or more. Beat up the egg, add a little milk, 
a pinch of sugar, and powdered cinnamon. Dip the 
fingers in the custard, roll lightly in fine bread 
crumbs, and fry a golden brown. Serve very hot, 
a spoonful of jam on each. 

LEMON SOUFFLE (STEAMED) 

Butter, I oz. White Sugar, i oz. 

Cornflour, i oz. 2 or 3 Eggs 

Milk, I gill Lemon 

Melt the butter in a small saucepan, lift it off the 
fire and add the sifted flour. Return to the fire, 
stir well, pour in the milk slowly, and cook till 
thick and smooth. Turn into a basin. Divide the 
eggs ; stir the yolks into the flour and milk, beating 
vigorously and keeping it quite smooth. Add the 
sugar, and grated rind of one or two lemons (the 
yellow only). Beat the whites of eggs till stiff, 
and fold very lightly into the mixture. Pour at 
once into a prepared souffle dish and steam gently 
for twenty or thirty minutes. Remove the paper 
at the dining room door, and serve quickly. Or 
serve cold, with chopped pistache nuts on the top. 
Or let the souffle stand a minute, turn it out care- 
fully, and serve with Chocolate Sauce. To prepare 
a souffle dish, or tin; grease well with butter, and 
tie round a strip of greased writing paper, rising 
two or three inches above the dish to hold up the 
souffle as it rises. 



135 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

VANILLA SOUFFLE 

Make a souffle mixture as in the preceding recipe, 
flavour with vanilla, and bake in a hot oven. Serve 
as soon as it is ready, removing the paper at the 
dining room door. 

BEIGNETS SOUFFLES 

Butter, I oz. Fine Flour, 2 oz. 

White Sugar, i oz. Egg, i 

Water, i gill Flavouring 

Sift the flour into a small basin. Boil the water, 
butter and sugar together, pour slowly over the 
flour, and beat well. Return to the pan, and cook 
for about six minutes, stirring and keeping smooth. 
Lift off the fire, add the flavouring and beat the 
egg in vigorously. This should be made some time 
before it is wanted, and must be cold before frying. 
To fry, the fat must be deep enough to cover the 
Beignets, and smoking hot. Beat the batter up 
well again, take neat pieces out with a teaspoon, 
put in the fat, 6 or 8 at a time. Fry a golden 
brown, do not let the fritters burst. Drain on 
paper. The fat must smoke again before putting 
in more fritters. Pile the Beignets up on a dish 
paper, sprinkle with icing sugar, and serve very 
hot. 

OMELETTE SOUFFLE 

Eggs, 3 White Sugar, 2 oz. 

Butter, ^ oz. Vanilla Essence 

Divide the eggs ; beat the yolks and sugar 
together until thick and creamy, add the vanilla. 

136 



SWEET DISHES 

Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, fold them care- 
fully in with the yolks. Pour into a greased fire- 
proof dish, and put in a very hot oven for a few 
minutes till set. Serve the omelette at once in the 
same dish. 

The table must wait for an Omelette Souffle. 

SWEET OMELETTE 

Eggs, 3 Butter, % oz 

White Sugar, 3 tea- Milk, 3 teaspoons 
spoons 

Divide the eggs ; beat the yolks with the milk and 
sugar. Add the flavouring. Whip the whites to a 
stiff froth, with a pinch of salt, fold them lightly 
into the yolks. Heat the butter, or lard, in a fry 
pan. When it smokes, lift the pan; pour in the 
eggs, cook a minute or two, till the bottom is set 
and lightly browned. Hold the omelette under the 
grill or before the fire to lightly set the top. Slip 
on a hot dish, folding the omelette over; sprinkle 
with icing sugar, and serve at once. A large 
spoonful of any jam warmed, may be put in the 
omelette when folding. An omelette can be made 
with one or any number of eggs. 

Victoria Sandwich. Castle Puddings. (See 
Cakes.) 

Swiss Roll. Jam Sandwich. (See Cakes.) 



137 



CREAMS 

CREAM must be kept in a cool place. 
Creams made without gelatine are very- 
simple, and excellent eating. Fruit Creams 
and Fools are much the same thing. Where 
the greater quantity is cream, it is so called. 
Where the fruit predominates, it is a Fool. Any 
quantity, however small, of cream and fruit can 
be made into a Cream or Fool. Sugar, flavouring 
and colouring, are added to taste. 

Decorations of Creams. The following are used. 
Glace cherries, Angelica, violets, rose leaves, lilac, 
pistache nuts, grated lemon and orange rind, pink 
sugar, &c. 

Cream to Whip. The object of whipping is to 
make cream light by dividing it, patting in air, 
greatly increasing its bulk. If overwhipped, cream 
becomes thick and granulated, approaching butter. 
The folding in of fruit, &c., must be done carefully 
and lightly with a wide sweep of the spoon to avoid 
flattening the whipped cream. 

RASPBERRY CREAM 

Raspberries, i lb. Cream, ^ pint 

Red Currants, 2 oz. Sugar, 2 oz. 

Rub the fruit and the sugar through a hair sieve, 
Qdd a teaspoon of brandy if liked. Whip the 

13S 



SWEET DISHES 

cream, fold in the fruit pulp very lightly and grad- 
ually, add a few drops of carmine if the colour 
requires it. Serve in glass cups, or fruit salad 
plates. 

Strawberries, Bi^ackberries, Loganberries, 
and other soft fruits are made into creams in the 
same way. 

Apricots (tinned) require a squeeze of lemon 
juice, a teaspoon of brandy, and a few drops of 
Carmine to colour. 

Jam, melted, rubbed through a sieve, a squeeze 
of lemon juice added, can be used in creams, instead 
of fruit. 

SPONGE CREAMS 

Crumble some stale sponge cakes and soak in 
Cherry Liqueur ; fold these into whipped cream ; 
sweeten, add a few divided glace cherries. Put the 
cream in small glass cups, decorate with cherries 
and small pieces of Angelica. 

BROWN BREAD CREAMS 

Rub stale bread through a sieve, soak the crumbs 
in Maraschino or a little brandy and flavouring 
essence. Add sugar, fold the crumbs into some 
whipped cream. Put into glass cups and decorate 
with crystallized violets. 

RICE CREAMS 

Take some cold rice, or rice pudding, divide it, 
flavour and lightly fold in whipped cream. Decor- 
ate to taste. 

139 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

CHOCOLATE CREAMS 

Rich Cocoa, i oz. Cream, 5^ pint (or less) 

Sugar, I oz. Vanilla or Cinnamon 

Mix the cocoa and sugar with a little milk, put 
in a pan and let it just boil. Leave it to get quite 
cold. Whip the cream, fold in the strong cocoa and 
flavouring and serve in small glasses. 

COFFEE CREAMS 

Use strong black coffee, or Coffee Extract, flavour 
with Vanilla, and sweeten well. Fold in whipped 
cream, serve in glasses and decorate with violets. 

Savoy biscuits or sponge fingers should be served 
with most small creams. 

VELVET CREAM 

Cream, ^^ pint Sherry, a wine-glass 

Gelatine, % oz. Lemon Rind 

White Sugar, 2 oz. Water, i gill 

Melt the leaf gelatine slowly over the fire in the 
water. Pour it in a basin, add the sugar, sherry, 
and grated rind of a lemon and let it cool, but not 
set. Whip the cream, fold in the melted gelatine, 
and pour at once into a wet mould. Turn out when 
set. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE 

Savoy Biscuits, 12 White Sugar, i oz. 

Cream, J^ pint Gelatine, 5^ oz. 

Milk, I gill Flavouring 

Take a pint souffle tin, or dish. Line the bottom 
with the split biscuits, trimming and fitting them, 
and brushing the edges with white of ^^g to make 

140 



SWEET DISHES 

them stick together. Line the sides with the bis- 
cuits, letting the tops stand just above the tin. 
Put this in the oven for a couple of minutes to dry 
the white of tgg, and see that the case when dry- 
slips easily out of the tin. Melt the gelatine slowly 
in the milk, and let it cool. Whip the cream, add 
the sugar and flavouring ; fold in the gelatine lightly 
and pour into the mould. Lift the Charlotte Russe 
out of the tin when set and decorate with glace 
fruits. 

RHUBARB FOOL 

Stewed Rhubarb and Cream 
Oranges 

Take some stewed rhubarb (see Stewed Fruit) ^ 
and rub through a sieve. Whip some cream till it 
nearly stands, and fold in the fruit lightly. Serve 
in glass cups, small saucers or plates, and hand 
sponge fingers. Stewed gooseberries, blackberries, 
or other stewed, or tinned fruits are made into fools 
in the same way. Flavouring, sugar and colour are 
added to taste. 

LEMON JELLY 

Lemons, 2 Gelatine, i oz. 

Loaf Sugar, 2 oz. White and shell of i 

Sherry, a tablespoon Egg 

Water, % pint 

Whisk the white of egg slightly and crush the 
shell. Take the rind of the lemons and squeeze 
the juice. Put all the ingredients, except the 
sherry, in a stewpan, and whisk over the fire till it 
bubbles. Remove the whisk and boil up. Lift the 

141 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

pan for a minute, replace, and let it boil up again. 
Stand for ten minutes at the back of the stove. 
Strain the jelly gently through a hot cloth into a 
basin, and add the wine. Pour into glasses or 
moulds to set. 

CLARET JELLY 

Cla.et, i< pint Loaf Sugar, 3 oz (or 

Water, li pint more) 

Lemon, i Leaf Gelatine, ^ oz. 

2 Cloves Red Currant Jelly, i 

I WTiite of Egg and tablespoon 

Shell I inch Cinnamon 

Whisk the white of tgg slighth' and crush the 
shell. Put all the ingredients in a pan, and proceed 
as with lemon jelly. A few drops of Carmine 
improves the colour. Pour the jelly in glass or china 
moulds, or small glasses. Turn out, and serve with 
whipped cream. 

LEMON SPONGE 

An}' lemon, or other jelly left over will make a 
Sponge. Put it in a basin and stand over warm 
water till dissolved. Whisk the whites of one or 
two eggs, add the liquid jelly carefully; flavour, 
sweeten, and colour to taste, and continue whisk- 
ing. When the sponge starts setting pour at once 
into small moulds. A small quantity of whipped 
cream may be folded in with the white of ^gg and 
jelly. 

FRUIT STEWTED 

All fruit that is ripe and sound is best eaten raw. 

142 



SWEET DISHES 

Fruit to be stewed should be cooked in a syrup; 
keeping it whole when possible, preserving the 
flavour and colour, and avoiding over cooking. In 
winter stewed fruits may be served warm. 

A S\-rup. Put li lb. of loaf sugar, and % pint 
water in a stewpan and bofl f or a few minutes, 
taking o5 any scum. This is the quantity required 
for stewing about 2 lbs. of frmt. 

STEWED APPLES 

Make a syrup (see above) flavoured with thin 
lemon rind. Peel the apples, if smaU core and cook 
them whole; if large cut into quarters and take out 
the core. Put the apples in the hot syrup, keeping 
them whole, and simmer very gently till a skewer 
will just go through. lift out the apples with a 
wire spoon and arrange neatly on a glass dish. Boil 

up and reduce the syrup, colour rather deeply with 
Carmine; let it cool, and pour over the apples. 

STEWED PEARS 
Are flavoured with cloves, stick cinnamon, or 
lemon rind, and cooked as Stewed Apples. 

STEWED RHUBARB 
Rhnbaib Oranges 

A Synrp 

The sticks of rhubarb should be all of the same 
thickness. Wipe with a doth, take the skin og 
only if the rhubarb is coarse. Cut into pieces two 
inches long. Make a syrup, flavoured with orange 
rind (see Syrup). Simmer the rhubarb slowly in 

143 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

the syrup, keeping it whole. Take it off the fire. 
Peel two oranges, scrape off all the white skin 
carefully; cut in slices, avoiding the pips, and 
stir into the hot rhubarb, but do not cook. Serve 
cold. 

STEWED BLACK CURRANTS 

Make a Syrup (see Syrup). String the currants 
with a silver fork, put them in the syrup, and 
simmer gently for a short time according to ripe- 
ness. Put in a glass dish and serve with plenty of 
cream. 

COLD FRUIT PUDDING 

Line a pudding basin with slices of bread without 
crust. Fill up with the hot Stewed Currants, 
putting in the fruit with a spoon and adding as 
much syrup as the basin will hold. Cover with 
bread, stand a saucer and weights on the top, and 
leave the pudding till next day. Turn it out and 
serve with cream. Ripe Blackberries or Rasp- 
berries and Currants may be warmed in a little 
syrup till the juice begins to run, and made into a 
pudding as above. 

FRUIT SALADS 

Fruit Salads are arranged according to the fruits 
available. When fruits are juicy they will make a 
syrup with added sugar, when allowed to stand for 
some time. Otherwise a syrup must be made, and 
allowed to boil for some minutes (see Stewed Fruit). 
Half the quantity (a gill of water and 4 oz. of 
sugar) will probably be enough for a salad. A 

144 



SWEET DISHES 

small tin of any fruit makes a good foundation for 
a salad. The syrup is improved by boiling up with 
more sugar and reducing. It may be flavoured 
with any liqueur, and coloured with Carmine if 
liked. 

RASPBERRY SALAD 

Raspberries, i lb. White Sugar 

Red Currants, % lb. 

Raspberries should not be picked till ripe, and 
are best uncooked. Pick the raspberries, string 
the currants with a silver fork. Put the fruit in a 
bowl, shaking white sugar between each layer. 
Cover and stand in a cool place for several hours. 
Stir when serving. Hand sponge fingers. 

BLACKBERRY SALAD 

Blackberries should not be picked till ripe and 
juicy, and are best uncooked. Pick ripe black- 
berries into a bowl, looking them over very care- 
fully. Shake in white sugar generously between 
each layer of fruit. Add a teaspoon of brandy if 
liked. Cover and stand in a cool place for several 
hours. 

ANGELS FOOD 

Oranges Coconut 

Bananas Sugar 

Peel the oranges, and scrape off all the white 
skin. Cut into rough pieces with a sharp knife, 
avoiding core and pips. Peel the bananas and cut 
up. Mix the fruit in a glass dish with white 
sugar. Sprinkle liberally with grated coconut. 

145 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

A teaspcx)n of Maraschino or brandy may be added 
if liked. Cover and stand in a cool place for several 
hours. 

A FRUIT SALAD 

Pine Apple Chunks (a Cherries 
small tin) Walnuts 

Oranges Sugar, Brandy 

Bananas 

Strain the pineapple juice into a small pan, and 
boil up with some lumps of sugar for about five 
minutes. Skim, lift off the fire, cut the chunks in 
halves and put in the syrup, adding a little brandy 
or liqueur if liked. Cover, and put aside to get 
cold. Peel the oranges, scrape off the white skin, 
and cut up roughly, avoiding the core and pips. 
Peel and cut up the bananas; stone a few ripe 
cherries. Put all the fruit in a bowl, adding the 
pineapple and syrup, and dried walnuts. Stand the 
salad in a cool place for some hours. 

Tomatoes are excellent in a fruit salad, they 
should be small red and ripe. Remove the skin, 
cut in halves or quarters, and run off the seeds and 
water 



146 



PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS 

ONLY light hands can make good pastry. 
It is not a necessary article of food, and 
unless time and care can be given it, is 
best left alone. In towns it is readily bought 
made by expert pastry makers. Vol-au- vents, 
and Patty Cases ready to be filled are made to 
order. 

Flour. Fine white flour makes the lightest 
pastry, but household flour can be used, except for 
pufF pastry. A self-raising flour is one that has 
the raising, or baking powder already mixed in it. 
Paisley flour is excellent for raising pastry; it is 
used in the proportion of one ounce to eight ounces 
of flour. With most baking powders one teaspoon 
is required to each half pound of flour. With light 
hands this quantity can be lessened. All flours 
with their raising should be carefully sifted and 
aerated. 

Butter used for pastry must be fresh, not what is 
known as cooking butter, which contains much salt 
and water, and is often strong in taste. Butter and 
lard may be used in equal proportions. Dripping 
makes good rough pastry, but should be creamed 
with a knife on a plate, making it lighter in texture 
and colour, and removing any strong flavour. Vege- 

147 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

table butters or fats are excellent for pastry, pro- 
vided they are not too hard. All fats used for 
pastry making should be of the same consistency as 
the pastry v/hen mixed. Fat is rubbed into the 
flour with the tips of the fingers. By first beating 
it to a cream (if at all hard), a great deal of the 
rubbing is saved. 

All pastry is mixed with water as cold as pos- 
sible. The quantity of water required for mixing 
cannot be given, depending on the quality of the 
flour. The finer flours take up more moisture than 
the coarser ones. Short crust is mixed as dry as 
possible, or it will not eat short. Other pastries 
should be mixed to an elastic dough. 

Pastry, to Roll. Flour the board and pin lightly. 
Make short sharp rolls, lifting the pin constantly, 
and never going over the edges of the pastry. Keep 
it tidy and of even thickness. Pastry should be 
handled as little as possible. The first rolled pastry 
is always the best. Pastry may be kept (uncooked) 
in a cool place for several days. 

Pastry, to Bake, It should be put into a hot oven, 
so that it may rise quickly. The oven door to be 
opened only when necessary, and must not be 
banged. If the pastry is browning too much, the 
top iron sheet should be removed. When the 
pastry of a pie is done and the meat or fruit not 
ready, cooking may be continued on the top of the 
stove, standing the dish (on an asbestos mat), over 
gentle heat. 

PufF Pastry should only be attempted by hands 
that turn out good Short and Flaky Pastry. 

148 



PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS 

SHORT PAvSTRY (i) 

Flour, Yi lb. Baking Powder, i tea- 

Butter and Lard mixed, spoon 

4 oz. Salt, a pinch 

Mix the butter and lard together with a knife. 
Sift the flour and baking powder into a basin. Rub 
the fat into the flour with the tips of the fingers. 
When this is fine, with no lumps, add salt, stir with 
a knife, working always from the centre. Pour 
in a little water, and mix as dry as possible. Tidy 
the dough, leaving the basin clean, place on a 
floured board; beat the pastry out with the rolling 
pin, and roll to the required thickness. Short 
pastry is used for meat pies, tarts, tartlets, &c. If 
required richer the proportion of butter is in- 
creased. Short pastry should eat short and 
crumbly. 

SHORT PASTRY (2) 

Flour, Yz lb. Baking Powder, i tea- 

Butter, 4 oz. spoon 

White Sugar, a teaspoon Bgg, i yolk 

Water 

Make as Short Pastry i, adding the sugar and 
mixing with the yolk of ^%g beaten with a little 
water. This Short Pastry is used for tarts, and 
other sweet dishes. 



FLAKY PASTRY 

Flour, i.< lb. Paisley Flour, i oz. or 

Butter, or other fats, Baking Powder, i tea- 

4 oz. spoon 

149 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Sift the flour and Paisley flour into a basin, add 
the salt. Cream the butter on a plate, and divide 
it in four portions. Rub one quarter lightly into 
the flour with the tips of the fingers. When fine 
pour a little water in the centre, use a knife for 
mixing, and make a neat elastic dough, leaving 
the basin clean. Flour the board and pin and roll 
the paste in a long strip. Put on another portion of 
the fat in little dabs, keeping well inside the edges ; 
sprinkle with flour, fold in three, press the edges of 
the pastry together to keep in the fat, turn over and 
round. Roll the pastry out again in a long strip. 
Put in another quarter of fat, sprinkle with flour, 
fold, and turn round and over. Roll out again^ 
and put in the last fat; sprinkle with flour, fold in 
three, turn the pastry round and over, and it is 
ready for use. In rolling pastry the neat side is 
always kept towards one, the edges top and bottom. 
An even thickness should be kept. A larger 
quantity of butter can be used if a richer pastry is 
required. Flaky pastry rises in flakes, or layers, 
air being folded in at each turn. The air, as it gets 
heated, raises the pastry. 

PUFF PASTRY 

Fine Flour, ^ lb. Egg, i yolk 

Fresh Butter, 6 oz. Lemon Juice 

Sift the flour into a basin, make a well, drop in 
the yolk, a little water, a squeeze of lemon juice, 
and mix to a firm elastic paste. Work the paste 
till smooth, leaving the basin quite clean. Lightly 
flour the board and roll the pastry out ip a long 

150 



PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS 

strip. Soften the butter with a knife, till of the 
same consistency as the pastry, and make it into a 
square, an inch narrower than the strip. Place the 
butter in the centre of the pastry, cover it evenly 
with both ends of the strip ; press the edges with the 
rolling pin to keep in the butter, turn the pastry 
over and round. Give it three or four sharp beats 
with the rolling pin ; sprinkle with flour, and set it 
in a cool place for 15 minutes. Again roll the 
pastry in a long strip, using a little flour as re- 
quired ; fold it in three, turn over and round, and 
roll it again, making two rolls. Set aside for 15 
minutes and again roll twice, making four rolls. 
Set aside for 15 minutes and again roll twice, mak- 
ing six rolls. Set aside for 15 minutes and roll 
again. This, the seventh roll, is the last, and the 
pastry is ready for pies, vol-au- vents, patties, &c. 
More butter can be used if a richer pastry is re- 
quired, but it is then more difficult to handle. It is 
a good plan to make Puff Pastry the day before it is 
required. Puff Pastry rises or puffs considerably, 
air being put in with each fold. The air rises when 
heated, and puffs the pastry. 

STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE 

Steak, I lb. Flaky Pastry (see re- 

Sheeps Kidneys, 4 cipe) 

Seasoned Flour 

Make seasoned flour by mixing i tablespoon 
flour, I teaspoon salt, 5^ teaspoon pepper. Scald 
the kidneys, and cut each into four. Cut the steak 
in thin slices, put a piece of fat in each, make into 

151 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

small rolls, rub in seasoned flour, and put in a pie 
dish. Flour the kidneys and put in with the meat. 
Pour in water to three parts fill the dish, and wet 
the edges. Make Flaky Pastry. Roll out about 
half an inch thick, cut strips, and lay them on 
the edges of the dish. Brush over with egg, lay on 
the pastry cover without stretching, pulling it in a 
little just inside the rim of the dish. Cut off the 
rough edges with a sharp knife, and make a stand 
up frill with the back of the knife. Make a large 
hole in the centre of the pastry, brush it over with 
eggy and decorate with a rose, leaves, &c. Brush 
these over with egg, put the pie in the oven, stand- 
ing it in a tin for easy handling. Bake for about 
an hour. Hard boiled tggs, mushrooms (peeled), 
oysters, pigeons (quartered), or smaller birds, may 
be put in this pie; or balls of sausage meat or 
forcemeat. 

VEAL AND HAM PIE 

Veal Cutlet, i lb. Seasoned Flour 
Bacon or Ham, 4 oz. Flaky Pastry (see re- 
Hard Boiled Eggs, 3 cipe) 
Mushrooms 

Make seasoned flour, as iti the preceding recipe, 
adding grated lemon rind, chopped parsley, a pinch 
of cayenne. Cut the meat in medium sized pieces. 
Slice the bacon very thin, and make in small rolls. 
Peel the mushrooms, and cut them up if large. 
Make as Steak and Kidney Pie. Balls of sausage or 
forcemeat may be used instead of the bacon. 

152 



PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS 

RABBIT PIE 

A Tame Rabbit Mushrooms 

4 Kidneys or half a Seasoned Flour 
pound of Ox Kidney vSausages 

Cut the rabbit in ten or more pieces (see Rabbit 
Ragout). Scald, skin, and cut up the kidneys. 
Peel the mushrooms ; make balls of the sausages, or 
of forcemeat. Make the Pie as Steak and Kidney 
Pie. Be careful that the hole in the top is kept 
open to let the steam escape. Extra gravy can be 
added if required, using a funnel for pouring it in. 
If the rabbit is a wild one, it must be carefully 
cleansed, cut up, put in the pie dish, covered, and 
gently stewed in the oven for quite an hour on the 
orevious day. 

MEAT PATTIES 

Raw Meat Flaky Pastry (as re- 

cipe) 

Cut Up small any scraps of raw meat; season, and 
moisten with a little stock or water. Roll out the 
pastry, cut two rounds for each Patty and line the 
Patty tins. Brush round the pastry with egg, fill 
the tins with meat, put on the covers lightly ; make 
a hole in the centre of each with a sharp pointed 
knife, and frill the edges. Brush over with egg 
and bake in a hot oven. Steak and kidney, veal 
and ham, mutton, chicken, game, may be used for 
patties. If the meat is already cooked it must be 
mixed with good gravy. Flaky Pastry (as recipe) 
makes about eight meat patties. Rub out the Patty 
tins while hot with soft paper. 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

SAUSAGE ROLLS 

Sausages, Yz lb. (4) Flaky or Puff Pastiy 

(see recipe) 

Skin the sausages, cut in halves, and roll each 
piece lightly in flour to the length required, an inch 
shorter than the square of pastry. Roll out the 
pastry, cut in strips about 4 inches wide with a 
sharp knife, and cut each strip into squares. Brush 
round with ^%%y lay on a piece of sausage, fold over 
the pastry, and press the edges lightly together 
with the back of the knife. Put the rolls on a flat 
tin, glaze with ^z%i bake in a hot oven for about 
twenty minutes. Flaky pastry (as recipe) will 
make eight sausage rolls. 

MEAT PASTY 

Meat, raw or cooked Pastry, short or flaky, 

Water or Gravy i^ lb. 

Seasoning 

Take a wire, or other plate, or round tin. Roll 
out the pastry thin, line the plate, and wet the 
edges. Cut the meat up small, and put it on the 
pastry; season well, and moisten with water or 
gravy. Brush round the edges with ^%%. Roll out 
the rest of the pastry in a round, and cover the 
Pasty. Trim the edges, make a hole in the centre, 
decorate with a rose, leaves, &c. ; brush over with 
cgg> and bake in a hot oven. 

FRENCH PIE 

This is made in a French Pie dish of glazed 
earthenware, the cover taking the place of pastry. 

154 



PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS 

The dish is packed tight with meat, rabbit, chicken. 
&c., cut up, and rubbed in seasoned flour, as other 
pies. Add bacon, sausage balls, kidneys, mush- 
rooms, oysters, and water or stock to three parts 
fill. The cover is put on, and the pie is cooked 
slowly in the oven for one or two hours, according to 
size. To be eaten hot or cold. 

VOL-AU-VENT 

Puff Pastry (see recipe) Cold Chicken 

Mushrooms White Sauce 

Make Puff Pastry, roll out the seventh time 
about an inch thick. Dip a round, or oval, cutter 
in boiling water, wipe dry, and cut the pastry for 
the Vol-au-Vent. With a small cutter mark a 
round in the centre of the pastry. Put it on a flat 
tin, brush over with egg, and bake in a good brisk 
oven ; open the door as little as possible, and avoid 
banging. When the pastry is cooked remove the 
marked centre (which makes the cover), with a 
sharp-pointed knife, and take out the soft inside 
paste. Fill the Vol-au-Vent, stand it in the oven 
for a few minutes, and serve quickly. For the 
filling, make a good White Sauce with half chicken 
stock. Cut the chicken small, stir into the sauce, 
season well, and let it all warm through. Veal and 
oysters, game, lobster, all make good Vol-au-Vent 
fillings. 

OYSTER PATTIES 

Roll Puff Pastry out about ^ an inch thick ; cut 
rounds with a small cutter for the Patties, and mark 

^55 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

a smaller round in the centre of each. Put the 
pastry on a flat tin, glaze with egg, and bake in a 
hot even oven. Remove the centre piece (making 
the cover), with a sharp-pointed knife, take out the 
soft inside paste, and fill with shrimps in sauce, or 
any of the Vol-au-Vent fillings. Serve hot on a 
dish paper; garnish with parsley. 

SUET PASTRY 

Suet pastry is used for meat, fruit, plain and 
other puddings, and dumplings. It is steamed or 
boiled, care being taken that water never touches 
the pastry during the process of cooking. For 
raising. Paisley flour (i oz. to 8 oz. flour) or baking 
powder (i teaspoon to 8 oz. flour), can be used. 
The flour and raising must always be sifted to- 
gether. The fat may be beef suet, nut suet, or 
dripping. Suets are rubbed on a grater, then 
finely chopped (using flour to clean the knife and 
prevent sticking), and rubbed into the flour with 
the tips of the fingers, to insure that there are no 
pieces of fat large enough to be seen left in a 
pudding. Dripping is beaten to a cream (on a 
plate with a knife), and rubbed lightly into the 
flour with the fingers. Cold water is used for 
mixing to a firm paste. Suet puddings should be 
cooked in greased cake tins, or enamel or china 
basins, and covered with greased paper. Pudding 
cloths are neither desirable nor necessary. Suet 
puddings are best cooked in a steamer over fast 
boiling water. 

156 



PASTRY, PIES, A.ND PUDDINGS 

STEAK PUDDING 

Flour, y. lb. Steak, i lb. 

Paisley Flour, i oz. Kidney, 4 oz. 

Suet, 4 oz. Seasoned Flour 

Sift the flour and Paisley flour (or teaspoon 
baking powder). Grate and chop the suet finely. 
Rub it into the flour, leaving no lumps. Add salt, 
and mix with water to a stiff paste. Grease a pint 
pudding basin (enamel cooks quicker than china). 
Roll out half the pastry thin, and line the basin, 
fitting it well at the bottom. Trim and wet the 
edges. Scald the kidney and cut it up ; cut up the 
meat, rub both in seasoned flour and put in the 
basin. Add water to three parts fill. Roll out the 
remaining pastry in a round. Cover the basin, 
gathering up the edges of the pastry, the cover and 
the lining together. Cover the basin loosely with 
a greased paper, curling in the edges without tying. 
Steam the pudding for not less than three hours. 
Remove the paper and serve in the basin, with a 
small tureen of gravy. Small birds, mushrooms, 
oysters, boned anchovies may be added to this 
pudding. 

RABBIT PUDDING 

vSuet Pastry Kidneys, or good stock 

Rabbit Seasoned Flour 

Bacon or Pickled Pork 

The rabbit must be well cleaned and cut up 
(see Rabbit Ragout), the bacon or pork cut up; the 
kidneys scalded. Make as steak pudding. If a 

157 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

wild rabbit the pudding will require four hours 
steaming. 

SUET PUDDING 

Flour, Yi lb. Beef Suet, 4 oz. 

Paisley Flour, i oz. vSalt, ^ teaspoon 

Sift the flour and Paisley flour (or a teaspoon 
baking powder), rub the suet on a grater, and chop 
it very fine, using some of the flour to prevent the 
knife sticking. Rub the suet lightly in the flour 
with the tips of the fingers, leaving no lumps; add 
salt and mix with water to a stiff paste. Gather 
up and tidy the pastry, leaving the basin clean. 
Place in a well greased tin or enamel basin; cover 
with greased paper, curl in the edges without 
tying. Steam over boiling water for two hours. 
Remove the paper and stand a minute before 
turning out. Serve with golden syrup. This 
may be called a standard mixture. It may be 
made with nut suet, or creamed dripping, instead 
of beef suet. The following fruits, &c., added to 
the dry ingredients, before wetting, make as many 
different puddings. Treacle, Currants, Sultanas, 
Raisins, Figs, Dates, Marmalade, Ginger, and 
other Spices, Brown Sugar. 

ROLY POLY 

Make paste as for Suet Pudding. Roll it out in 
an even strip on a well floured board. Spread 
liberally with jam. Wet the edges, roll up, and 
press the ends together. The pudding may be 
cooked in a greased roll bread tin; or in a strong 

158 , 



% 



PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS 

greased paper or bag. Steam for two hours^ or 
bake in the oven. 

FRUIT PUDDING 

vSuet Paste Fruit, Sugar 

Make Suet Paste (as Suet Pudding), line a 
greased basin (as with Meat Pudding). Peel the 
apples, cut in quarters, taking out the core, and 
fill the basin; add brown sugar, cloves, and thin 
lemon rind. Add as much water as required. Put 
on the pastry cover, place a greased paper on the 
top, and steam for about two hours. 

APPLE DUMPLINGS 
Suet or Short Paste ' Apples, Sugar 

Roll out the pastry, cut rounds or squares, and 
wet the edges. Peel and core medium sized apples ; 
put one on each piece of pastry. Fill the holes 
with brown sugar and a clove. Fold over the 
pastry, turn the dumplings over, put on a tin and 
bake in a hot oven. 

APPLE PIE 

Short Pastry Brown Sugar 

Apples, 2 lbs. Lemon 

Peel and core the apples, and cut into quarters. 
Fill the pie dish, piling the fruit up in the centre. 
Add brown sugar as required, the grated rind and 
juice of a lemon, a few cloves or stick cinnamon. 
Add water, according to the ripeness of the fruit, 
and wet the rim of the dish. Roll out the pastry, 

159 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

cut strips, and lay round the rim of the dish ; 
brush over the edges with water or egg. Lay on 
the pastry cover lightly and without stretching; 
press it down a little, just inside the rim of the 
dish. Trim round with a sharp knife, and frill the 
edges. Make a hole in the centre, brush over with M 
white of &gg and sift sugar over. Put the pie in a ^ 
hot oven ; the heat may be reduced when the pastry 
is set and lightly brown and the top iron baking 
sheet may be removed. The pie should take about 
half an hour to bake; the fruit can be tried with a 
skewer. Serve the pie on a dish paper, and sift 
over icing sugar. 

All fruit pies are made in the same way. Sugar 
and water added according to the ripeness and char- 
acter of the fruit. The dish should always be very 
full, as fruit reduces in cooking. 

TREACLE TART 

Short Pastry Breadcrumbs 

Golden Syrup or Treacle Powdered Ginger 

■ Make Short Pastry (with dripping). Take half 
the pastry and roll it out thin, keeping it in a 
round. Fit it on a wire, tin, or other plate. Trim 
the edges and brush over with water. Pour in 
golden syrup, sprinkle thickly with white bread 
crumbs, and add a little ground ginger. Make up 
the remaining pastry in a round, roll it out, and 
cover the plate, pressing it lightly just inside the 
rim. Trim off any rough pieces, and cut across 
the middle of the pastry three or four times, using 
a sharp knife. Bake carefully, treacle easily 
burns. 

i6o 



PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS 

JAM TARTS 

Take Short, Flaky, or Puff Pastry. Roll it out 
and line a deep sandwich tin, fitting it in well at 
the bottom. Trim the edges. Small stars of 
pastry (cut with a fluted cutter) may be put close 
together along the edge of the tart; or twists, 
diamonds, or leaves, may be baked separately and 
used for decoration. Prick the lining pastry with 
a fork to prevent it rising, and bake in a quick 
oven. Fill the tart with jam or lemon curd. The 
tart may be covered with meringue. 

Beat a white of tgg till it stands ; fold in lightly 
an ounce of white sugar, pile it on the jam, shake 
over a little more sugar, and stand in the oven for 
a few minutes to set. 

COCONUT MERINGUE 

Take an ounce of grated coconut, fold it care- 
fully to the white of egg and sugar, and pile on the 
top of the jam. Shake over a little sugar, and put 
in the oven for a few minutes to set. Eat hot or 

cold. 

FRUIT TART (OPEN) 

Line a deep saucer tin with pastry, and bake as 
for Jam Tart. Fill neatly with stewed (or tinned) 
apricots, peaches, apples, cherries, or other fruit. 
Reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly without a 
lid, adding a little more sugar. Cool the syrup, 
add a few drops of flavouring if necessary, and a 
little Carmine. Pour the syrup over the fruit when 
cold, but not set. Lightly whipped cream may 
be piled on the fruit. 

F i6i 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

TARTLETS 

Roll out any pastry. With a fluted cutter, cut 
rounds rather larger than the patty tins. These 
should be of a small size. Fit the pastry in the 
tins, pressing round the bottom. Prick with a 
fork, or press in a piece of crust to prevent rising. 
Bake quickly. Pill the tartlets with jam, lemon 
curd, a half apricot with a blanched almond in it, or 
stewed cherries, as in fruit tart. The tartlets may 
be covered with meringue, coconut meringue^ or 
whipped cream. 

CREAM HORNS 

Roll out pufF or flaky pastry. Cut strips about 
an inch wide; start at the point of the cornet tin, 
and wind the pastry round, each piece overlapping 
the preceding one. Be careful not to stretch the 
pastry. Lay on a tin, glaze and sprinkle with 
white sugar. Bake quickly; slip out the tins, and 
cool on a wire tray. Fill with jam and whipped 
cream. Sprinkle with chopped pistache nuts. Rub 
the tins with paper while hot, they are never 
washed. 

TURNOVERS 

Any pieces of pastry can be used for Turnovers. 
Roll out, cut squares, wet the edges, and put a 
spoonful of thick jam in the centre. Fold the 
pastry over, corner to cross corner, and mark the 
edges with the back of a knife. Or cut the pastry 
in rounds, wet the edges, put in the jam, fold over, 
and frill the edges. Put the Turnover on a flat tin, 

162 



PASTRY, PIES, AND PUDDINGS 

brush over with egg, sprinkle with white sugar and 
bake in a hot oven. 

PASTRY FINGERS 

Roll out any pieces of pastry, cut into fingers of 
equal size, glaze and bake. Spread half the fingers 
with jam, and press two together. 

All pastry should cool on a wire tray or sieve. 

PI.UM PUDDING 

Flour, 4 oz. Raisins, i lb. 

Breadcrumbs, ^^ lb. Currants, i lb. 

Beef Suet, i lb. Mixed Peel, 4 oz. 

White Sugar, i lb. Sweet Almonds, 2 oz. 

Lemon Brandy 

vSpices Eggs, 6. 

Stone the raisins, clean the currants with flour 
and pick them, cut up the peel, blanch and cut up 
the almonds. Chop the suet very finely, rub it 
into the flour; add the bread-crumbs, sugar, pre- 
pared fruit, salt and spices, the juice and rind of 
half a lemon, and mix all thoroughly. Make a 
hole in the centre, pour in the beaten eggs, and 
the brandy, and stir till all the ingredients are 
well moistened and mixed. More eggs or a little 
milk may be added if required. Grease the pud- 
ding basins, cover with thick greased paper (as 
suet pudding) and steam for about 10 hours. The 
water should never stop boiling, and will require 
adding to as it is reduced. 



163 



BREAD 

N^ EW bread is liked by most people and 
should certainly be served whenever poss- 
. ible. If well made, well baked, and well 

masticated, it is easily digested. In small house- 
holds, small loaves make least waste. Standard, 
wholemeal, and household flours are the most 
nutritious. Bread is raised with German or 
brewer's yeast. Baking powder is a substitute 
for yeast. Paisley flour is excellent for raising. 
Self-raising flours have the raising already mixed 
in, and require no other. 

Yeast. German yeast when fresh is soft and 
moist. The amount required is less in proportion 
for a large than for a small quantity of flour. 
7 lbs. flour require ij^ oz. yeast. 
2,% lbs. flour require i oz. yeast. 
I lb. flour requires j4 oz. yeast. 
Wholemeal and brown flours require rather more 
yeast, and take longer to rise than white flours. 

In making bread, the basin, flour, water and 
cloth must all be warm, and kept warm, not hot. If 
the dough is allowed to get cold, or is overheated, 
the bread will be unsatisfactory. 

The amount of water or milk required for mixing 
cannot be accurately given, as flours vary. The 
dough when mixed should be elastic; not too dry, 

164 



t 



BREAD 

nor too slack. The water or milk should be warmed 
to blood heat. 

Light and springy hands are necessary for 
kneading. 

A time for raising cannot be given, as it depends 
on the temperature. The dough should double in 
size in a gentle heat, and is then ready to make up. 

Times for baking depend on the size of the loaves 
or rolls, and the heat of the oven. 'To test, run a 
fine skewer in the thickest part of the loaf; it will 
come out clean and the crust when tapped will 
sound hollow when the bread is ready. All bread 
and rolls should cool on a wire tray or sieve, in 
order to let the steam escape. 

BREAD 

Flour, 35^ lbs. Salt, 2 teaspoons 

Yeast, I oz. ' Warm Water, about 15^ 

Sugar, I teaspoon pints 

Warm the flour, and sift it into a warm basin. 
Work the German yeast to a cream with a teaspoon 
of sugar; add a little warm water, and stir smooth. 
Make a hole in the centre of the flour ; pour in the 
yeast, cover it lightly w^ith flour, and put the salt 
round the edges. Cover the basin with a cloth and 
stand it in a warm place till the yeast begins to 
work. When the flour cracks, pour in the warm 
water, and mix from the centre with a wooden 
spoon; adding a little more water as required. 
When the flour is all mixed, and the basin clean, 
knead the dough, well, raising it from the sides with 
the fists and pressing it into the centre. Use flour 

165 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

only to prevent sticking. When the dough is light", 
smooth and elastic, flour it lightly; turn it over, 
cover with a clotli and put it in a warm place to 
stand till the dough has doubled in size. Divide 
into loaves and make up quickly on a floured board. 
Put the bread on lightly greased earthenware bak- 
ing dishes, or tins, and stand in a warm place to 
prove (to rise again) for about ten minutes. Bake 
in a hot oven; the heat can be reduced once the 
bread is set. 

When the bread is ready the crust will sound 
hollow when tapped, and a skewer run into the loaf 
will come out clean. 

The loaves should be placed on a wire stand or 
sieve, to let out the steam. 

Dough will rise well on the plate rack of a gas 
stove, over a lighted gas ring turned to its lowest 
point. 

The flour used for bread may be half wholemeal^ 
and half household. Milk whole, skimmed or 
separated may be used instead of water for mixing, 
making a moister bread. 

Loaves may be cottage, brunswick, brick, tin, 
twists, knots, &c. A piece of the bread dough 
should always be made into small rolls of any of 
these shapes. When baking rolls, brush over with 
a little eggy or milk, to glaze. 

VIENNA BREAD 

White Flour, i lb. White Sugar, i teaspoon 

Yeast, ^4 oz. Butter, i oz. 

Egg, I Milk, 5^ pint 

166 



BREAD 

Warm and sift tlie flour. Warm the milk. 
Cream the yeast and sugar together, add a little 
warm milk, and stir smooth. Make a hole in the 
flour, pour in the yeast, sprinkle with flour, put a 
teaspoonful of salt round the edges. Cover the 
basin with a cloth, and put in a warm place till the 
flour begins to crack and the yeast to rise. Melt 
the butter in the milk, and warm to blood heat. 
Beat the egg, add the milk to it; make a hole in the 
flour and pour in. Mix the dough from the middle 
with a wooden spoon till the basin is left clean. 
Knead till very light and elastic. Cover with a 
warm cloth and stand in a warm place till the dough 
doubles in size. Make up half into a plait or twist 
and divide the rest into rolls of equal sizes. Prove 
for a few minutes; brush over with egg and bake 
the bread quicklj^ 



BREAKFAST ROLLS 

Flour, I lb. Salt, i teaspoon 

Paisley Flour, 2 oz. Milk, }4 pint about 

Butter, 3 oz. 

Sift the flours together ; rub in the butter lightly, 
add the salt, and mix from the centre (using a 
wooden spoon) with enough milk to make an elastic 
dough. Divide into 12 or more pieces; form 
quickly into rolls, put on a lightly-greased baking 
tin, glaze with egg and bake quickly. The butter 
may be reduced in quantity or omitted. Baking 
powder may be used instead of Paisley flour. 

167 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

BREAKFAST SCONES 

Flour, Yz lb. Salt, i teaspoon 

Wholemeal Flour, >^ lb. Butter Milk or Sour 

Paisley Flour, 2 or 3 oz. Milk 
Butter, 3 oz. 

Sift the flours together; rub in the butter, add 
salt, and a teaspoon of sugar. Mix froin the centre 
(with a wooden spoon) with enough milk to make an 
elastic dough. Turn on a floured board, roll out 
about half an inch thick, cut in rounds or triangles. 
Put these on a lightly greased tin, and bake quickly 
in a hot oven. Or cook on a girdle, turning the 
scones w^hen one side is slightly brown. Baking 
powder, according to directions, can be used instead 
of Paisley flour. The butter may be omitted, or 
nut butter substituted. 

SCOTCH SCONES 

Flour, I lb. Cream of Tartar, i tea- 

Carbonate of Soda, I spoon 

teaspoon Buttermilk or Sour Milk 

Sift together the flour, soda, and cream of tartar. 
Make a hole in the centre of the flour, pour in 
sufficient milk to make an elastic dough, and mix 
quickly and thoroughly. Roll out about an inch 
thick, cut in rounds, and bake in a hot oven. Or 
cook on a warmed and greased girdle on the top of 
the stove, turning the scones when one side is 
brown. 

SMALL TEA SCONES 

Flour, li lb. Butter, 2 oz. 

Paisley Flour, i oz. Sugar, i teaspoon 

Bgg, I Milk 

168 



BREAD 

Sift the flours into a basin ; rub in the butter, add 
sugar, a pinch of salt, and mix with the beaten egg 
and milk. Turn on a lightly floured board, roll 
out rather thin, cut into fingers or rounds. Put on 
a lightly greased tin, brush over with egg (there 
should be enough left in the basin in which the egg 
was beateo) and bake quickly. Split, and butter, 
and serve verj^ hot. 



Z69 




CAKES 

OUSBHOLD flour makes good Cakes. 
If a finer flour is wanted, part cornflour, 
potato flour, or ground rice can be used. 
In making Cakes the flour must always be dry, 
and warm; the baking powder. Paisley flour, or 
other raising, must be mixed in with the flour, 
and all well sifted together. 

The butter used should always be fresh. Vege- 
table butters or lard make good Cakes. Also 
dripping, which should be creamed on a plate before 
using. 

Eggs must always be fresh. A little milk may 
often take the place of an egg. 

To clean currants, sultanas, and raisins, rub the 
fruit in flour, place it on a wire sieve, shake off 
the loose flour, and pick out all the stalks carefully. 
Cut open the raisins, remove the stones, keeping a 
small basin of warm water near for the fingers. 

Candied peel if hard should be soaked in boiling 
water and dried, before cutting up. 

To grease cake tins, keep lard in a small tin or 
jar, stand it on the stove to melt before using. 
Keep a brush for brushing the lard over cake tins 
and lining paper. 

To line a cake tin, take good kitchen paper, turn 
the tin over, cut a round rather larger than the 

170 



CAKES 

bottom of the tin. Cut a strip of paper for the 
sides, higher than the tin, to hold the mixture 
should it rise above. Brush over both tin and 
paper with lard, put in the bottom paper first and 
fit it well. 

To bake Cakes, the oven must be hot enough to 
make the mixture rise. Small Cakes are baked 
sharply. With large Cakes the heat should be 
slightly reduced when the Cake has risen and set. 
In baking a large Cake it is generally a good plan 
to place the tin on an open (barred) sheet, and to 
remove the top iron sheet. If a Cake is browning 
too much it may be covered with a paper. If 
catching at the bottom an asbestos mat may be 
slipped under the tin. 

The oven door should be opened as little as pos- 
sible, and shut gently. 

It is impossible to give accurate times for baking, 
which vary with the size of the tin and Cake, the heat 
of the oven, and other conditions. A Cake which is 
thick and high will take longer to bake than one 
of the same weight placed in a large shallow tin. 
A Cake when ready feels firm in the centre of the 
top. Try the thickest part of it with a skewer; if 
it comes out clean with no dough sticking to it, the 
cake is ready. A Cake mixed with treacle requires 
careful baking, as it catches easily. Sponge Cakes 
require a very even heat, and are easiest baked in 
saucer or small tins. 

To turn out Cakes. All Cakes are turned out on 
a wire tray or sieve to allow of the escape of steam. 
Large Cakes are less likely to break if allowed to 

171 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

stand for a couple of minutes after taking out 
of the oven. Turn the tin on one side, slide the 
Cake out carefully, and remove the paper. Tins 
in which Cakes are baked should be rubbed out 
with soft paper while hot, and allowed to get cold 
before putting away. They should never be 
washed. 

Cakes are kept in airtight tins. 

METHODS IN THE MAKING OF CAKES 

The principal mixtures in cake making are the 
Rubbed, the Beaten, and the Sponge. When these 
three methods are mastered. Cakes can be varied 
indefinitely, in flavour, shape, and colour. With 
the rubbed mixture (as Fruit Cake), the butter is 
rubbed into the flour with the tips of the fingers. 
All dry ingredients are prepared and added, and 
eggs, milk, and treacle are used to mix to a stiff 
dough. With the beaten mixture (as Madeira 
Cake), the butter and sugar are creamed together, 
the yolks of eggs are beaten in, the flour warmed 
and sifted ; and the whites of eggs, beaten stiff, are 
folded in gradually, keeping the mixture light. 
With the sponge mixture (as Sponge Cake), the 
eggs and sugar are beaten together till very thick 
and creamy, the flour, warmed and sifted, is folded 
in very carefully, keeping the mixture very light. 
Most Cakes are variations of one of these mixtures. 
When making large Cakes of any kind it is a good 
plan tc take out some of the mixture and make 
small Buns or Cakes to be eaten first. 

A spatula, (or palette knife), is invaluable for 

172 



CAKES 

cleaning out basins ; also for beating whites of eggs 
on a plate. 

Sour milk can always be used in the mixing of 
Cakes, and makes them lighter and more spongy 
than sweet milk. 

To fold in eggs, etc. In mixing a Cake as much 
air is put in as possible, to make it light; for this 
reason eggs are beaten. If these are stirred into 
the mixture the eggs go down again. To fold in 
is to put in with a wide sweep of the spoon, so as 
to add tOi and not flatten out the air. 

To weigh treacle. Sift a little flour lightly on to 
the scale, pour in the treacle carefully, stopping it 
with a knife. Lift the scale tin, and turn quickly 
right over, letting the treacle fall into the Cake 
mixture. The tin will be quite dry and clean. 

FRUIT CAKE 

Flour, I lb. Currants, 4 oz. 

Paisley Flour, 2 oz. or Sultanas or Raisins, 4 

Baking Powder, 3 tea- oz. 

spoons Mixed Peel, 2 oz. 

Butter, 4 oz. Spices, to taste 

Brown Sugar, 4 oz. Golden Syrup, 4 oz. 

Pinch of Salt Eggs, 2, and Milk 

Grease and line the tin, or tins. Sift the flour 
and baking powder into a basin, rub in the butter 
with the tips of the fingers. Add the raw brown 
sugar (no lumps), the fruit, cleaned, picked, and 
stoned; the peel, cut small; a grating of nutmeg, 
a pinch of ground ginger, and powdered cinnamon. 
Mix all the dry ingredients thoroughly together 
with a wooden spoon. Beat the eggs to a light 

173 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

froth. Make a hole in the centre of the flour, pour 
in the eggs, the syrup, and a little milk as required. 
Mix very thoroughly to a stiff dough. Bake at 
once, in one or two tins. Or take out a portion 
and make into small Buns. Syrup, or treacle, 
make the Cake richer and darker in colour, and 
keeps it moist; but is of course not necessary. 
Treacle is more easily mixed if first warmed, 
standing the tin on the stove. 

This is a standard mixture. More butter may 
be used if a richer Cake is wanted. The fruit and 
quantities, syrup, spices and flavourings are altered 
according to taste. 

Seed Cake. — Substitute i oz. of carraway 
seeds (or powdered carraways), and 4 oz. or more 
of candied peel, for the fruit given in Fruit Cake. 

Coconut Cake. — Substitute 6 oz. or more of 
grated coconut for the fruit given in Fruit Cake, 
and flavour with a few drops of almond essence. 

ROCK BUNS 
Flour, y2 lb. Candied Peel, i oz. 

Baking Powder, i tea- Currants, 2 oz. 

spoon Sugar, 2 oz. 

Butter, 2 oz. Sour Milk 

Sift the flour and baking powder; rub in the 
butter, add the cleaned currants, the crushed sugar, 
the peel cut in small squares, a pinch of salt, a 
pinch of spice (if liked), and mix all the dry 
ingredients well together. Make a hole in the 
centre, put in the beaten ^%^^ and mix all to a stiff 

174 



CAKES 

dough, adding a little sour milk as required. 
Grease a flat tin, take out small pieces of the dough 
with a teaspoon, and place them on the tin, leaving 
room for rising. Bake quickly in a hot oven. 
Should the mixture be too slack, it should be put 
in flat tins with holes (generally twelve to a tin), or 
the buns will run into each other. 

Seed BuNvS. — Substitute half an oz. of carra- 
way seeds (or powdered carraways), and 2 oz. of 
candied peel, for the fruit given in Rock Buns. 

Coconut Buns. — Substitute 4 oz. of coconut 
for the fruit given in Rock Buns, and flavour with 
a few drops of almond essence. 

Oatmeai. Buns. — Use half medium oatmeal and 
half flour, and flavour with spices. Make as Rock 
Buns. 

GINGERBREAD CAKE 

Flour, 10 oz. Treacle, 4 oz. 

Butter, 2 oz. Carbonate of Soda, i tea- 

Candied Peel, 2 oz. spoon 

Ground Ginger, 3 tea- i Egg 

spoons Sour Milk 

Brown Sugar, 4 oz. 

Warm and sift the flour, rub in the butter (or 
creamed dripping), add the ginger, the cut up peel, 
the raw brown sugar, and mix all well together. 
Make a hole in the centre; pour in the beaten egg, 
the warmed treacle, the carbonate of soda dissolved 
in a little warm milk. Mix and beat very 
thoroughly with a wooden spoon, adding more mill; 
if required. iThis is a rather slack mixture. 

175 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Crease a Yorkshire pudding tin carefully, and line 
with greased paper, if the tin is thin. Put in the 
mixture and bake rather slowly. Small Ginger 
Cakes can be made, taking out some of the mixture 
and putting it with a teaspoon in small tins. A 
blanched almond, or slice of candied peel mav be 
put on each small Cake when half baked. 

MADEIRA CAKE 

Butter, 4 oz. Paisley Flour, i oz., or 
White Sugar, 4 oz. Baking Powder, i tea- 
Eggs, 3 spoon 
Flour, 5 oz. 

Prepare the tins, large or small, by brushing over 
with melted lard, and stand them in a warm place. 
Line the tins with paper if necessary. Stand the 
flour on the plate rack to warm. Put the butter m 
a basin, in cold weather slightly warm it. Beat to 
a cream with a wooden spoon. Sift in the castor 
sugar, and beat. Add the yolks of eggs one by 
one, and beat in. Sift the flour and Paisley flour; 
whisk the whites of eggs to a stiff froth. Fold 
these in gradually, keeping the mixture light. 
Flavour with a few drops of essence of lemon, and 
bake at once. Instead of Paisley flour, one tea- 
spoon of baking powder to 6 oz. of flour can be used. 
One Qgg may be omitted, and a little sour milk (or 
sweet) take its place. This is a standard mixture, 
and makes one Cake, or about twenty-four or thirty 
small ones. Flavouring, colour and shape are 
altered according to taste and available materiaL 
Small Cakes are generally preferred for afternoon 

176 



CAKES 

tea, and are more easily baked than large ones. 
Flat tins with twelve holes (plain or fancy) are used. 
The following Cakes are all made with the beaten, 
or Madeira mixture. 

Cherry CakEvS are flavoured with cherry 
essence, a few drops of carmine to colour, and glace 
cherries cut in halves are stirred in. A whole 
cherry for the top of each small Cake. 

Orange and Lemon Cakes are flavoured with 
the grated rind. Candied peel cut up small 
is stirred in, and a piece of orange or lemon peel on 
the top of each Cake. Add a few drops of carmine 
to colour Orange Cakes. 

Walnut Cakes are flavoured with a few drops 
of essence of almond. Pieces of broken dried 
walnut are stirred into the mixture, and a half 
walnut placed lightly on each small Cake before 
baking. 

Almond Cakes are flavoured with a few drops 
of almond essence. The nuts are blanched, 
dried in the oven, a few chopped up and stirred 
into the mixture, a half almond placed lightly on 
each cake before baking. Or Pistache nuts. 

Coconut Cakes. — Stir about 3 oz. of grated 
coconut into the mixture and add a few drops of 
almond essence. 

Chocolate Cakes. ^In making these substi- 
tute I oz. of good rich cocoa for i oz. of flour, add 
a little extra sugar, and flavour liberally with 
vanilla essence. 

177 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Coffee Cakes. — Flavour a Madeira cake mix- 
ture with coffee extract and vanilla essence. 

Snow CakEvS. — In making these substitute 
cornflour or potato flour for ordinary flour. Or if 
the Cakes are preferred less crumbly, use part 
ordinary and part Potato flour. When the small 
Cakes are just done, brush over lightly with white 
of egg, sprinkle with chopped Pistache nuts, and 
dry one minute in the oven. 

Victoria Sandwich. — Make a beaten, or 
Madeira mixture, bake it on a greased flat tin. 
When cool, cut it through, spread with warm jam, 
and cut in fingers. Or it may be baked in saucer 
tins, cut through when cool, spread with jam, and 
cut in triangles. 

CAvSTLe Puddings. — Make a beaten, or Madeira 
mixture, bake in small Darriole tins, which 
must be only half filled. These are eaten hot or 
cold, with a jam or wine sauce. 

SPONGE CAKE 

Eggs, 2 Flour, 3 oz. 

Sugar, 4 oz. Vanilla Essence 

Grease the tin or tins and keep them warm, and 
warm the flour. Break in a basin two large eggs 
(or three small). Beat with a flat whisk, add the 
fine white sugar, and beat till thick, creamy and 
very light. (In cold weather stand the basin over 
warm water). Sift the flour (5^ a teaspoon baking 
powder may be added) and fold it in very carefully, 
keeping the mixture light. Flavour with vanilla. ) 

178 



CAKES 

A Sponge Cake is best baked in a deep thick saucer 
tin with plain or fluted edges, or in small plain or 
fancy tins, which must be well greased. Careful 
baking is necessary. The top iron sheet should be 
taken out of the oven; the door opened as little as 
possible, and shut quietly. All Cakes must be 
turned on a wire tray or sieve to cool. This is a 
standard mixture, flavouring, colour and shape may 
be altered to taste. The following Cakes are made 
with the same mixture. 

Orange Sponge Cake. — Grate the rind of one 
or two oranges (the clean yellow only). Stir it 
into the Sponge Cake mixture, with a few drops of 
carmine to deepen the colour; make in one Cake, 
or a dozen or more small ones. Cover with orange 
icing if liked. 

Lemon Cake. — Make a Sponge mixture and 
bake in a deep saucer tin. When cool split, and 
spread with lemon curd. Cover the cake with 
lemon icing and decorate with crystalised lilac and 
Pistache nuts. 

Chocolate Sponge Cake. — A Sponge Cake 
mixture, using three small eggs, ^ oz. extra 
sugar, and i oz. of good rich cocoa sifted in with 
the flour. Flavour liberally with essence of vanilla. 

Jam Sandwich. — Make a Sponge Cake mix- 
ture, and bake in a deep saucer tin. When cool, 
cut through, spread with warm jam, and press 
lightlj^ together. Or bake in two shallow saucer 
tins, and put jam in between. This may be iced. 

Swiss Roi.1.. — Prepare a shallow flat Swiss 

179 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

roll tin, well greasing it, keep it warm. Make a 
Sponge Cake mixture, pour it in the tin, spread 
to even thickness with a spatula. Take out the 
top iron sheet and bake in a hot oven for about 
seven to ten minutes. Warm some jam, with a 
very little water. Turn the sponge very carefully 
on a paper sprinkled with sugar; cut off the edges 
quickly with a sharp knife if they are at all hard. 
Spread quickly with the jam, and roll up at once. 
No time must be lost in spreading the jam, or the 
Cake will crack and not roll properly. Half a tea- 
spoon of baking powder may be added to the flour. 

SHREWSBURY CAKES 

Flour, Yz lb. Ground Ginger, ^ tea- 

Butter, 4 oz. spoon 

Sugar, 4 oz. Egg, i 

Rub the butter in the sifted flour ; add fine white 
sugar, the ground ginger, or powdered cinnamon. 
Mix as dry as possible, using only as much ^g% as 
necessary. Tidy with the hand, flour the board 
lightly, and the rolling pin; beat and roll out the 
paste thin. Cut into rounds, put on greased tins, 
and bake a light brown. Turn on a wire tray or 
sieve. 

OATMEAI. BISCUITS 

Flour, 5 oz. Brown Sugar, 3 oz. 

Oatmeal (medium), 4 oz. Egg, i 
Butter or Lard, 3 oz. Salt 

Rub the fat into the sifted flour; add all the dry 
ingredients and a pinch of salt. Mix to a dry paste 
with the ^^^. Roll out thin on a lightly floured 

180 



CAKES 

board ; cut in rounds, and bake on a greased tin in 
a moderate oven till the biscuits are a light brown. 
Cool on a wire tray or sieve. 

TO ICE CAKES 

The best icing sugar should be used. Pound it 
with a pestle in a mortar, and sift through a hair 
sieve. A spatula or flat knife with a flexible blade 
is the best for spreading Royal Icing, dipping it in 
water constantly. Ornamental icing is done with a 
forcing bag, screw and pipe, and can be flavoured 
and coloured to taste. Cakes may be decorated 
with glace fruits, especially Cherries, Angelica, 
crystalised Violets, Rose leaves, Lilac, Pistache 
nuts (blanched and chopped). Almonds (blanched 
and browned), Walnuts. These are arranged on 
the icing before it sets. 

ROYAL ICING 

White of I Egg Lemon Juice 

Icing Sugar, 3^ lb. 

Beat the white of egg in a basin till stiff ; fold the 
sifted sugar in gradually with a spoon, keeping it 
very light, and adding a few drops of lemon juice. 
The exact quantity of sugar cannot be given, de- 
pending on the size of the egg, but the above is an 
average. Lemon juice keeps the icing a good white. 
When the icing is of the right consistency, place 
some in the centre of the Cake, and spread it over 
with the wet palette knife. Let this set in a warm 
place. Decorate later with fancy icing or fruits. 

Icing left over should be covered with wet tissue 

181 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

paper, and must be worked up with a few drops of 
lemon juice before using again. 

Orange Icing. — Orange juice, and a few drops 
of yellow and carmine added to Royal Icing. 

Raspberry Icing. — Add carmine and a few drops 
of raspberry essence. 

CHOCOI.ATE Icing. — Add half an ounce of good 
cocoa and some vanilla essence to the Royal Icing. 

FONDANT ICING 
Icing Sugar, 5^ lb. Water, i tablespoon 

Put the water and sifted sugar in a small bright 
pan. Stir with a small wooden spoon over gentle 
heat (use an asbestos mat) till the fondant is the 
consistency of thick cream. Pour the icing over 
the Cake at once. Orange, Lemon, Raspberry, 
Coffee (essence). Chocolate Icing in the same way, 
putting in the flavourings and colour to taste. Or 
the icing may be flavoured with liqueur. 

FRENCH ICING 
Icing Sugar, % lb. Fruit Juice 

Sift the sugar into a basin, mix with a little fruit 
juice (orange, lemon, currants, etc.), and work very 
well with a wooden spoon till creamy. Spread the 
icing on a Sponge or other Cake, and sprinkle with 
chopped burnt almonds. 

VIENNA ICING 

Fresh Butter, 2 oz. Essence of Coffee 

Icing Sugar, 4 oz. 

182 



CAKES 

Beat the butter to a cream, and beat in the sifted 
sugar. Add drop by drop as much essence of coffee 
as is required. Spread the icing on a Mocha Cake, 
and decorate with lilac and small leaves of angelica. 
The Cake may be cut through, and spread with a 
layer of the Icing 

SANDWICHES FOR AFTERNOON TEA 

Sandwiches for afternoon tea may be varied in- 
definitely according to taste and available material. 
Bread may be white or brown; cut in fingers, 
rounds, crescents, triangles. Or small finger rolls 
may be used. 

Whipped or clotted cream may take the place of 
butter. Savoury Sandwiches may be filled with 
potted Strasburg Meat, Game, Foie Gras, Salmon 
or Lobster Paste. Or hard boiled yolk of egg 
pounded wdth butter and seasoned. Or tomato or 
cucumber, cut in slices and seasoned. Or mustard 
and cress. 

Sweet Sandwiches maj^ have a filling of Jam, 
Honey, Chocolate (grated and mixed with cream, 
and flavoured), Chopped nuts, etc. 



183 



THE LARDER AND SCRAPS 



A 



GOOD housekeeper will aim at havin'^ 
fresh food daily, and will so order meals 
that there will be little left from day 
to day. A regular inspection of the larder will 
be found of great help in drawing up the day's 
menus. The planning and arranging for the 
using up of scraps is a real satisfaction. Nothing 
that has a food value should be thrown away. 
No scraps are too small to be of use, but they 
should be eaten while fresh and sweet. 

Egg. A boiled tgg left over can be warmed up 
without hardening; or it may be hard boiled and 
made into a savoury ; or put into sauce, or used as 
a garnish for salad, etc. 

A broken egg, or part of one. Cover this with 
wet tissue paper to prevent drying, and it may be 
kept a day. It can be put into soup, sauce, or used 
for brushing over. 

Several recipes are given for using up cold meat, 
game, fish and vegetables. Scraps of any of these 
may be made into savoury toasts, etc. (see Sav- 
ouries), using judgment as to mixing and seasoning. 

White or brown sauce, even a teaspoonful is of 
value. With a small quantity of fish it suggests 
scollops, fish balls, savouries. A spoonful of cooked 
Spinach will make Spinach Soup or a savoury toast. 

184 



THE LARDER AND SCRAPS 

Potatoes and other vegetables, if not overcooked 
in the first instance, are delicious fried up, or 
warmed with a little butter (mixed or otherwise). 

The end of a rice or other milk pudding will go 
to the making of small Creams (see Creams). 

Stewed fruit will make a Fool or Cream with the 
addition of a small quantity of cream. 

Stale cake or biscuits suggest a Cabinet Pudding, 
or a sweet dish arranged with custard and jam. 

Stale bread will make white crumbs, golden 
crumbs, toast, crisps, fried bread ; and can be used 
in sweet and savoury puddings. 

COLD MEAT 

Cold meat should be daintily served. A joint 
must be tidied and the dry outside cut ofE before 
sending to table. Any salad stuff can be used for 
a garnish ; or parsley, cold vegetables, or pickles. 
When a joint looks mean the meat should be neatly 
cut off and arranged on a dish. A sharp knife is 
necessary for good carving. 

Any cold meat will make a Meat Salad. 

Cold chicken will make a Chicken Salad, or 
Mayonnaise. 

Made Dishes. Meat, poultry, fish, vegetables 
already cooked must not be recooked. They may 
be warmed, requiring a good gravy, sauce, milk or 
butter, in order to keep up a food value. Cooked 
meat will not make a gravy. These are important 
facts and should be remembered. Meat cut up by 
hand has more flavour than when put through a 
mincing machine, and is easier to digest. All skin 

185 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

and gristle should be carefully cut off in made up 
meat dishes. 

MEAT vSALAD (see Salads) 

CHICKEN vSALAD (see Salads) 

RUSSIAN FII.LETS 

Cut rounds of cold juicy beef, about Yz inch 
thick. Brush these over with glaze, and arrange 
down the centre of a dish, with a Russian Salad of 
any cooked vegetables round (see Russian Salad). 
Rounds of veal or mutton may be served in the 
same way. 

RUSSIAN CUTLETS 

Take cold neck of lamb or mutton; divide and 
trim the cutlets, a bone to each. Brush over with 
glaze, wrap silver paper round the end of each 
bone, and arrange down the centre of a dish with 
a cold vegetable salad round. (See Russian Salad.) 

GRILLED BONES 

Take a shoulder of mutton, or other bone, with 
some meat left on it. Score it with a sharp knife-, 
brush over with salad oil, or melted butter. Grill 
sharply, season highly; place on a hot dish with 
a little piece of butter, and serve at once. 

Chicken or turkey legs may be grilled or devilled. 

DEVILLED BONES 

Mix cayenne, black pepper and salt for season- 
ing. Cook as Grilled Bones. Serve with a Devil 

i86 



THE LARDER AND SCRAPS 

Sauce (see Sauces). Or the grilled bones may be 
simmered for 15 minutes in the sauce. 

POTATO PIE 

Cut up cold meat in dice, put in a pie, or fireproof 
or souffle dish, season well. Pour over a good and 
well-flavoured gravy. A small quantity of cold 
peas, French beans or carrots may be added if con- 
venient.- Cover the dish with mashed potato, rake 
the top with a fork, and dot with small pieces of 
dripping. Or cut cold potatoes in slices, cover the 
dish, and put pieces of dripping on top. Stand the 
dish at the back of the stove for about an hour to 
soak and slightly warm; or on a mat over very 
little gas. Brown the potatoes sharply under the 
grill, before the fire, or in a very hot oven. 

STUFFED MARROW 

Cut fine any scraps of meat or bird, ham or 
tongue, and season well. Peel a green marrow, cut 
it in halves lengthwise, take out the seeds; fill it 
with the mince and tie up with a broad tape. 
Cook in a steamer; or in a small quantity of stock 
in a stewpan ; or in the oven. Dish the marrow as 
soon as a skewer will go in. If overcooked it will 
be soft and watery. Drain for a couple of minutes, 
dish, take off the tape, and cover the marrow with 
a good White Sauce. Or brush the marrow over 
with glaze and pour a little gravy round. 

MUTTON HASH 

Cut cold mutton in neat slices, remove the skin 

187 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

and gristle, and put between two plates on the rack 
to warm. Cut some onions (according to size) in 
rings. Heat a little dripping in a small casserole 
and fry the onions brown. Add seasoned flour to 
the onions (one tablespoon flour, one teaspoon salt, 
^ teaspoon pepper), stir with a knife till the flour 
is brown and the fat absorbed (there must not be 
enough fat to make the hash greasy). Add a tea- 
spoon each of Worcester, Ketchup, Tomato and 
Anchovy Sauces, and a small quantity of good 
stock. Boil for some minutes to cook the flour. 
Lift the pan off the fire, lay in the meat, and cover 
it. Stand the pan for an hour or less at the back 
of the stove ; or on an asbestos mat with very little 
gas under. A teaspoon of red or black currant, 
or blackberry jelly, or port wine, greatly improves 
the gravy, which should be a dark brown in colour. 
The stock can be made from the bones of the joint, 
adding some Lemco or other extract, or glaze. The 
hash may be served in the casserole; or the slices 
neatly arranged on a dish and the gravy poured 
round. Baked tomatoes as a vegetable. 

BEEF MINCE 

Cut beef, or other meat, in dice, remove all skin 
and gristle. Cook as Mutton Hash (see recipe), 
but mince the onions. If the quantity of meat is 
scanty, fry triangles of bread and serve round the 
dish. Or fry squares or rounds of bread, about yi 
inch thick, and put the mince on. A mince should 
have very little loose gravy ; if there should be too 
much, let the pan stand on the stove without a lid. 

i88 



THE LARDER AND SCRAPS 

DUCHESS CUTLETS 

Divide cutlets from cold neck of lamb or mutton, 
a bone to each. Trim; with a knife cover with cold 
Onion or other White Sauce; Qgg, breadcrumb, and 
fry in deep fat to a golden brown. Dish the cut- 
lets, wrap silver paper round the end of each bone, 
and put peas or French beans round. 

RISSOLES 

Take cold beef or mutton, cut up fine, season 
well, and put in a basin. Make a Panada (see 
Sauces) and stir to the meat. Let this get cold. 
Divide the mixture into halves, and quarters, and 
take an equal number of pieces out of each, so the 
Rissoles are of even size. Make into balls, using 
a little flour on the outside only. Brush over with 
eggf and roll in white crumbs. Fry a few at a 
time in smoking fat, suf&ciently deep to cover the 
Rissoles. Drain on soft paper. Serve the Rissoles 
piled up on a dish paper, and garnish with fresh or 
fried parsley. They should be golden brown. 

Durham Cutlets. — Make a Rissole mix- 
ture, adding a small quantity of French beans, 
carrots, or other cooked vegetables. Put this to 
cool on a large plate. To shape the cutlets, cut 
across in halves and quarters, and again into as 
many pieces as cutlets required ; they will need very 
little shaping. This is done on a floured board, 
using a knife. Egg, breadcrumb, and fry as Ris- 
soles. Dish the cutlets leaning on each other down 
the centre of the dish. Garnish with peas or 
parsley. 

189 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Croquettes.-— Take cold veal and ham, rab- 
bit and pork, chicken and bacon, or game. The 
mixture is made as Rissoles, using milk or white 
stock in the Panada. Roll the balls out on a floured 
board, altering the shape to small rolls. Arrange 
the Croquettes down the centre of the dish. Gar- 
nish with French beans. 

French Croquettes. — Roll out some pastry 
very thin, cut squares or rounds, and wet the 
edges. Put in the centre of each small pieces ot 
Rissole or Croquette mixture. Fold over and 
press the edges together; brush with egg, roll in 
crushed vermicelli, and fry as Rissoles. 

Potato Rissoi^ES. — Take mashed potato, roll it 
out lightly on a floured board. Cut rounds, put in 
the centre of each a small quantity of finely minced 
and well seasoned meat. Work the potato over, 
making into the shape of an egg; rub in flour, 
brush over with egg, breadcrumb, and fry in deep 
fat. Garnish with parsley. 

<CURRY 

Cold Meat Stock and Sauces 

Onion Curry Powder, Flour 

Dripping Coconut, Raisins 

Cut any cooked meat in dice. Heat a small piece 
of dripping in a casserole, cut an onion in slices and 
fry. When it is brown, add a dessert spoon of 
curry powder and a dessert spoon of flour mixed 
together (according to taste and the quantity of 

190 



THE LARDER AND SCRAPS 

meat). Stir till the flour is brown and smooth, and 
all the fat is absorbed (there must not be much fat, 
or the Curry will be greasy) . Add a teaspoon each 
of Worcester, Mushroom, vTomato, and Anchovy 
Sauces, and about 5^ pint of brown stock or gravy. 
Let this boil for five minutes to cook the flour and 
curry powder. Lift the pan off the fire, and stir in 
the cold meat. Place the pan at the back of the 
stove (or on an asbestos mat over very little gas) 
for about an hour, stirring occasionally. Add a 
few stoned raisins, or sultanas, about an ounce of 
grated coconut, and at the last moment a few drops 
of lemon juice. A Curry should have no loose 
gravy ; if there should be too much, let the casserole 
stand uncovered on the stove. The colour of a 
Curry should be brown. 

Any cooked vegetables (potato excepted) may be 
put in a Curry, or a green apple, or some chutnee. 
A Curry may be made of any meat (mixed) or fish. 
Or vegetables, sausages, hard boiled eggs, etc. 
Curry is eaten with a dessert spoon and fork. Rice 
is always served with it. 

BOILED RICE 

Wash 4 oz. or more of Patna rice. Put it in a 
saucepan of fast boiling salted water. Cook un- 
covered, stirring it occasionally. When the rice is 
just soft (try it when it has boiled ten minutes), 
turn it on to a hair sieve. Rinse the pan out with 
hot water and pour over the rice. Stand the sieve 
for about half an hour on the plate rack (or other 
warm place), separating the grains with a fork every 

191 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

now and then. Rices vary so much that time for 
cooking cannot be given. Bach grain should be 
separate when cooked, and should offer enough re- 
sistance to require mastication. Rice if overcooked 
will not dry properlj^ The boiling of rice is sim- 
plified by using a special tin to hold it. A Curry 
and Boiled Rice should be served in two separate 
dishes of equal size. 

MEAT FRITTERS 

Make a good frying batter (see Frying Batter, or 
Pancake Batter). Cut meat, chicken or game, in 
neat pieces ; season, dip in the batter, covering well, 
and fry in boiling fat. Pieces of cold cauliflower, 
or other vegetables, may be used up in the same 
dish. 

FISH SALAD 

Any cold fish, freed from skin and bone^ will 
make a salad (see Salads). 

Cold salmon may have vinegar poured over it, 
and be served with or without a salad. 

FISH BALLS ' \ 

Take cold fish off the bones, remove the skin» . 
and flake it with two forks. Mix the fish with cold 
White Sauce, adding a little Anchovy essence, and | 
seasoning. Divide the mixture into equal sized ? 
portions ; flour the hand and board lightly, and , 
make into balls. Rub over flour, brush with beaten 
egg, roll in white crumbs and fry in deep fat till a 
golden brown. Drain the balls on soft paper, serve 
on a dish paper, and garnish with parsley. 

192 



THE LARDER AND SCRAPS 

FISH CAKES 

Take cold fish, remove the skin and bone, and 
divide into flakes. Add some mashed potato, 
season with salt and pepper, a few drops of Anchovy 
or chopped parsley. A small quantity of beaten 
egg may be added if available, or a little melted 
butter or dripping, if too dry. Divide the mixture 
in equal pieces; flour the hand, make each piece 
into a ball, and flatten on a floured board, making 
a round cake. Egg and breadcrumb, and fry a few 
at a time in smoking fat, deep enough to cover the 
cakes. When a golden brown, drain on paper, 
garnish with parsley. 

SCOLLOPED FISH 

Take Scallop shells, small souffle cases, or a fire- 
proof dish. Melt a little butter in each. Prepare 
and flake any cold fish, season well, mix with a 
little sauce, fish stock, cream or milk. Put this 
into the shells, cover with brown bread crumbs, and 
lay small pieces of butter on each. Sometimes a 
little grated cheese. Warm through in the oven, 
but do not dry the fish. If required more brown, 
put the shells under the gas grill. 

KEDGEREE 

Cold Fish Eggs, i hard boiled, i 

Boiled Rice raw 

Butter 

Boil one tgg hard, shell it and chop up the white. 
Take some cold fish, flake it, removing the skin 
and bones. Take some cold boiled rice. Melt 
G 193 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

about an ounce of butter in a small casserole, put 
in the fish, rice, chopped white, and a beaten Qgg; 
season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of Coralline. 
Stir over the fire till quite hot. Pile the Kedgeree 
on a hot fireproof dish; rub the hard yolk of egg 
through a wire strainer, over the top, and brown 
lightly under the gas grill. Garnish with parsley. 

FISH CURRY 

Flake the fish, proceed as with Meat Curry, using 
fish stock or milk. Serve with rice. 

COLD VEGETABLES 

Potatoes if firm and waxy make a good salad (see 
Potato Salad). 

Potatoes Buttered. — Take cold new or waxy 
potatoes. Put them in a double pan (boiling 
water in the outside one), with a good piece of 
butter, pepper and salt. Stand over the fire till the 
potatoes are hot through. Sometimes add a sprink- 
ling of chopped parsley. Any one vegetable may 
be warmed up this way, or seyeral vegetables mixed. 
A gourmet or stone jar is most useful for warming 
up. 

Fried Potatoes. — Cut cold potatoes in slices. 
Heat a piece of dripping in a fry pan. When 
smoking, put in the potatoes and fry brown on both 
sides. Dish, and sprinkle with salt. 

CoLCANNON. — Fry cold potatoes as above; when 
brown, add cold cabbage, and cut and fry lightly 
together. Season well. 

194 



THE LARDER AND SCRAPS 

Potato CroquettEvS. — Take cold mashed potato, 
divide in equal pieces, make into balls, rolls, 
or pear shaped. Flour lightly, Qgg, breadcrumb, 
and fry in deep fat. Drain, and garnish with par- 
sley. A beaten egg may be added to the mashed 
potato. 

Potato au Gratin. — Melt butter in a small 
fireproof dish, cut cold potatoes in slices, and 
lay in. Make a small quantity of Cheese Sauce (or 
take cold White Sauce, smooth over the fire with a 
little milk and stir in grated cheese). Pour the 
sauce over the potatoes, sprinkle with brown 
crumbs, grated cheese, and seasoning. Warm 
through in the oven, or on an asbestos mat over 
gas. Place under the gas grill for a few minutes to 
brown. 

Vegetabi^e MouIvD. — Rub cold cabbage through 
a wire sieve, also some cold carrots, and tur- 
nips, keeping each vegetable separate. Add to 
each a little dissolved butter and seasoning. Grease 
a small plain mould, tin, or souffle dish ; put in the 
vegetables in layers, green, white, and red, and 
bake or steam till hot through. Turn out carefully. 
Other vegetables may be used up in the same way. 

Vegetable Soups. — Almost any cooked vege- 
table can be made into a Maigre Soup, with 
the addition of butter, generally a little flour, and 
milk or stock (see Soups). 

Vegetabi^e Entrees. — Almost any cooked vege- 
table may be minced, or mashed, or sieved; 
with added butter, cream, or egg; highly seasoned 

195 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

and flavoured, and served on toast. Or on fried 
bread, or in small cases as a Vegetable Entree or 
Savoury. 

SWEET DISHES 

Milk Puddings. — The remains of any milk 
pudding, freed from skin, may be made into small 
Creams (see Creams) or a Rice Meringue. 

Stewed Fruit, however small a quantity, will 
go to the making of a Cream or Fool (see Creams). 

Stale Cake may be spread with jam, covered 
with a custard, a little whipped cream on the top, 
and served as a sweet dish. 

STALE BREAD 

Toast, use yesterday's bread. With a sharp 
knife cut slices of even thickness. The fire must 
be clear or gas grill very hot so as to toast quickly. 
Turn the bread when one side is brown. Cut off 
the crust. Stand the toast in a warm place to allow 
the steam to escape. Toast should be made when 
required, it quickly hardens if made too soon. 

Buttered Toast. — Make a dish very hot, and 
stand it over hot water, make toast. Soften 
the butter with a knife, and spread it generously 
on the hot toast. Sprinkle with salt, stand a 
minute or two in a hot oven; cover the dish and 
serve over hot water. 

Dripping Toast. — Cream the dripping with 
a knife, spread on the hot toast ; sprinkle with salt, 

and serve very hot. 

196 



THE LARDER AND SCRAPS 

Fried Bread. — Cut bread into fingers, squares, 
triangles, or rounds. Heat bacon fat, or butter, 
dripping or vegetable fat, in a fry pan. When 
it smokes put in the bread and fry a golden 
brown. Drain on paper. Serve very hot with 
bacon, spinach, meat dishes, etc. 

CrisPvS. — Break bread up roughly (avoiding 
burnt or bottom crusts), put it on a tin, and bake 
in a hot oven till a golden brown. Serve hot. If 
the bread is dry, dip the pieces in milk before 
browning. 

White Crumbs. — These are made by rubbing 
stale bread through a wire sieve. They may be 
kept for some days. 

Brown Crumbs. — Take crusts from the top 
and side of the loaf, break up small and place on 
a tin in a moderate oven. When dry and crisp, 
and a golden brown (do not let the crusts become 
dark in colour), pound in a mortar, or roll on a 
board. Sift the crumbs through a fine wire 
strainer, and keep in a tin. 

Puddings. — Stale bread, as crumbs, or soaked 
in milk, custard or stock, may be used in the 
making of man}^ sweet and savoury puddings, such 
as Bread and Butter Pudding, Plum Pudding, 
German Fritters, Cheese Pudding, etc. 



197 



TINNED FOOD 

A GOOD housekeeper will be prepared for 
emergencies. Tinned foods are most use- 
ful. Provided reasonable care is taken, 
there is little more risk than with fresh food. 
(It is not suggested that tinned food be regu- 
larly used where fresh is to be had.) Tinned 
food should be of the best brand obtainable, and 
this season's goods. It is to be hoped that 
before long each tin will be marked with the 
date of canning. Damaged tins, and those re- 
duced in price, should not be bought. All tins 
should be cooled by soaking in cold water for some 
time before opening. Tins should be opened neatly, 
the lid cut right off, and all the contents turned at 
once into a basin (Sardines excepted). If there is 
even a doubtful smell or appearance the food should 
not be used. 

Soups. — Many are excellently put up, but they 
generally require more liquid than is given in the 
directions. Consomme is improved with a little 
wine, or with Italian paste. Grated cheese is often 
served with it. 

Fish. — Lobster and salmon are now wrapped in 
paper, avoiding contact with the tin. Both make 
good cutlets, fish balls, etc. Oysters make excel- 

198 



TINNED FOOD 

lent soup or sauce. Sardines, being preserved in 
oil, are kept in the tin. They are eaten cold, or 
made hot and served on toast or fried bread. 

Potted Meats and Fish, are most useful for 
sandwiches and savouries, but should not be kept 
for more than a few days once opened. 

Vegetables. — Baked Beans and Sweet Corn are 
excellent, and only require warming. 

Fruits in syrup are a real boon. Pineapple, 
whole or in chunks, Peaches, Apricots, etc., may be 
had in large or small tins. These fruits are deli- 
cious eaten as they are, but are much improved 
by boiling up the syrup with a little more sugar. 
When the syrup has boiled for a few minutes, 
remove the pan from the fire, put the fruit in the 
syrup carefully, cover, and let it stand till cold. 
A teaspoon of rum or brandy, or any liqueur, im- 
proves the syrup. In winter the fruits may be 
served warm. 

Biscuits. — Plain, Savoury, and Sweet, must be 
kept in separate tins. Biscuits containing butter 
(Shortbreads, etc.) should not be mixed with the 
others. If biscuits lose their crispness, put them 
on a tin in a hot oven for five minutes or more, 
turn on a wire tray or sieve, and put away when 
cold. Many biscuits may now be bought in Yz lb. 
packets, wrapped in greaseproof paper. 

Cakes. — One or two of the richer small cakes 
made by good firms and sold wrapped up in grease- 
proof paper, will keep fresh some time, and are 
aseful in an emergency. 

199 



DRINKS 

WATER for the table should be drawn 
at the last moment, it so quickly 
becomes stale and flat. Wherever 
possible the tap should run some time before 
filling the jugs, in warm weather especially, then 
the water will be cold. 

WATER. To Boil 

An 'Octopus' should be kept in every kettle to 
prevent furring, and must be constantly rinsed, 
especially where the water is hard. Kettles should 
be emptied and turned upside down every night. 
Water boils at a temperature of 212 degrees, when 
bubbles freely rise to the surface. For all drinks, 
fresh drawn and freshly boiled water is essential. 

TEA 

Tea should be of good quality and kept in an 
airtight tin, not in paper. Stand the teapot to 
warm on the stove with an asbestos mat under it. 
Allow about a teaspoon of tea to each person and 
one over (when numbers are large the proportion 
is reduced). Pour in the water immediately it boils, 
stand for a minute or two only, giving a light stir 
with a spoon. The teapot should be put away dry. 

COFFEE 

Coffee should be freshly roasted and ground, and 

200 



DRINKS 

kept in an airtight tin, not in paper. One ounce of 
coffee is allowed to each Yz pint of water. Two 
ounces coffee, one pint of water and one pint of 
milk make breakfast coffee for two persons, allow- 
ing two large cups each. Black coffee (for after 
dinner) is made stronger and in small quantity. 
Coffee is best made in an earthenware jug. Stand 
the dry jug (with the coffee) to warm on the stove, 
on an asbestos mat. Pour the water on the coffee 
immediately it boils, and stir well. Keep the jug 
standing on the stove for five to ten minutes; take 
off the froth with a spoon, and pour the coffee into 
another hot jug, through muslin if necessary. 

MILK. To Boil 

An earthenware pan or a boiler is the best for 
milk. It should stand on an asbestos mat. Milk 
is spoilt if really boiled, and should be taken off at 
scalding point, directly bubbles begin to rise. 

Milk for drinking should be poured into a glass 
early, and covered. The cream rises to the surface 
and is not wasted. 

If required warm, stand the covered glass (or jug) 
in a saucepan of hot water till sufficiently warm. 
Stir well as the milk in the bottom of the jug will 
be hottest. Milk should not be cooked and cooled. 

COCOA 

Cocoa has a high food value. It is an excellent 
cold weather drink or food. A good cocoa should 
be bought. Directions for making are always given 
with each brand. As a rule, the powder and sugar 

201 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

are mixed and moistened to a paste, the boiling 
water or milk poured over, and all well stirred or 
whisked. The flavour is improved by putting the 
mixed cocoa in a pan and bringing it just to the 
boil, whisking occasionally. 

LEMONADE 

Lemons, 2 or 3 Sugar, 2 ozs. (more or 

Water, i quart less) 

Choose ripe and clean lemons. With a sharp 
knife cut off the rind very thin; it must be yellow 
on both sides, with no scrap of white. Put the rind 
in a jug, add the loaf sugar (according to taste), 
pour over a pint of boiling water, cover closely and 
stand in a warm place for about an hour. Squeeze 
the lemons over a glass squeezer (being very careful 
to let no pip fall in). Add the juice and other pint 
of cold water, and let the lemonade get absolutel}/ 
cold. Less water may be used and the glasses filled 
up with soda water. 

LEMON SYRUP FOR LEMONADE ,' 

Citric Acid Crystals, Sugar, 4 lbs. 

4 ozs. Essence of Lemon, 4 

Water, 4 pints teaspoons 

Boil the water and loaf sugar, take off any scum, 
and pour into a large basin. When cool put in the 
crystals and stir occasionally with a wooden spoon, 
till they are dissolved. When the syrup is quite 
cold (it is a good plan to leave it all night), stir in 
the essence of lemon, mix well, and pour the syrup 
through muslin and a funnel into bottles. This 

202 



DRINKS 

quantity makes nearly four large bottles, and will 
keep a long time. 

To use, pour about a tablespoon of the syrup 
(according to taste) in a tumbler; fill up with water, 
or half soda water. 

BARI.EY WATER, Clear 

Pearl Barley, i oz. Sugar, i oz. 

Lemon, i Water, i% pints 

Scald the barley, throwing away the water. Put 
the barley in a jug with the very thin rind of a 
lemon, sugar, and pour boiling water over. Stir 
occasionally, keep covered till cold. Add the juice 
of the lemon, stir well^ and strain. 

PORRIDGE 
Medium Oatmeal, 2 ozs. Water, i pint 

Put the oatmeal in a double, or porridge, pan 
with boiling water in the outside pan. Pour over 
I pint of boiling water, and stir with a wooden 
spoon. Add a good pinch of salt, and keep the 
outside water boiling for half an hour or. more, 
stirring the porridge occasionally. Pour into small 
plates or saucers, and let the porridge set for a 
few minutes before putting on the table. Serve 
with milk or cream, sugar or syruD. 



203 



JAMS AND JELLIES 

FRUIT for preserving must be sound and 
gathered dry. Hard fruit should be wiped 
over with a dry cloth. The best cane 
sugar, crystals or loaf, is the most economical 
to use. 'Preserving Sugar' is often not clean. 
An earthenware pan is excellent for jam mak- 
ing, or thick enamel, or a metal pan can be 
used. It is a good plan to place an asbestos mat 
under the pan to prevent burning. The spoon for 
stirring must always be of wood. An enamel or 
silver one is used for skimming. 

To Preserve. — The fruit is picked over, put in 
the pan, brought slowlj^ to the boil and boiled for 
about ten minutes. (With hard fruits^ such as 
plums, a little water is put in the pan, as it is some 
time before any juice runs out.) The sugar is then 
slipped in gradually at the side of the pan, and all 
boiled quickly till the jam is ready. Stirring should 
be constant, and the scum taken off as it rises. It 
is a good plan to warm the sugar on a tin or dish 
before adding to the fruit. To each lb. of fruit a 
lb. or 3^ lb. of sugar is allowed, according to taste 
and the condition of the fruit. 

Times for jam making cannot be given accurately, 
depending on the condition of the fruit and the 
amount of heat used. When the jam looks glazed 

204 



JAMS AND JELLIES 

and boils quietly put a little on a plate to cool. If 
this sets or jellies the jam is ready. If not, con- 
tinue boiling and try again. 

To cover the jam, pour milk in a saucer, cut 
rounds of thick tissue paper, dip them in the milk, 
drain on a cloth, lay on the top of the pots or 
glasses and press gently to the sides. If the jam 
is to be packed, use parchment covers and tie round. 
Pots and glasses must be clean and dry, and should 
be filled up to the very top. 

RASPBERRY AND RED CURRANT JAM 

Raspberries, 6 lbs. Cane Sugar, 8 lbs. 

Currants, 2 lbs. 

Pick the raspberries, string the currants with a 
silver fork; put both in an earthenware pan and 
stand on a gentle heat_, with an asbestos mat under- 
neath. Stir till the fruit is hot and the juice begins 
to flow. Let the pan come slowly to the boil, and 
boil for 10 minutes. Slip the warm sugar in at the 
side of the pan, boil up quickly, take off all scum 
and stir all the time. Boil for 20 or 30 minutes, 
or till the jam will jelly. Put a spoonful on a plate,, 
let it cool. If the jam sets and hangs on the plate 
it is ready; if not, continue boiling and try again. 
The jam should have a bright colour. 

The quantities of the fruits are altered according 
to taste and convenience. 

Black Currant Jam. — Being a rich fruit a;^ 
gill of water is added to each pound of fruit. Make 
as raspberry jam. 

205 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

Strawberry Jam. — Strawberries for jam should 
be as small as possible, and gathered when the 
weather is dry. Make as raspberry jam. 

Cherry Jam. — Cherries should be stoned. 
Crack the stones and put in some of the kernels. 
Make as raspberry jam. 

P1.UM Jam. — Plums are wiped, cut in halves, 
and the stones taken out if the fruit is sufficiently 
ripe. Otherwise the stones will come to the top 
in cooking and should be taken out. Crack some 
of the stones with a weight, scald the kernels and 
stir into the jam when nearly done. Sometimes 
the plums are skinned.; with some varieties this is 
facilitated by dipping the fruit in scalding water. 

RHUBARB JAM 

Rhubarb, 8 lbs. Sweet Oranges, 4 (or 

Loaf Sugar, 8 lbs. less) 

Wipe the sticks of rhubarb (take off the skin if 

it is coarse), and cut in small equal pieces. Put in 

an earthenware or other pan ; add the juice and very 

finely cut orange rind (none of the white skin). 

Bring gently to the boilj, and boil for about 10 

minutes. Slip the warm sugar in at the side of , 

the pan and boil quickly till the jam will set. ■ 

Skim carefully. ;>> 

I 
ORBEN TOMATO JAM f 

Green Tomatoes Loaf or Crystal Sugar , 

Lemons | 

Take equal quantities of green tomatoes and 
sugar. Take the finely cut rind (no white) and the 

206 



JAMS AND JELLIES 

juice of a large lemon to each 3 or 4 lbs. of fruit. 
Wipe the tomatoes, cut in quarters, and remove 
the small hard pieces. Put in a preserving pan 
with the lemon juice and rind. When this has 
boiled for about 10 minutes, slip in the warm sugar 
and boil quicklj'- till the jam will set. Small 
almonds blanched, dried and split, may be stirred 
in when the jam is nearly ready. 

MARROW JAM 

Green Marrow Sugar 

Lemons 

Choose a dark green and unripe marrow. Peel, 
cut into pieces of about an inch, and weigh. To 
each 3 lbs. of fruit add the juice and very finely cut 
rind of a lemon. To each lb. of fruit add i lb. of 
loaf sugar. Put all in a large basin and let it 
stand all night. Next day take out the fruit, put 
the syrup in a pan and boil hard for about half an 
hour, taking oiT all scum. Add the marrow and 
boil till the jam looks quite clear. 

APPLE JELLY 

Apples Sugar 

Cloves or Cinnamon Water 

Windfalls do M^ell for making jelly. Wipe the 
fruit, divide in quarters, cut out the core and any 
bruises, but do not peel. Put the apples in a pre- 
serving pan, just cover with water; add a piece of 
cinnamon, or a few cloves. Simmer slowly till the 
apples are all quite soft. vScald a jelly bag, tie it 
to the backs of two chairs (in a warm place) or to 

207 



THE ONE MAID BOOK OF COOKERY 

the rail of the gas cooker and a chair; put a basin 
underneath. Put the apple pulp slowly into the 
bag with a small cup, and let it stand till no more 
juice runs out. Measure the juice. To each pint 
allow I lb. of sugar, and put into a clean bright 
pan. Boil quickly, carefully taking off all scum. 
When the jelly turns red and boils quietly, try a 
little on a plate (see directions). When it jellies, 
take the pan off the fire and put the jelly into small 
glass jars, filling up to the top. (See Apple Cheese.) 

APPLE CHEESE 

Take the pulp left in the jelly bag (see Apple 
Jelly) ; rub it lightly through a wire sieve with a 
wooden spoon, scraping the sieve occasionally to 
remove the skins. Weigh, to each lb. of pulp take 
% lb. of sugar. Add the grated rind and juice of 
a lemon to ever3^ 3 or 4 lbs. Put all in a pan and 
boil quickly, stirring all the time, till a little cooled 
on a plate will set. As the fruit is ready cooked, 
the cheese is quickly made. Put it in straight pots 
or moulds. The Apple Cheese can be turned out 
when wanted. 

GOOSEBERRY JELLY 

Cut off the tops and stalks of green gooseberries, 
and wipe the fruit with a cloth. Make as Apple 
Jelly, but leave out the spice. The jelly will be a 
bright red. (See Gooseberrj^ Cheese.) 

GOOSEBERRY CHEESE 

Make as Apple Cheese with the fruit pulp left 

208 



JAMS AND JELLIES 

over from the jelly; flavour with lemon. The 
cheese will be a bright green when ready, and 
should be put in small moulds or cups. (See Goose- 
berry Jelly.) 

MARMALADE 

Large Seville Oranges 12 Loaf or Crystal Sugar, 
Water, 12 pints 12 lbs. 

Wipe the fruit clean and cut in halves, across 
the core. Rub the oranges on a glass squeezer and 
remove all the pips. Cut the peel (on a clean chop- 
ping board) in thin slices; or cut roughly, as 
preferred. Put the peel in large basins, cover with 
the measured water and soak all night. Take a 
pint of the measured water^ cover all uncut pips 
and let that also stand. Early next morning put 
the peel and water, the juice and strained water 
from the pips in a pan, and simmer very gently 
till the peel is soft; this may take three or four 
hours, according to the quantity and heat. Slip 
in the warmed sugar and boil very quickly, stirring 
all the time, and removing all scum. When the 
marmalade looks clear and bright, try a little on a 
plate; it is ready when it jellies. 

This recipe is, to each orange i pint water and 
I lb. sugar, but the oranges must be large, other- 
wise count 3 oranges as 2. 



209 



INDEX 



»» 
ft 
»» 
$> 

»y 
it 
tt 



Apples, Fritters 

Dumplings 
Pie . . 
Pudding 
Cheese 
Jelly . 
Sauce 
Stewed 
A.ngels Food 

„ on Horseback 
Angelica . . . 
Anchovy Sauce . 
„ Butter 
,, Fingers 
Artichokes, Green 

„ Jerusalem 

,, Soup 

Asbestos Mat 
Asparagus 

Baking . . 
„ Powder 
Basting . . 
Bacon, Boiled 
,, Fried . 
Barley Water 
Batter for frying 
,, Pancake 
„ Pudding Baked 
,, Pudding,Steamed 
Beetroot 
Beef . . 
„ Boiled 
Roast 
Fillets 
Mince 



t) 
If 
ft 



134 
159 
-59 
159 
208 
207 
no 
143 
145 
118 

138 

108 

120 

119 

97 

91 

42 

14 
97 

28 
30 

29 
68 
123 
203 
53 
133 
132 

133 
go 
62 

67 

64 

72 

188 



Beans, Broad 

,, French . 

,, Butter 

,, Haricot . 

,, and Ham 
Beignets Souffles 
Biscuits to keep 
„ Oatmeal 
„ Shrewsbury 
,, Savoury 
Black Game . . . 
Blackberry, Cream 

,, Salad 

Black Currants, Stewed 
Blancmange 
Bloaters 
Boiling . . 
Bone to 
Braising 
Bread to make 

,, Vienna 

,, Sauce 

„ Fried 

„ Crisps 

,, Crumbs 

Breakfast Rolls 

Broiling . , 



Creams 



Brown Sauce 
Brown Bread 
Butter 

„ Melted . . . 

„ Maitre d'Hotel 

Cabbage, to Boil . 
„ Soup . . 
Cakes, to make 



96 

95 

99 

99 

95 

136 

199 

180 

180 

120 

84 
139 
145 
144 
130 

60 

31 
61 

33 
164 
166 
no 
196 
197 
197 
167 

30 
109 

139 

16 

107 

107 

92 

43 
170 



211 



INDEX 



Cakes to Ice . . . 


. 181 


Coralline Pepper . . 


Calves, Sweetbread 


• 75 


Cold Fruit Pudding . 


„ Liver . . 


• 73 


Coffee, to make . . 


Caper Sauce . ^ . 


. 108 


Coffee Cake . . 177 


Caramel .... 


39 


Corn, Green . . . . 


Carrots, Old . . . 


. 88 


Crecy Soup . . . . 


„ New . . . 


. 89 


Cream, to Whip . . 


„ Soup . . 


42 


Creams 


Carmine .... 


> 131 


„ Horns . . . 


Carraway Seeds 


. 174 


Croquettes . . . . 


Casseroles .... 


. 21 


„ French . . 


Castle Puddings 


. 178 


Custard 


Cauliflower, Boiled 


• 93 


„ Baked . . . 


,, French 


■ 93 


„ Coconut . . . 


,, Au Gratit] 


I 93 


Curry Meat . . . . 


Celery, Boiled . . 


96 


Currants, to clean . . 


„ Sauce . . . 


. 108 


„ Jam . . . 


Charlotte Russe 


. 140 


Cutlets, Egg . . . . 


Chestnut Soup . . 


44 


,, Durham . . 


,, Forcemeat 


112 


„ Lamb . . . 


Cheese Pudding 


116 


„ Lobster . . 


,, Aigrettes 


116 


„ Mutton . . 


Cheese Omelette 


126 


„ Veal . . . 


„ Straws . . 


117 


„ Duchess . . 


Cherry Mould . . 


131 


,, Russian . . 


Chicken to choose . 


• 17 




,, Boiled . . 


79 


D.\TE Pudding . . . 


„ Broth . . 


46 


Devil a 


„ Braised . . 


78 


„ Sauce . . . . 


,, Roast . . 


78 


Devilled Bones . . . 


„ Salad . . 


. 104 


,, Roes . . . 


„ Croquettes 


190 


„ Whitebait 


Chops 


76 


,, Biscuits . . 


Chocolate Cakes . 177 


,179 


Dried Meat . . . . 


„ Mould . . 


131 


„ Fish . . . . 


Icing . . 


182 


„ Vegetables . . 


„ Sauce . . . 


114 


Dripping 


Claret Jelly . . . 


142 


,, to Cream 


Cod, Boiled . . . 


54 


,, to Clarify 


„ Grilled . . . 


59 


Duck, Roast . . . . 


Coconut Cakes . 174 


, 177 


„ Wild . . . . 


Cocoa ..... 


201 


Dutch, Sauce . . . . 


Colander .... 


92 


Dumplings, Apple . . 


Consomme . . . 


40 




Colcannon .... 


• 194 


Eggs^ to Choose . . 



16 



212 



INDEX 



Eggs to Whip . . . 


• 173 


Fruit, Stewed 


• 


. 142 


„ to Cook . . 


, 122 


,, Puddings 


• 144 


„ Sauce . . . 


. 108 


„ Pies .... 


159 


Egg and Breadcrumb 


• 52 


„ Cakes . . . 


173 


Earthenware dishes 


. 21 


,, Tinned . . . 


• 199 


Earthenware Pans 


. 21 


„ Tarts . . . 


. 161 


Essences, Flavouring 


. 26 


„ Salads . . 105 


> 144 






Fritters 


• 134 


Fat, for Frying . . 


. 35 


„ Fruit . . 


• 134 


,, Temperature of 


• 35 


„ German 


• 134 


„ to Cream . . 


. 147 


,, Meat . . . 


. 192 


„ to Render . . 


. 37 


Fry, to 


. 36 


„ to Strain . . 


. 35 


„ Basket . . 


. 36 


„ to Clarify . . 


. 37 


„ Spoon . . 


. 36 


Fowl, to Choose 


• 77 


„ Pan . . . 


• 36 


„ „ Boil . . 


. 79 


Frying, Dry . . . 


• 37 


,, ,, Roast 


. 78 


„ French 


• 34 


„ „ Braise 


. 78 


„ Fat . . . 


• 35 


Fold in, to . . 138 


, 173 


„ Batter . 


• 53 


Fondant, Icing . . 


182 






Forcemeat .... 


. 112 


Game 


77 


„ Chestnut 


. 112 


„ Black . . . 


84 


Fillets, Beef . . . 


. 72 


Garnish for Fish 


53 


„ Russian 


186 


„ „ Creams 


138 


Fish, to Choose . . i 


6,49 


,, ,, Salads 


lOI 


„ „ Skin . . . 


49 


Gill ^4 Pint Measure . 




„ „ Bone . . . 


49 


Gingerbread . . . . 


175 


,» „ Boil . . . 


50 


Gooseberry Fool . . . 


141 


„ ,, Steam . . . 


51 


„ Cheese . . 


208 


„ „ Bake . . . 


51 


Pie . . . 


159 


„ „ Fry ... . 


51 


Jelly . . 


208 


„ „ Grill . . , 


59 


Greens 


92 


„ „ Egg & Bread- 




Green Vegetables . . 


91 


crumb . . 


52 


,, Artichokes . . 


97 


„ Balls 


192 


„ Corn . . . . 


97 


„ Cakes . . . . 


193 


„ Peas 




95 


„ vScolloped . . . 


193 


Gravies . . 




III 


French Beans . . . 


95 


Glaze . . . 




III 


„ Cauliflower 


93 


Grill, to . . 




30 


„ Croquettes 


190 


Grilled bones 




186 


Pie ... . 


154 


Grouse . . . 




83 


Fruit, to Choose . . 


17 


Guinea Fowl . 




So 


„ Dry, to Clean . 


170 






„ Creams . . . 


138 


Ham 


32 


„ Fools . . . . 


141 


„ with Beans . . . 


95 




21 


'^ 







INDEX 



Ham, Toast . 
Haddock, Fresh 

,, Dried 

Halibut . . . 
Hare, Roast . 
Hare, Stewed . 
Haricots . . 

„ Soup 
Herrings, Fried 

„ Grilled 

Soused 



Icing, Royal . 
„ Fondant 
„ French 
,, Vienna 

Irish Stew . . 

Italian Soups . 



it 



Jams 

Jam Sandwich 

Sauce . . . 
Tart . . . 

„ Tartlets . . 
Jellies, Fruit . . 
Jelly, Claret . . 

„ Lemon . . 
Jerusalem Artichokes 
Junket .... 
Julienne Soup . . 



Kedgeree . • . 
Kidneys, Grilled 
,, Stewed 

Kippers . . . . 



Lamb .... 

,, Boiled . 

„ Braised . 

„ Cutlets . 

„ Roast 

,, Sweetbreads 
IvCmonade . . 
Ivcmon Cake . 

„ Jelly . 



119 

54 
60 

54 
82 

83 
99 
45 
56 
60 

58 

181 
182 
182 
182 

71 

41 

204 
179 

113 

161 

162 
207 
142 
141 

91 

128 

41 

193 
76 
70 
60 

62 

66 

72 

73 

65 

74 
202 
179 
141 

21 



Lemon Sponge . 

„ Syrup . 

Lemco .... 

Liver, Fried . . 

,, Stewed 
Lobster Cutlets . 
au (Tratin 
Salad 
Soup 



ft 



Mackerel, Fried 
„ Grilled 

,, Soused 

Maccaroni Cheese 

„ au Gratin 
,, Pudding 
Madeira Cake . . 
Marmalade . . . 
,, Pudding 

Marrow 

,, vSoup . . . 
„ Stuffed . . 
„ Jam . . . 
Marmite . . . . : 
Maitre d 'Hotel Butter 
Mayonnaise Dressing 
,, Salmon 

,, Sauce 

Medici Biscuits 
Meat, to Choose 
,, Fritters 
,, Patties 
,, Pasty 
„ Pies . 
,, Salad 
Melted Butter 
Milk . . . 

„ Puddings 
Mincemeat . 
,, beef . 
Mint Sauce . 
Minnestrone Soup 
Mock Turtle Soup 
Mould Cherry 

Chocolate 



142 

202 
39 I 
73' 
70 

57 , 

57^1 
103 ■ I 

48 

i 
56' 
59^ 
58^ 
115' 
115. 
129 ♦ 
176! 
209 
15S 
96 

43 
187 
206 

I, 39 
107 
102 
104 
no 
120 

6, 61 
192 
153 
154 

151 
104 
107 
201 
129 

113 
188 
no 

45 

46 

131 

131 



INDEX 



Mulligatawny Soup 
Mushrooms . . 

,, with Bacon 

Mutton . . . 

,, Roast . 

„ Boiled 

„ Broth . 

„ Cutlets 

,, Chops . 

„ Stewed 
Hash . 



Nut Sandwiches 

Oatmeal Porridge 

,, Biscuits 
Onion, Baked . 
„ Boiled . 
,, Sauce . 
,, Soup . 
,, Stewed 
Omelette Savoury 
,, Sweet 
„ Souffle 

Orange Cake . . 177 
Icing 
„ Salad 
,, and Rhubarb 
Oxtail, Stewed 
„ Soup . 
Oyster Sauce . 
„ Soup . 
„ Patties 

Palette Knife 
Panada . . . 
Paisley Flour . 
Parsley, to Chop 

„ to Fry 

„ Butter 

,, Sauce 
Parsnips . . 
Pastry . . . 
Short . 
Flaky . 



» 



47 Pastry Puff . 

97 „ Suet 

98 ,, Fingers 
62 Pasty Meat 

65 Patties, Meat 

66 Patna Rice 

46 Pearl Barley 
73 Peas, Green 
76 „ Dried 
70 „ Soup 

187 ,, and Bacon 
Pheasant, Roast . 

183 ,, Boiled 

,, Braised 

203 Pigeon, Roast 

180 Pies, Meat . . 
90 ,, Fruit 

89 Pistache Kernels 
108 Piquante Sauce 

42 Plaice . . . 

90 Plum Jam . . 
126 ,, Pudding 
137 Poached Eggs . 
136 Porridge . . 
179 Pork, to Choose 
182 „ Roast 
104 „ Boiled . 
143 „ Chops . 

68 Potatoes, Old 

68 „ New 

108 ,, Steamed 

47 ,, Snow 
155 „ Soup 

„ Mashed 

181 „ Mould 

109 ,, Baked 
164 ,, au Gratin 
120 ,, Fried . 

98 ,, Buttered 

120 Potato Balls . 

107 ,, Pie . . 

90 ,, Rissoles 

147 ,, Salad . 

149 ,, Soup . 

149 Puddings, Batter 



15I: 



44 



150 
156 
163 

153 

153 

191 

46 

95 

99 

, 45 

95 

83 

83 

83 

80 

152 

159 
181 
109 

55 
206 
163 
122 
203 

63 
66 
81 
76 
86 
88 
S6 
86 
42 
86 

87 

87 

195 

194 

194 

S7 
187 
190 
103 

41 
132 



215 



INDEX 



^ 



Puddings, Castle 
Cheese 
Fruit . 
Meat . 
Milk . 
Plum 
Suet . 



178 
116 

159 
157 

129 

163 

158 



Sandwiches, Savoury 

121, 183 



Rabbit, Boiled . . . 


81 


„ to Cut up . . 


81 


„ Pie ... 


153 


„ Pudding . . 


157 


Ragout . . 


81 


Raisin Pudding . . 


158 


Raspberry Cream . 


138 


Jam . . 


205 


,, Salad 


145 


Rennet 


128 


Rhubarb Fool . . 


141 


„ to Stew . 


143 


„ Jam . . . 


. 206 


Rice, to Boil . . . 


191 


,, Pudding . ^. 


129 


„ Savoury . . 


116 


Rissoles 


. 189 


Rock Buns .... 


174 


Roast, to .... 


28 


„ Meat . . . 


64 


,, Birds . . . 


78 


Roly Poly .... 


158 


Root Vegetables 


85 


Royal Soup . . . 


41 


„ Icing . . . 


181 


Russian Cutlets . . 


186 


Fillets . . 


186 


,, Salad . . 


103 



Sabayon Sauce 
Salads . . . 
„ Chicken 
„ Dressing 
„ Fruit . 
,, Meat 
Salt Meat . . 



. . 114 
. . 100 
. . 104 
loi, 102 
104, 144 
. . 104 
. . 32 
2 



183 ; 
120 

53 ^ 

104 5 

106 ': 
113 \ 

64 :' 

154 
118 
120 
59 
193 
125 
168 

151 

96 
108 

48 
180 

60 

83 



„ Sweet 

Sardine Fingers . 119 
Salmon, Boiled 

,, Mayonnaise 
Sauces, Savoury 

,, Sweet 
vSausages, Fried 
„ Rolls 

Savouries Hot . 115 

Cold 
Scallops . . . 
Scolloped fish . 
Scotch Eggs . 
Scones . . . 
Seasoned Plour 
Sea Kale . . 
Shrimp Sauce 
,, Soup 
Shrewsbury Cakes 
Smoked Fillets 
Snipe . . . 
Sole, to cook in the 

oven .... 54 

„ Fry 55 

„ Fillets ... 54, 55 

„ au Gratin ... 58 

Soups . . . . 39 to 48 

,, Clear .... 40 

SouiSe Lemon . . . 135 

„ Omelette . . . 136 

,, Vanilla . . . 136 

Spatula 21 

Spaghetti 46 

Spinach 94 

,, Croutes ... 94 
Soup ... 43 

Sprats 57 

Sprouts 93 

Sponge Cakes . . . 178 

Strawberry Cream . . 138 

„ Jam . . 205 

Steam, to 33 

Steamer 33 

16 



INDEX 



vStewing . . 
Stock, to Make 

„ a good 
Stew, Irish 
Steak, Grilled 

„ Stewed 
Pie 

,, Pudding 
Stewed Fruit . 
Suet Paste . . 

„ Pudding 
Sweetbreads, Calves' 

,, Lamb 

Swiss Roll . . . 
Syrup, a . . . 

Tapioca Pudding 
Tartare Sauce . 
Tarts, Fruit . 
Tea .... 
Toast . . . 
Tomato . . . 

„ au Gratin 

„ Jam . 

,, Soup . 

„ Toast . 
Tinned Food . 
Treacle, to weigh 

„ Tart . 

,, Pudding 
Turkey, Roast 

,, Boiled 
Turnips . . . 
Turnovers . . 



O^} 



34 
39 
40 

71 

75 
69 

151 

157 
143 
156 
158 
75 
74 
179 

143 

129 
III 
161 
200 
196 
98 
98 
206 

43 
119 
198 

173 
160 

158 

79 
80 

89 
162 



Utensils (Kitchen) . . 19 



Veal . . . 
Roast . 
Boiled 
Stewed 
Braised 
Cutlets 
Pie 
Velvet Cream 

,, Soup 
Vegetables, Green 
Root 
to Boil 
Entrees 
Mould 
Soups 
Vermicelli Soup . 

,, Pudding 

Victoria Sandwich 
Vienna Bread . . 
„ Icing . . 
Vol au Vent . . 

Walnut Cakes . 

Washing up . . 
Water .... 

Whitebait . . . 

White Sauce . . 

Wild Duck . . . 
Woodcock . . 

Yeast, German 



63 
65 

67 
70 

71 

74 
152 
140 

45 
17, 91 
17, 85 

• 91 

• 195 

• 195 
. 195 
. 46 
. 129 
. 178 
. 166 
. 182 

• 155 



177 

22 

20c 

107 
84 
83 



. 164 



217 



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